MY1PATH

After I build my 3.3 I will see what things look like... Most likely I will be packing up to move to SoCal. Sorry folks, it was always my intention to do 5 or 10 of these but I never got around to it. I should have my own garage at my new place so projects will hopefully flow more freely.

That's exacly how I did it. the measurement is to the center of the belt (not to the edge of the gear) because the belt centerline is how far out the radius goes. I measured the gears in metric but .050" is 1.27mm. 1.27x0.928= 1.17856 degrees (ouside of belt stretches inside of belt shrinks, center says consistant lenght relative to a bend.) I wil have pictures and details on my thread once I start one. I hope to have before and after Dyno's so folks know what a 3.3 is worth compared to a stock 3.0.

SCHOOL! lol they taught me that 360 divided by the circumfrence (belt centerline arround the gear) gives you distance traveled per degree.

87-04 pathy, pickup, or xterra. Basically if its 4x4 MT and got a VG3x you're good. Some 2wd will work too but I'm not sure about the older 2wd.

The cam timing can be left alone, Like I said 1.17 Degrees will not be noticeable. Ignition timing (because the dizy runs off the cam) will be corrected simply by rotating the dizy. When you start getting closer to 1.5 deg I'd reccomend adjustable cam gears and if you keep going towards 2 deg you are certainly going to feel it but it may or may not be right where you want it. Typically when you increase Compression ratio you decrease timing (3deg per 1CR point is a starting point, fine tune from there) because the mixtre expands more rapidly but stock VG tune has conservative timings to begin (many people advance a stock engine 3-6 degrees) with so setting the ignition timing to stock should be just fine.

Tungsten, lets not forget I have done LOTS of research in this and it WILL BE RELIABLE. The valve reliefs in 3.3 pistons is more than you could possibly need for any type of cam or timing change etc... The timing will NOT be thrown off completely, It will be retarded 1.17 degrees. this will slightly improve highway driving slightly but there is so much else going on with my engine (higher compression, euro cam, bigger pistons, heavier flywheel, Cleaned up exhaust ports) That you are not going to notice an difference in timing. You may not be a fan of it and that's fine. It can still be done and it can still be done safely. James, your right, I meant .050" The stock Gasket is .050" compressed and I did an assembly without the gasket to check everything for fit. The only things that needed attention were the timing belt tensioner maxing out and being just barely tight enough and the intake ports mismatching slightly which can be corrected by using 3.0 gaskets instead of 3.3 gaskets. About .070" can be removed from the head in a vg33, you are more at danger of cutting up the valve seats when you machine it you are of hitting the 3.3 pistons with the valves. I do not know what else mismatches @ .070" but your timing retard will be roughly 1.65 degrees and you will start wanting to use cam gears to correct that. The formula is 0.928deg cam retard per 1mm of head reduction.

That's the best way to get me really, I don't come here very often anymore and the only emails I consitantly get are PM notifactaions. Thread tracking is hit and miss with my stupid email. You can also try my Email, I think I have it on there... Just remind me who you are if you do that.

MR510's VG34 is running TBI and it handles hills just fine. I can only expect more for an MPFI vg34. It that is out of your budget you can do a "simple" 3.3 swap like I am. remember to swap over your 3.0 cams into the 3.3 heads (3.3 cams are the weak) If you are well connected you may be able to get some Nissan Euro spec cams for 50-100 a stick (nissan wants to liquidate them) These came stock in the european 3.0 and provide 10 extra ponies for Higway driving (15+ if you put them in a 3.3). If you decide to shave .50" off your head while your at it you will be getting sligtly more involved AND I will have to call you a coppy cat... (I'll have results to share with everyone in about a month.) But if you beat me too it, you need to modify your t-belt tentioner to take up more slack or your belt will not get tight enough. VG=Reliable Nissan used VG engines in cars and trucks for 20 years! Change your oil, keep your air filter clean and MIND YOUR TIMING BELT! and you will see 250-300k easy and it only goes up from there! The VQ engines have stepped rings and many of them start to lose compression and burn oil before 180k... (my first clutch lasted longer than that) VQ engines. The top ring is closer to the crown so they aloso have a reputation of blowing ringlands when pushed hard. These are the reasons I am not using vq30 pistons to build a vg36 stroker.

He builds VG's for a living. I think he was able to assemble and test to find out that stock relifs were more than what was needed. reliefs serve a secondary purpose of acheiving a target compression ratio so that the MFR can better acheive and emission standard. I think That's why the only 10:1 oem VG was an NA VG30DE with 4 valves per cyl, and 2 egr (one on each side), variable valve timing and a super computer for an ecu. (z32 ecu nissan's most advanced)

Their article http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1298/project-pathfinder-part-10-how-to-build-the-nissan-vg30e.aspx says from 9:1 (8.9 rounded up) to 9.6 "The Q piston domes must be slightly modified with notches for valve clearance. We had a local machine shop duplicate the VG’s valve notches on the Q pistons." They started with a VG33 block, they had the machine shop duplicate the (huge) reliefs in the vg33 pistons. If a VG33 pistons had the same cuts as the vg30 pistons they would be about 9.75:1. I think in MR510's build he cut reliefs samaller than you would find in the vg30 pistons.

In theroy, if you combined my headwork with a vg34 you would have 11.5:1 This would be kickass for an NA VG. Gee, maybe I sould do that next...

I accomplished this. My stick is TALLER and my Throw is shorter. here's how; 1) Make a spacer to go between the shifer plate and the transmission. Be mindful of how much room you have to go up. 1" and I could not get the foward bolt in because of the floor pan. 2) cut off the bottom of the shifter halfway between the ball and the white bushing 3) weld in a spacer that is the same height as the spacer in step one. 4) assemble with longer bolts You now have a shorter throw because the lever on the bottom side of the sift plate is longer but the lever on the top side is still the same height and is taller because of your spacer. I took aprox 3" off my throw using .75" spacers. I used aluminum for the shift plate but you could use a thick nylon cutting board or UHMW and not have to worry about sealant and gaskets.

stock vg is 8.9:1 MR510 built a vg34 and it came out to 10.3:1 I think some have been assembled with out cutting valve relifs (or not as deep) for 10.4:1 but they make it at etremely close tolernace. Float a valve and your done.

The size of the injector has less to do with compression ratio than you think. At arround 225HP your will start to run into limits with a pathfinder and those are yes, injectors due to RPM and displacement an running the injectors at a high duty cycle. but before that you fade out arround 200 hp because of the design of the MAF housing on the wagons and pickups. Both these numbers are quite a step up from the 150 hp and 180 hp vg30 and vg33. I am currently building a higer compression vg33, the cheap way; 0.050" will be taken off the heads and this will yeild a .5-.75 increase in compresson. (I'll have exact numbers once I get the head back and I can CC it) Compression does not make dramatic increase in HP like you would see above. One point in CR on a VG is worth maybe 4 HP. The real benifit is the flattening of the torque band (Feels faste lower sooner and longer) and increased thermal efficency (ability to turn heat into energy) Both of these offer enhanced driving experience and improved fuel econmy while keeping fairly close to the same HP numbers. Now If you are planning on going over 200HP I recomend switching to the N60 (m30 and maxima) MAF and using 270cc injectors. (If you do not have nistune or any way to tune MAF changes must be balanced with injector changes.) At this point your horsepower celing for air and fuel will be about 300 and Higer if you get into tuning. Upgraded MAF does not mean more fuel, it means Higer resolution reading of the air passing thru. So If the 270cc injectors are too rich with the N60 MAF then use the N62 MAF (z32 and Q45).

So your one heat range hotter and the -11 means it has a 1.1mm longer ground strap for a larger gap. There is no letter after the E so you are using a standard flat tip. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp147/goldstar1/ngk_sparkplug_symbol_key.gif

How am I supposed to ad photo's to the OP If I cannot edit?

WTF I CANT EDIT ANYTHING AFTER A CERTAIN TIME?!?! I am not liking this. Anyway, back on topic. Many cars switch to the pathy manifold, it is commonly considered to be the best VG manifold you can get. Kingman used the 300zx intake because that's what he had when he bought a whole 300zx engine and ECU. I suggested he use a pathy manifold and not cut his firewall but that's the way he wanted to do it. Then he modified his TBI harness to wire up his MPFI. I know right? how do 2 injectors become 6? The early 300zx was batch fire so 3 injectors would run of off each wire on the TBI harness.

I think you misread me. You CANNOT USE THE ER TPS. The purpose of this write up is to run a SUPERCHARGER using the stock 3.0 TPS Seems I can't edit the OP otherwise I would change the 2nd line to read more like this "The reason I cant run the ER TPS is because the ER TPS isn't compatible with the older electronics..."

This is cool, I figured out how to run the ER throttle body with the vg30 pathfinder Throttle Position Sensor.* The reason I cant run the ER TPS is because the ER TPS isn't compatible with the older electronics and the TB hole patterns don't match to swap the whole TB but I think the throttle shafts Happen to be the same length and diameter. All I have to do is 1) remove the ER throttle shaft (tuns TPS with a roll pin cross shaft) 2) machine down the TPS boss so its flush with the bearing 3) tap the screw holes deeper for the TPS (these the were shaved down too) 4) Install the Older style vg30 throttle shaft (turns TPS with flat spot on the shaft) 5) Re-install 60mm throttle plate; the older 3.0 shaft has a slot for wide enough to accept the ER throttle plate because Nissan used the same shaft for both 54mm and 60mm TB's found on vg30 and ka24. *the other method is to plug-weld the threaded holes on the supercharger intake and drill/tap new ones that match the 3.0 TPS. Hopefully, I will remember to come back with pictures of each step after I am done!

M30 is NisTune compatible, type 2 board which uses consult cable, I did the swap but it was from WD21 TBI to M30 MPFI I still haven't bought Nistune. I think Pathfinder ECU is also Nistune compatible but I think its a NisTune type 1 board which uses USB. I think I saw ONE in discussions; the guy had to send down under for them to map for compatibility. Chances are, since they did one, they saved the map and they can just send you an install kit w/o you sending it out. If you are bad at solder you can still send it out or have a local pro do it when the kit shows up. The pathfinder ecu shares allot of the refinements that made it and the m30 ECU so much better than the early z31 ecu's. If you already have MPFI I would call Nistune vs all the effort of wd21 MPFI to M30 MPFI

Either way works fine but My preferance is to use NGK V-Power (oem) for the 3.0 and you can actually gap them as far as .040 without any issues. You are running the 3.0 electrical and the 3.0 coil is actually stronger than the 3.3 coil. In general, all the 90's nissan coils (exept the vg33) were stronger than other brands OEM's.

FYI, I am doing the flywheel dance right now... >Factory PF flywheel should be about 23 lbs. A resurfaced factory flywheel will be 21-22 lbs. have one of these; 21 lbs, and I certainly felt the difference before and after but my wife did not. (she is not as in tune with the feel of a vehicle) SACHS New flywheel is 20 lbs. This will shorten your clutch life a little and hurt you a little on hilly traffic and towing. (best used in cars) ->Zoom Flywheels are 23 lbs and a very good option For stock replacement --->Brute Power Flywheels are 25 lbs and make a nice upgrade for towing, hilly traffic and pushing through mud/trails. It will help some for rock crawling but the best rock climbers are automatics. (This is what will be going into my wifes vg33+ AND my upcoming vg34er) There is a RARE 28 lb vg30 flywheel but I do not what it came on or where to find more. (maybe on the super rare flatbed duallie hardbodies? If you find one make sure to steal the full floater h233b as well) This would make the ultimate wheeling and towing flywheel.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="RedPath88" data-cid="650096" data-time="1357867355"><p> <br /> No go for NPORA at work? Bandwidth problem? If so try using the mobile theme (bottom left of any page), since it has less graphics (still shows posted images) it might be more usable </p></blockquote> <br /> bandwith is only a small part of the problem. Security protocols, and exessive nework restrictions make our access to the inernet about 10% of what a normal computer would<br /> see. But that may help some, thankyou

Was this a pre-order thing or are there some avaiable for people who didn't read the whole thread? I know, ... NPORA does not browse well at work.

You will see the same thing with both locked on the trail. Consider this; When one wheel is burried in low range that's allot of torqe to one shaft. with an lsd or an open that torque will cross over to the other side before you can grenade the CV. No such luck if you are welded or spooled.