Cuong Nguyen
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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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Felt like painting the last bit of my bumper brackets. I still need to grind a but to clear the radiator support. I have enough squeaking as it is already so I don't need more. I also am prepping for the 90A alternator swap. My 70 Amp pulley doesn't clear the alternator and will require me to shave the casing or the pulley where it necks down. I'll have to hold off on getting the 150A in for now.
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Welcome back! There's a few old timers here and we even got Mr. Reverse back over here with the closing of 4x4parts forum whenever that was.
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Sorry to hear and it's understandable how life whizzes on by.
I'd be interested in the A Pillar and snorkel but it's probably not worth the shipping for me.
Best of Luck to you!
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Looking good!
I've always liked those style of wheels.
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Forgot I have my fsm somewhere so I'll give that a read. Harbor freight has tools for this job from last I checked.
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For those that have ever tackled the job on their own, did yall replace the rubber trim strip/sealer (72811) at the top or went without it? I developed rust behind it which I plan on fixing when I get to it...
Also, anyone know what PN 72616 is? it just says Dam Rubber Sealant. Is that just dealer lingo for the sealant they use to mount the windshield?
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Looks like an engine oil leak. I'd clean it up to find the trace if you haven't already. Other option could be power steering leak too but leaning towards engine oil.
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On 2/24/2020 at 12:54 AM, RCWD21 said:
Thanks! And we'll see for sure. The pins are definitely different quality but I've had decent luck with the dorman brand quick service parts. My only gripe is how fragile the bushings are lol
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I totally agree.
I emailed Doorman about them and they sent me extra sets for free. I ended ordering the stock bushings.
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On 2/22/2020 at 10:20 AM, onespiritbrain said:
Replaced TPS with a brand new OEM part.
Update:
The improvements listed above are definitely there. I also notice that it no longer stays in 3rd gear when taking off from a rolling stop which would cause very poor acceleration.
In general, the vehicle drives much better. I am still a little slow taking off from red lights and such compared to newer cars around me but there are a lot of instances where I have the power I need to drive normally with traffic because the transmission selects the correct gear for acceleration.
A heap of confidence has returned!
Wow, you're the first person aside myself who experienced this problem! Too bad I have not been following the forum for a bit otherwise I would have told you so. I learned not too long ago about The TPS after doing a lot of studying the TCM schematics and deduced it to the TPS. What happens is the contacts wear in the general area where the throttle sits a lot (cruising) so so throws voltage spikes to the TCM.
OEM is where to go with the TPS. I used a cheap aftermarket and the fitment is poor.
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Nice! I know the work involved since I did the same to a set of heads many years ago!
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Pull the pump through the back hatch. My pathfinder sat and rust ate my fuel pump and clogged the fuel filter, leaving me stranded and had to get my truck out the impound.
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Sweet deal! Good luck and take your time.
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Didnt quite think the thing through but it is a work in progress and build as you go type deal. Trying to strengthen the wings so i can lift from it.
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Find a good donor transmission or have it rebuilt is your best bet unfortunately.
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I imagine it is. I see the same thing when i turn on my headlights lol.I went with the last design and it’s working. I am very happy with the improved air conditioner performance.
I do have to say that with the AC on full blast and the fan on high speed, it seems like I actually have less power than before. It’s not much so it might just be me but I can’t discern any extra power whatsoever.
I wonder if the increased power draw on the alternator is causing a noticeable increase in mechanical resistance.
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Welcome! We are a different breed here!
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Tell him he can pound sand.
Lol.
Have you ever been in a front end collision or see any evidence of such? My 93 originally had a copper radiator but most are now aluminum.
Make sure your condenser and radiator fins are clean and not clogged up. Home depot has some type of coil/fin cleaner for home HVAC units but i do not knoe if it's snake oil to try. Cheap but wouldn't hurt. A gentle stream from the garden hose will work too if you do not have mud clogging it up. Make sure the fins are straight. Take care to bend then straight with a small thin flathead or similar tool.
Stock use to have foam filter guides to "seal" the sides of the condenser and radiator so the fan can efficiently pull air through the fan shroud without air leak. You can use aluminum tape or rubber gasket liner from home depot as a replacement. All this is to ensure maximum efficiency of the stock mechanical fan.
When you press the ac switch and turn on the fan dies the clutch engage? If not check to make sure the single wire plug is hooked up to the compressor. It follows the distributor harness to the side. Plugged and not frayed or broken check to see if you have pressure in the line. If it is too low or too high, the compressor clutch will not engage.
Check to make sure your high and low pressure lines do not have cracks.
Get yourself a recharge kit and follow directions.
When it gets up to pressure the compressor will kick on but if you have air in the lines, it will-over pressurised and the compressor clutch will disengage to prevent an explosion.
The auto parts store has rental vacuum pumps and manifold gauges. Even harbor freight if you want to buy. Use their coupons if you do.
Also keep in mind there is a ratio of oil for so many oz of refrigerant. You do not want to overoil.
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The distances should be relatively the same for both sides. Was the caster issue related to the side with little space between the bump stop?What is your alignment numbers? There were some arms (welded badly but cannot remember the brand) that caused funny alignment issues.
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Removing the shim will help with the positive camber. When you crank up the torsion bars it lift the front which pulls the tierods in closer giving you neg toe.
You can do a diy alignment to get thr alignment closer to spec until get it professionally done.
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Rust holes on top windshield...still need to replace windshield too so I'll deal with the leak or don't drive it on raining days.
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Had a couple hours to lay some booger welds.
May need to reinforce the stock bumper bracket for more rigidity or leave it as-is for a failsafe.
Using 3/16 plate.
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Lift it some more and it will get rid of some of thr positive camber. Cut down the bumpstop until youre new low profiles come in. Drive around a bit with sandbags or weight in the back to help the springs settle in the rear.
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Nope. Never did the relay mod as I did not have issues with starting back then. I may just pull the starter out and take it apart to inspect and clean. I switched back over to a remote oil filter so it's a possibility with the oil spills gunking it up.
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Lately, I have been having this random no start issues. I turn the key to start and do not get any clicking or anything. Lights do not dim. Nothing. Then after a few tries after a wait it turns over like nothing happened.
Any ideas as to what all I need to check first before looking for a replacement starter?
Alternator tested good and same with battery. 93 Automatic.
VG34ER
in The Garage
Posted
progress is progress!