Cuong Nguyen
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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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That's some sweet bling
Finished up another set of lowers
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Check your AT oil temp sensor and wiring If it doesn't warm up or senses it is warmed up, it will not shift into overdrive.....memory is hazy but it sounds logical at the moment.
Also is the OD switch hooked up? I am not sure if it disconnected will display or not on the instrument cluster.
Are you able to read any codes from the TCU? I have yet to be able to get any codes from my TCU through diagnostics.
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I am assuming you reused your crankshaft? if show, when you removed it you should have stampings/and or color paint codes to indicate the original sizes used for your bearings. (edit) just reread and saw you're going the VG30 crank.
Generally you get a reman crank, they're old crankshafts are turned down with oversized bearings to match. Did you check clearances when you installed the new bearings on the crank? that will tell you what size you will need.
You buy the oil pump that matches the crankshaft, oil pick up tube and oil plan. I have a few bearings laying around from two rebuilds but they won't do you any good if you do not know what size you need.
I purchased them through RockAuto but you can look at Ebay and Amazon as well.
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It's attached to the power steering bracket. 12mm
One thing missing and I can't see how it's attached. The metal tube between the lower rad hose and the tstat housing is attached to the engine but I can't see where and how. Vg30 1995 wd21. Thanks
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Rust around the windshield and roof. No time to fix it. Truck's been parked for some time now.
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Ebay. The ones for hardbodies should work.
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Is it just gear versus rpm dependent?
RPM dependent would probably translate to a possibly worn U-joint in the driveshaft.
Is it possibly to get a video or sound clip of the growl?
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Sorry, I didn't realize that you posted an old photo of the other motor that went.
From what I can tell it looks ok. Did the piston get pushed passed the ring lands? If it did, I would be worried about bent valves possibly. If you did not, you can push it back down using a wooden dowel rod through # 2 spark plug hole. I'd be worried about a bent rod possibly.
I replaced the bottom end under the truck, but I have a solid axle front front. It was still kind of difficult with limited tools.
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bad old fuel?
Make sure your tank isn't rusted.
Replace fuel filter too.
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That' journal is toast.
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We're you able to figure it out? I took a lot of pics of my teardown on photobucket which you can access. You just have to directly go to the link.
Foaming is not good but it looks like that's due to the busted input shaft o ring you found. Your atf looks like there's water contamination.
Did you check the solenoids? How are they? Be advise a couple of them are pulse width solenoids and not your typical on off type.
The larger bits of clutch material look like it came from the band. Your issue sounds band related possibly. It also could be an o ring or seal is damaged and it's not sealing properly when pressure builds up.
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I found them on line
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I think I have extras from another build, used though if you want them.
I couldn't find them on either of these sites. Anyone have any other ideas, or a part number, or a link to a listing? Or even just the specs?
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Cruise control issue is typically the little plastic knubbies under the dash above the brake pedal that depresses the switch to override the cruise control. That brakes and cancels cruise all the time. if your brake light is constantly one that is the reason too since there's two plastic thing. one for each switch.
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You could just remove the starter and see what's binding, that way you can rule out starter or transmission at the same time at the expense of sweating, swearing, and bloody knuckles.
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New Quest alternator came in only to find out it's damaged. Plug was broken but usable and the stator is either bent or a bearing is tweaked as it doesn't spin freely and catches on one side. I ordered off Ebay if you're wondering. The generic printout that came with it says it makes 94A at 1.5k, 153A at 2.5k, and 178A at 6k RPM (alternator and not engine speed). Alternator turn on speed is 1567 rpm.
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Sorry I'm not seeing what you mean.
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talk about puzzling. Might as well replace the booster check valve too lol.
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The 94+ used an electronic speed sensor and pre 94 were mechanical. You need the 94+ speed sensor to have a functioning speedometer.
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94+ VGs switched to a different oil pump and corresponding TC and I recall somewhere that the VQs--not sure which exactly had a larger TC and the input shaft length was different. Someone may have posted this information here or somewhere in the Facebook page.
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On 7/9/2018 at 12:28 AM, Slartibartfast said:
I'll have to give this a go in mine once I get it back on the road. Where are you holding the phone to take a reading?
I have the phone at ear level while driving. I also plan on placing it all the footwells, transmission tunnel/t-case shifter, and headliner area behind my head to get a base line.
On 7/13/2018 at 2:53 PM, adamzan said:Where the phone is will make a big difference. On my way back from Halifax I rode in the back of mine and it is quieter back there.
Only place I find mine loud is the door seals and wind noise. Otherwise it is fine.
My door seals have shrunk and I've been just filling in the gap with sealant. I'll use black this time instead of the red.
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I'm am just getting a feel of how it is inside for other people with different mods. I downloaded an app on my android phone called Sound Meter. They have it for IOS users as well.
93 Nissan Pathfinder XE
Cloth interior
4x4
33x10.50 BFG MTs
2.25" exhaust with generic performance muffler
Windows up
78-82 dB cruising at 70 mph without music on smooth road.
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9 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Looks like a good way to go. I added some raammat to my roof when I had the truck torn apart, but I didn't really live with the truck beforehand (and the truck before it was white) so I don't know if it's helping much. One thing I noticed, though, was that the roof ribs had come unglued from the sheet metal, so I reglued those with seam sealer before putting it back together. This was more about noise than heat but worth taking a look at while you've got it open.
It's a win-win if I can knock down two birds with one stone. The heat is tolerable but the noise is unbearable. It doesn't help either that I have developed an exhaust leak on the passenger side header.
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Revisiting this again. I need to do some body work on the roof since I have rust issues around the windshield and holes I have to patch from the stock roof rack.
Thinking about installing this to the roof:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-48-in-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-BP48025/
then I just found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-75-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11475/100656747
which I believe is what GrimGreg used. I read the reviews and a lot of folks used this for sound deadening which is also what I was looking for.
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kick down not working right. poss electrical help diagram needed
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I am not familiar with later model TPS's but is the position of the sensor adjustable on the TB?
Some aftermarket TPS are bad out of the box so it may take a couple to find a good one.
Seeing that you are OBD2 you should be able to pull codes and pinpoint from there.
Do you notice any changes with OD on and off?
Have you verified fluid temp?