MY1PATH

People say 6.5-6.8k depending on how accureate their tach is. You can likely go up to 6 with no worries and I have been known to ride 3rd gear all the way up to 5.5k on ocasion. I am positive that @ 7k stock springs will not close a valve faster than the piston can come up.

All VG block 4wd trannys with a tx10 are the same eternally (save for the 95+ 5spd may have the corrected fill hole on it). but they are not all geared the same internally. the differances will likely be minor and not a compatibity issue. I have seen many times on other boards people using r50 and wd22 tannys in their d21 chasis. and ufortuantely nissan didn't start doing 6spd untill the VQ platform.

sure thing, I been dreaming up a vg36i for some time now and thats just some useful info I picked up along the way.

the easiest way, as in everything bolts up where it used to be; get a 3.3 install 3.0 crank (with new bearings of course) the 3.0 crank allows you to use all the same v-belt accesories... the only thing you will keep from the 3.3 will be the block, pistons and heads swap everyting else over (oil pump, pan, sensors intake, etc.)or use 3.0 rebuild parts. If you want a step by step here's a how to that talks about a few differant ways of doing it; http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3766078435/m/62610276131?r=62610276131#62610276131

From what I understand, the brush guad(not winch capable) mounts to the bumper itself. the body lift kit includes brackets to relocate the bumper so I assume that the bushguard would move with it.... BUT I have also heard that these brackets are flimsy and with the added weight of the brush guard it may be hard to keep it from sagging. maybe somone who knows more on this will chime in...

when you get into multi camber obastacles differant parts of each tire may be in contact with the ground @ differant angles. when torqe is applied over an open diff the wheels can travel @ differant speeds (esp when the wheel is turned) or one wheel will just spin. but put a locker in its place and given the sape of the terrain the wheels can push and pull against eachother(side to side) thus putting strains on the component thats supposed to contol that motion (TRE's)

simon I think the 3.0 and 3.3 heads are the same size chamber, the pistson stays below the deck so there is no need to make the 3.3 chamber larger. I do know that the 3.3 castings are are a little bit cleaner which provides greater efficency(for MPG's) and the 10mm exhaust studs are also a plus. the 3.0 cam is larger than the 3.3 cam and will provide more power while remaining more well mannered than any aftermarket cam on the market. if you are looking to rebuild and replace the 3.3 is just as easy to rebuild as a 3.0 and will still last a good 300k+ miles when cared for.

sorry I didn't make that clear if the o2 sensor has deposits on it blocking a proper reading it will not throw a code the diagnostics screw only resets stored codes, resetting the ecu itsef required disconnecting the battery long enough for it to lose any sored information on how it made your engine run. Your engine runs differant and it needs to 'learn that' I a similar probem when I did headers (hesitaed but did not stall)and full exhuast, a mechanic told me to change the o2 and unplug the battery for 4 hours. turn the key & hit the brakes before re-connecting (completes the drain) It ran rich for about an hour after I did that but no more hesitating and it felt allot better all around.

Nokian Vatiiva MT 31x10.50 their smallest is a 30x9.50 which won't rub on stock height I have never seen such an agressive tire perform so well mannerd on the street, they are awesome!

when is the last time you, cleaned your MAF Changed your o2 sensor Reset your ECU so It can generate new fuel curves? the above sould be considered in that order anytime you do anything that noteably effects how much can go in an out of the engine. replacing a clogged muffler or cat with a high flow alternative fall into that category. but you did it all and more. If you go into fuel ratio mode on your ecu and drive It will tell you if your are more than 5% lean or more than 5% rich.

yes, 86.5,87 and many 88's had a guage but I think in 89 they went to a dummy light which only comes on after your already screwed lol.

there is no center differential, thats why they cannot differentiate(meaning turn at differant speeds)

hey while your in town you should check mine out so you know exactly what you are getting.

this also, in effect, partially links braking forces thru the driveline. In the winter my fronts used to lock up too easy in 2wd on packed snow (making it hard to steer) so coupling them to the rear by going in to 4hi kept me from locking up unless all 4 locked up(not so easy). It's a common mistake to make, allot of people tend to think 4wd and AWD are the same but they are built very differantly.

once you get that fixed you should see about ajusting your box and other stering comonents because you told me your wheel has 3" of play in it and I just saw in the fsm that measuring from the inner diamer of the wheel you should have 1.38" play maximum. I just replaced all my TRE's today and my wheel has maybe only .75" of play

ok, a member named HooHaa started making modified centerlinks to Improve the pathfinder, hardbody, xterra and frontier steering systems. the stock CL featured a mini ball joint on each end that went into a pitman arm and idler arm and then a tapered hole on each end for the inner tie rod end. HooHaa's desgn replaced the mini bj with a spherical bushing and a 5/8 thru-bolt to the idler and pitman arms to eliminate play and stering flex caused the the mini bj ends (esp worn out ones). I bought one form him and the differance in steering feel was night & day. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 but now I realize this is an R50 thread so this will probably be of no use to you. sorry.

Do you have a HOOHAA CL? Your CL ends may also wear out quick if you don't. You could do a 5/8 HEIM conversion For the TRE's(remember to use misalignment spacers) that could be pretty beefy depending on the heims you get.

rh by the firewall, rh center, Lh by radiator & Lh center.(iirc) and somehow it did not tick or make any leaking noises even with 2 of the broken studs just sitting in the heat sheild.

well for less than 2k you can buy a VG33. and install it. 10% bigger pistons more eficient combustion from the newer head castings and 10mm exhaust studs(instead of break-allot 8mm) are 3 really good reasons. Since your buget is bigger you can have the casting seams bleneded out of your intake manifold(not polished, leave it rough) headers if you don't already have them, JWT s1 cam and a lighter valvetrain from ferra to improve throttle response(possibly over kill)... I'd say just rebuilding a good 3.3 and swaping it by itslef is a good wakeup for a pathy and leaves you $$$ for other kinds of mods, heres a write up on the 3.3 http://nissan4wheele...131#62610276131

Check the maximum runout limit with a dial guage. Rotor rapair limit: 0.07mm (0.0028 in) (total indicator reading @ center of rotor pad contact surface.) Thickness rotor repair limit: 16.0 mm(0.630 in)minimum thickness parking brake drum maximum inner diamer 191mm(7.52in) Rotor outer diameter x thickness 286 x 18 mm (11.26 x 0.71 in)

Its in the cyl valley underneath the intake manifold. Kind of a PITA to get to if you need to change it.

look under the vehicle @ the linkage for the t-case. the lever action as guided by a plate w/ a track cut into it. If the track is obstructed by a peble or packed dirt that cold do it. also lever action as posted above. does it depress up & down for 4N? the only weakness I know of for the tx10 itself is that is is a chain driven FWD. The cain can stretch & then begin to skip depending on how the 4wd is used. Jumping allot in 4wd and romping on the gass in 4low allot(esp w/ aftermarket t-case gears) will stretch it out fairly quick but most people aren't that hard on their t-cases.

this has been covered, vise grips was a common answer on many threads. bending the strut slightly so it has more friction... newer struts will have a better charge in them when cold. 10F the other day and mine stayed all the way open.

x2

yes but wasn't the BFG 33x10.50 designed to be a tall tire for low rub clearance vehicles?