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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Whitebrick

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Everything posted by Whitebrick

  1. If only i had see this earlier. I have a 2wd 5 speed and had those on there for years. they bolted up the motor just fine. the y pipe was the problem. i bought mine off jegs in 2007. they looked great at first then the shine was gone in 6 months. had to go to a muffler shop to make a y pipe that would work. mostly to fit and as well as be able to take them off if i had to take the trans off. long story shot........simply junk. the heat off of them will brake down every rubber hose, line you have. the passenger side would hit the frame taking off from a stop or when the a/c kicked on at lights. the past year i have be rebuilding the old girl and i put all the stock stuff. the sound of the old manifolds sound better to me with the magnaflow thats on it. (thats just me its hard to make a v6 sound good.) I would give you my old ones and send them to you but i threw them out even tried seeing to a couple of nissan heads they didnt even want them. just word of advise about the ones your looking at. if it works out for you thats awesome i just didnt have any luck with them.
  2. oh one more thing when its doing that and you bump the gas the speedometer will go up as well when its doing its stupid crap.
  3. Not to change the topic but would this also effect the speedometer as well? What i mean is when its cold out (around 30 to 60) and i start up the truck the speedometer revs up with the rpm's. it will be at around 1200 rpms and it will show that im doing 30 mph. i always heat up my truck hot or cold but if i give it a few minuets it will settle back down and not do it again.
  4. I didnt have time this weekend to check it out....work got in the way.if thats all it is then i will have to do that and just find or make something to take the place of the gap that it now has. If its something as simple as that then i can find something at work for that.
  5. I will for sure be taking it apart this weekend and seeing whats going on. i will just take my time this time. k9sar if you find a gray one let me know i will for sure get it either way if i fix it or not. one of those better to have than not. just pm me on it if you come across one. thanks again everyone.
  6. I did that as well. you can the hear the lock moving back and forth but nothing.
  7. ya i did. When you pull the latch its not touching anything. It feels like its locked. I have pulled, hit, everything but preyed on it do to making marks all over the thing. I didnt know if you could pull the screws off at the bottom and some how move it around to get the damn thing open.
  8. Does anyone out there know a way with out breaking anything to get the freaking glove box open. it feels like the thing is locked but its really not. I never really used the lock for it. I dont ever slam it shut i always pull the handle when closing it. I really need to get it open so i can carry again.
  9. I put a pro comp 18 on mine they say its 1800 cfm however........right now its about 30 degrees out and does well. i do have a switch on it so i do have to keep a eye on the temp. when its 75 out and have the a/c on its not enough. it will rise right over half way. so i left it there and put the mechanical fan back on only using the e fan for the summer when it gets over 100 just to help out.
  10. For those who my have seen my last post a few months ago I had a knock code on the old pathfinder. Let me first lest all the crap that i have done to fix the damn thing. 1. new knock sensor (and in the right place not relocated on the top or whatever) $120 2. all new fuel injectors $450 3. took the MSD box out 4. timing is back to 14 degrees (have also played around with it and took it back to 10 degrees just to see if it would go a way but still would hear it.) 5. new speed sensor. $125 (only because it was throwing a code for it and i was thinking that it may have a issue with everything going on) 6. have changed different grades of gas from midd to high octane as well as different brands of gas. (around my area valero and shell.) 7. new cat (only because i gutted the old one only to find out it throws a egr code and smell like a old 70s hot rod but with lack of power.) $98.00 Alright now as it sits and have been for about a month now i have been running 93 octane. I have no codes right now and haven't with all the crap i have changed. 55. It drives with no problems idles better than it has ever been. However when im in second going to third gear around 2600 rpms you can hear like a air hammer hitting the side of the block. then once in third you will hear it again around 28 to 3000 rpms. thats the only time i hear it but i shift by then due to the fact that i know its doing something destructive. in first nothing fourth and fifth gear i hear nothing. I really thought i had it fixed the first round with changing the knock sensor but due to work and moving i havent had time to post this. the only thing i have been doing is fixing the codes that it was showing and doing what i know form experience with cars. one more thing it has new plugs wires cap rotor. there all about four or five months old. This has all stared about mid June. Right now its sitting with 243000 miles and i am beyond anal with this truck so i have kept up with everything from oil tune ups timing you name it. It has either been changed or fixed. Thank you for your help and time.
  11. Do you have to solder everything or just a few like do you know witch ones to do. Or do they all break in different places? Mine stopped working last summer but when the temperature dropped to 40s and 30s they worked like nothing had even happen. 2drpath I wish i could tell you where its at. However the book that i have for the path shows on two doors its in the same spot. I dont know if it looks the same as the one there showing.
  12. I wish you had a manual. i have one sitting in my dads house that needs a rebuild. that my weakness on cars is trans. Its like magic to me how they work. i will be watching this to see how if you do rebuild it. i always have time to learn new things.
  13. thats what i was thinking too. the speedo works like i know its off having the 31s on it but its never not worked or jumped around or anything. I guess i need to check everything again and make sure that i put everything back right. look at the plugs and what not. I pulled the battery just to see if that would do anything after reading the codes about it. after putting it back it sometimes does it then it drives like nothing happened. it got to be a connection problem. never throws a light or anything. We will see. i will keep yall posted on what it is with it. a small job got a little bigger.
  14. I would just change it but its $120 for it. I just dropped over 200 for the knock sensor and seals.
  15. Lol well it did last that long..... i have cheeked everything that i did plugs vacuum lines everything. Now when i take off it feels like its missing or something. so i checked the plug wires maybe i pulled them out and there not connected well. all of them where good. so i dove it home from work and checked the codes. NOW i have a 14 code. speed sensor...... what im asking is would that make it run like that as if its miss firing? sometimes it feels like this thing is against me.
  16. Just wanted to up date on this. changed the injector and fixed the code for that but still had the knock one. $200 and eight hours later i took all the crap off the top of the block to get to the dang thing. stayed up till four doing it. Putting it all back together drove it nose is gone codes are 55!! the best code in the world for this thing.
  17. Ya when i start it up for the first time it runs so smooth sitting at 1200 or 1000. every day i let it sit there and heat up just a little before i drive off. When its at normal temp it idles rough and shakes like a motor mount is shot. once i am over idle and in gear its smooth. Haven't had time to change it out. i got the part and tomorrow its going to be changed out. Pull the battery run it see if the sound is back and Lord willing its gone then check the codes to see if the knock code is gone as well or if anything shows up. Maybe even get some power back that i didnt know i had lost due to this.
  18. The box i thought would help on gas and what not but really i didnt see anything diffident with anything like mpgs power or anything. I asked around about what was going on with it and told him about all the codes that it was showing and.......ya he said kind of the same thing about the box. however he was looking at the injector code and told me to check the resistances on them. we printed out everything about how on consult. I think i have a bad injector of the 4 i can get to all of them were where they should be at but one. cylinder 4 and 6 i cant get to with out taking the intake off. still going to cram my hand and meter down there to play it safe somehow and know that the other two are good. The sound it is making at random times he was saying more than likely its leaning out and making the pig sound. The injector is about half the price and more than half the work so far with the number 3 not being the same. hope fully this will bring everything back to normal. The box will come out as well when this is all done. Honestly im am done with all this aftermarket crap.
  19. I dont know if this helps but in the mornings now in Houston ist about 80 ish or so and it doesn't make the sound. when i go home from work its about 110 road temp and thats when it seems to make it when its really hot out side. thinking it was oil but its full. i use 10w 40 in it so its pretty thick for what it is.
  20. Its a light ping sound i cant get it to make the sound when its in neutral and reeving it up and down with the hood open. its only makes it when its under a load when driving. I dont know if you have heard a car when advancing timing all the way almost and it makes a ping sound because its way early. Thats the sound that it makes.
  21. long story short the path has had a rough idle for the past week or so and for the past two days now coming home it makes a crazy knocking sound. It only will make the sound around 2200 and 3100 rpms. I took the seat out and ran the codes to see what was going on. it showed up with three. One is a 21 (ignition signal) it has always had that since i put in the MSD box in it. The second one is a 51 (injector circuit) i dont know what that one is yet and need help with that one still. The last one i have is a 34 code (detonation sensor) or other wise knock sensor. What im asking is that changing the knock sensor ($122 mind you) will that take the knock nose out and if thats the problem on why its making that nose. its not all the time just knock certain times no mater if i drive slow fast and what not. It will roll 240,000 miles at the end of the week and has never made this nose before. I checked the timing 15 degrees on the money. At the same time what does a knock sensor do? thanks.
  22. Sorry to get back so late on this. Im really good with doing maintenance with everything from the oil to plugs and as well as cleaning the filter. This last new years i fixed all the oil seals on the front side main seal both cam seals. since i was there i did the water pump and new timing belt. i could have re used the belt it only had about 30K on it but it was cheep and new i would feel better knowing it was new. As well as the plugs put in new ngk but kept the old wires. I did not look that hard in the cap just got all the carbon off blew it out and put it back on. i will have to look in there again. The msd i have had on there now for about six years now same with the coil. I have thought a few times that maybe its either going out or shorting somewhere but it hasn't made a really big deal yet but hopefully that not the case with that. that stupid thing with everything was $350 and really did not see a change with anything. start up fuel mileage nothing. just pop the hood and just looking cool. The timing I know is good i have it set at 15 degrees. i cheeked it last month and still sitting there. Thats the last time it has done it with it shaking and what not. so fare it hasn't done it. Now if you live in Texas the weather is up and down i has some times thought it was just freaking out but will for sure be looking in to the cap deal first. Thank you for yalls help.
  23. The old path has done this a few times in the last week now. When I sit at a light or sometimes roll threw a stop sign it shakes like its missing. It never dies or stalls nor runs weird when idling. It never happens in any other gear then first and only at low rpms. between idle and 1800. there is never a check engine light when this happens or anything. Just to clarify it could be day, night, a/c on or off....just random. with 237000 miles i hope its nothing big. its been a great truck and want to see it hit 300.
  24. I would like to put lights on top as well but have never had a good idea on how to run the wires in side so it doesn't look like crap.

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