MY1PATH

cap & rotor o2 sensor diff & tranny fluids if they need it. check all your steering components... I think everything else should make itself known when it needs changed.... that is if you pay attention to things like big changes in mpg, oil leaks & listen to it every day b4 you crank the stereo and drive away.

changing your lifters will stop that noise. but if you must swap the engine for more torque and same reliablilty I would get a 3.3 long block and put your tbi intake and sensors on it. changing lifters and putting OEM or re-condidoned 3.0 cams in (the 3.3 cam is smaller) provides for exellent trottle response with no loss in bottom end. "no loss in bottom end" as in off ilde power cannot be said for any other cam on the market.

save your 4wd for mud, dirt, gravel, snow and ice and you will not have this problem. You may aloso notice that in 4wd there is a coupling of the brakes (front wont lock up unless rear locks up) this is nice in low traction areas and you will lose this if you go to an inter-axle differantial. Inter-axle differentials are better for AWD street vehicles because on the trail they can turn you into a 1-wheel-drive.

x2 that thing on the right side of the picture make sounds like a perculator. and mine needs replaced!

Its really not that hard. I used to grab it from the top all the time. Before I put the headers in I relocted it to the trany x-member now its really easy and it doesn't drip or spill over anything when I change it.

or swap in a 3.3... 10% bigger 10% more power and even more if you use a 3.0 cam in the 3.3 head.

http://npora.ipbhost...53entry416253 There is also onother picture here with it on the vehcile. Hard to see but Its hard to see on the vehicle too. Hope this can be useful tool to you whenever you have a tbi question.

I belive the safts are differant lenghth. you are better off swaping out the 31 spline side gears into the new 3rd member. This is still easier than doing a full R&P swap.

MAKE SURE that you get an alty from a 90-95 pathfinder @ the very least. the pre-90's are 60amp and the '90-95 are 70amp. Some stores even have a 78amp for a '93. the higer ouput will be less demanding on the voltage regulator and the alty will last longer. All plugs and bolt up are the same.

belts and dry pulleys. Drip (don't spray) some oil on the pulleys and avoid getting any on the belts.

yes but for us USA & canada members if we want gears that low we can take the HG49 (4.93 ratio) front and rear out of R51's (frontys & x's)

that wire looks like the possible remenants of one of the following 4wd indicator (t-case has 2) reverse light neutral postion switch

sounds normal to me. 3k rpm @ 75mph in my 5spd

how tight did you get the power steering belt? some times old ones leak when a new belt is tighter than the old belt.

yes! reverse drills are nice too if you have a dirll motor that turns as well in reverse as it does foward.

Its all preference and how sharp the spirals are. I use the square ones for hollow screws and hex heads/set screws and I use some really cool stubby spiral ones that turn with a 1/2" wrench when I have to drill a hole. but I can tell you the glossy ones are tempered differant and more prone to shattering.

um isn't it 60k timing belt for his rig? there were square tooth and round tooth belts and I belive the olde square tooth belts were 60k

x2 check the data plate

it should Never break 15v!

you saw my math results, it doesn't add up. 3500 rpm to set it to charge means 7000 shaft rpm. thats just not right. In order to aqire that shaft speed @ idle you would need a .75 pulley (impossible) or a larger balancer(also not very likely to happen)

mine keeps up with all the other pathys in town. I do tuneups exessively changing plugs, wires, cap & rotor early and all @ the same time. I check the o2 sensor for deposits and check my MAF for dirt as well. I also do a seafoam treatment every spring (good smoke show) Its still slow but not depressing. What I really don't get is every now and then it gets really strong for about 10 min some times it'll chirp going into 2nd or break loose for a sec on wet road when I drop 3rd @ 50mph. Be nice if it was always that stong or stronger... But most the time I won't Ok maybe it is depressing lol

There are a few possible answers for this 1)they are .125" wrong 2)the replacement part is 2.0 becase that is a more economical size since it is more common. 3)Or maybe it was 45mm but replacement pipe is standard not metric.... 4)... ok this is what I think on size for High flow mufflers in general for the pathy. 2.25 may resonte more(louder) and you'll feel the differance @ higway speeds. 2.0 will still feel good @ highway speeds but you'll also feel good @ some of the lower rpms too.

No idea, but I like your sound effects. Can we get more?

Using a lathe I hade one made smaller.

the deceptive thing about alty's is they usually give you engine rpm ratings for the pulley configuration and engine they were built for. You want to try and match the same Alternator shaft RPM in an entirely differant build. here's my theroy so 3500 the chaging sytem turns on and it stays on to keep supplying power (say if there was a dip in the idle or a near stall it kept your ignition going) even tho it wasn't designed to run that slow (shaft rpm) for prolonged periods.... edit; I ran some pulley calculators to figure out charge cut in @ lower rpm. the numbers are engine rpm, balancer dia, pulley dia & shaft rmp 3500 6:3 7000 3209 6:2.7 7000 2916 6:2.5 7000... 2333 6:2 as you can see the numbers don't get low enough to put the cut in @ the idle range. the short version. I think I'm wrong, the pulley may not be the problem maybe take the alty back and have it tested.