beastpath

way to not be helpful. the 2x the weight of the vehicle is about right for which winch you get. Neat idea to hook it up, but I personally wouldn't feel safe using it at all. this thread has a lot of good info on it though! especially about cables.

Oh, and I like the Springfield Armory US Flag sticker on the floor!

awesome! thanks. Those are perfect, show me what I needed to know. I am 99% sure that that would fit in a WD21 as long as the ebrake was either moved to the left or cut and angled into that position. I'm going to see if I can pick one up to try it.

I think its a good idea to keep it in. you could replace it with some generic insulation from summit/jegs or somewhere. will probably run a lot less than $160.

yeah, those are the ones for the front. but i see that in schematics on www.factorynissanparts.com there is some sort of tray that has cup holders for the back too.

IMO the best option would be to have an auxillary horn button that is hooked up to the air horn. That way you can use your regular horn normally, but when someone really does something stupid you can blast them away with the air horn.

Here's some pictures. Haven't had the time I needed to do more, damn work keeps giving me night shifts, ruins days off because I want to sleep!!! But I did get the t-bar crossmember out today and unhooked some minor stuff. All my parts are not here anyways, and I still need to get the flywheel resurfaced sometime this week. Console removed Master cylinder and dampner See how much the clutch pedal was bent. Straight pedals! I'm amused how all three have different styles of rubber. Where the pedals mount

cool, yeah, I looked at the JGC, but I dont want to loose the "lumbar support" in the seat if I can help it. Not that I really use it lol, but I just dont want to sacrifice original options.

I looked at pics in the members rides area, but none have very good console shots. Can any of you R50 owners take some pics of your consoles for me? I want to see the clearance of the lid in between the seats. Where does the rear drinks tray pop out of? the top or the bottom? I think this swap would work in the WD21 if the brake lever was cut and some metal welded on to shift it to the left a bit. Anyone know for a fact that it wouldnt work?

what was the tranny model number on the firewall. that will tell us if it is the same.

oh c'mon B! I mean, maybe if you were'nt always posting in the PoHo section you'd get this stuff done faster. lol No worries, not like I need it this second, I haven't even got the auto dropped yet. And I can drive it without the armrest if needs be...just wont be as comfortable. lol

lol, no kidding i need a membership! In a month? Hell, within a week I was there 4 times, and went to that other one once the same week too. Nah, I think I've got everything. Including that rear tail-light harness you wanted. And I have the front light bulb pigtail you pulled the other week too. When are you going back anyways? Haha, Any chance you want to help me drop my AT sunday?

thats the way it is hooked up now, but I don't agree with having it run when you shut the engine off. Why do that? The fluid is not circulating through the engine as the waterpump is not running, so essentially you are just cooling the fluid in the radiator and wasting some power from the battery. I mean, the mechanical fan doesnt keep running after the engine is shut off. just my 2cents

Both pedals are in, and the upper hydraulic lines are in! Wasnt so bad once I knew how to get them in and out, 2nd time round it only took about 10 mins. lol. Just waiting on the lower hydraulic stuff to get here and I can get that on. Clutch kit and Redline MT90 also arrived today. just gotta find the time to drop that tranny.... I did end up pulling the brake booster back a bit, not all the way out, just enough for some extra clearance from the bolts. Like you say, its not necessary, but I did feel like it gave me a bit more room to fanangle the pedal bracket. yeah, I got your pm. thanks, if I run into anything I'll definitely give you a call. I stopped by the JY tues and grabbed the other clutch pedal that I had pulled on Sat. lol. shoulda got the damn thing then. will post some pics when I get home from work.

do a 5speed swap like I'm doing! I got almost everything for about $500 or so.

is that a serious suggestion? lol

some progress today, although not as much as I had hoped. Junkyard was closed as it is a holiday, so have to hit that tomorrow afternoon. The good thing is I have become an expert at getting pedals in and out! so putting it back together should only take about 10 mins, lol. rebuilt my master slave cylinder, but I didn't put any "rubber grease" at the end as I didnt have any. Is this very significant? or should it be ok? I also drained the trans and transfer case, but very little came out of the trans case, probably a quart or two at most. Is there a trick to getting it all out? do I have to unplug the filler to release pressure or something?

no offense, but a little patience wouldn't go amiss. people will help, but not everyone is online all the time. plus today is a holiday, I expect most people are doing things in the real world. as far as your problem... you should replace the temp sensor if it is bad, even if you take it to a mechanic they will replace it, so it is cheaper to do it yourself. IIRC when timing belts slip a tooth or so it can cause rpms to not rev over a certain limit. see if wiggling the wires to the maf sensor helps at all. sometimes the problem is a bad connection there.

Oh God, the saga has begun. lol ended up starting everything today, and so far have gotten the pedals in. however, the problems have begun. As soon as I got the brake pedal back in I noticed that the clutch pedal is slightly bent. So the switch activator wont actually contact the switch. so, going to have to go to the junkyard...again...and get one that isnt bent. I mean, if im going to do all this work I want it to look and feel right dammit!! lol havent bolted everything up yet so it wont be too bad to pull it all out again. lol

180 is supposed to be optimal for the our trucks. the fan should come on when the thermostat opens, so if you put in a 170* thermo set it at 170, if its a 180* thermo set it at 180.

good job

yeah, shouldve said that I added a manual switch in the cab too. any switched source should work though.

i ran a wire through the firewall on the drivers side and hooked into one of the wires coming out of the fuse box. dont remember which one. make sure it is one that only powers on when you turn the truck on, like fuel pump or something.

did you count the teeth between them? thats the only way to be sure. should be 40 IIRC. Mine wasnt exactly spot on with the marks either. but tooth count was A-OK. 40 teeth between upper sprocket marks, 43 between left hand sprocket mark and crank sprocket mark.

yeah, crazy welded wheel stands!! am i right in thinking that all of the underside of the curvy dash will come off? it looks like 2 separate pieces when i have seen pictures. It is not so unfortunately on the earlier dashes. My plan is to take the steering wheel/shaft out, then unbolt the brake pedal, disconnect brake pedal from brake booster, slide brake booster into engine compartment so the bolts are not in the cabin any more and then slide the assembly out. for the clutch it will require more twisting, but should work. then the opposite for install of brake pedal. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. lol Yeah, i just ordered the lines from the dampner down, guess I could have saved some money getting them from B, but oh well. The slave cylinder is new, so ill just get the master kit. good idea. is it a console you are willing to part with B? if so that would be great!! yuck timing belt....