beastpath

phew...confused me for a second

overfill the transfer case fluid? I thought it was just the tranny fluid that needed overfill?

there is a drain hole just near the front drive-shaft, and a fill hole at the back somewhere. make sure you can get the fill hole stopper out before you drain the fluid.

figured out the mounting issue thanks to sammyb33. I guess the trans x-member mount points are different on MTs and ATs. The MT x-member wouldn't fit. So I modified the AT x-member (ie, cut some holes) and it worked like a charm. Trans case went on today. So only have the driveshafts to reconnect, the shifters, y-pipe, t-bar xmember and t-bars, clutch slave cylinder, shift boots, and wiring to do....only. Oh yeah, and then I have to do that write up....

idk if there is a way to find out once it is out. There is a whole diagnostics section in the FSM, or you could download it from this forum, but the tranny still has to be in the vehicle I think. Yes, long extension for the y pipe bolts, and something to hold the bolt in place while you turn the nut - - or is that what a swivel is for? lol Extensions are a must to get the tranny bolts out! As in, multiple extensions that are dual position + a 14mm wobble socket. Someone to guide the socket onto the bolt helps too.

yeah, you have to take the y pipe out. make sure you disconnect all the wiring and breather hoses as well. to get to the torque converter bolts you have to take out the starter and unbolt all the lower trans bolts in order to get the drive plate to drop out. You also need to remove the starter bracket. some people advocate dropping the tranny and t-case as one unit, but that caused some clearance and weight problems for me. depends how high you can lift up your truck safely i guess. yep, that was Koveman and I I honestly dont know. Hope it is just the TQ converter and not the whole thing.

they have to come out. if you are 4wd you will have to drop the torsion bar crossmember also to clear the t-case

i think thats a decent price. especially if they are guarunteeing it for a length of time.

Alright! lots done today, and almost everything was successful!! almost. Have to replace a couple of bolts as I must have left them at the JY. The ones from the auto are 25mm, and I need 30mm. Only a small problem. The tranny is bolted up except for the above 2 bolts. Still have to torque them down correctly, but it went pretty smoothly. The only problem is that its at an angle now and wont let me bolt the transmission crossmember to the frame. It shifted towards the passenger side. Its nice and flush against the engine, and nothing is in the way. Any reason it should do this?

I found a pic with the AT adapter. Idk why I didnt have one at all. compared to the MT (pilot bushing is in there)

and how do I get the throw-out bearing off of the slide?

FINALLY have everything off. One of the flexplate bolts rounded and I had to buy a specialty tool to get it off. So, now everything I get done is really and truly a step forward. I'm a little confused about the pilot adapter/bushing. The pilot adapter is supposed to go inbetween the flexplate and the crankshaft right? because I don't think I had one. What I did have was a bushing IN the crankshaft hole that looks just like the pilot bushing I had in my clutch kit. Here is the end result. That is what I should be mounting the flywheel to right? Or is the pilot adapter still on there? (had a slight oil leak from where the pan mates to the block. put some silicone in there to help stop it up, thats why its blue.)

would those work with a modded CL to make it even stronger??

yeah, they dont make the set up anymore. You might want to go back and grab the torsion bar set up. IIRC it has some sort of quad-bar setup. dont know what else might be on it.

yep. look at unccpathfinder's members ride section> he has jim connor racing susp. you had a lucky find!

or you could get a 1/2 inch breaker bar. You wouldn't have to strain yourself as much...work smarter, not harder right? It is worth it in the long run, especially if you aren't a cheap ass like me and get a big one. There is tons of stuff on a truck as old as ours that will require more strength than a regular ratchet can provide.

I agree. I have mine in a "convenient" place in the engine comp, but it gets in the damned way of everything. Plus if you mount it running away from the headers you will avoid heat. When I get a chance I'll relocate my relocation kit to a crossmember too.

beaudiful! Tex you da man.

there is some sort of adapter for the rounded dash. Pretty sure someone on here has one, but I've never seen a pic of it though.

yeah, the headers will fit on the VG33, but from what I've read its the space in the R50 engine bay that is different. IIRC there is either and accessory or something else in the way of the crossover pipe or somesuch item.

twist it left, its probably just stuck on there a bit.

RE4R01A is the tranny code

wow, that looks pretty cool.

think you are supposed to use auto-tranny fluid in the t-case. but not 100% on that..

i set mine to turn on when the thermostat opens.