94extreme

you know, you should really do these as sets. both fronts at the same time and then both backs at the same time... AT THE SAME TIME being the operative phrase...

yup, you're have some leaks somewhere... from what you said i'd prob guess head gasket especially if it's not much coolant/oil mixing... but it could be cracked/warped head or busted cylinder walls but then you'd have a lot of mixing... dump the oil and look at it.. water is heavier and will sit at the bottom... may not show up on the dipstick... you'll see some gray oil and some green splotches... what was rebuilt? you mention that a couple of times...

start by checking air filter, then fuel flow...

wow. good luck with your project NR

Hey I do too have a friend. hey, virtual friends don't count....

beat up and dirty but no mud? do you puke on it?

chapter, next time make sure you use gl4 oil only in that tranny... not gl5 or whatever... search this site and you'll find loads of related info..

mine does it too. daumn.... i tend to pull on the handle a bit when unlocking and it will open then... it does it from the inside too... especially on the passenger side... kind of like it doesn't want to let you out... not enought of a hassle to look into yet but surely wouldn't mind finding out what the heck is up with that...

exhaust manifolds leaking?

lol. i am not flexing the o2 sensor you know.... it's not leaking and i think i'll toss a bit of the rtv gasket goop on there to make sure...

could be timing or all kinds of other things..

rofl... that's right... lol

sounds to me like you need to take the wheels off and inspect them and then inspect the brakes...

seem to be pretty reliable... more horses then pathy too

try to check for ECU codes... procedure is a sticky in the garage...

NR, HEEPS suck man... everyone i know that rides one constantly turns wrenches.. i am on my second pathy and have had relatively few problems to deal with... there is better parts support with heeps and yotas but pathys are tough and comfortable..

if you missed the timing somehow your tk would run like crap.. if at all

did you try turning the motor by hand/wrench??? if you have a shop vac you could probably suck any water that is in the cylinders through the plug holes... may have to fashion an attachment tho... then pb-blaster/wd40 into each cylinder and let it sit overnight to soak... put enough for it to actually cover the ring areas... while that's soaking also drain oil and look for water in it... grayish/milky color... same with filter.. smell for wd40... next day maybe squirt a bit of engine oil in each cylinder and let that work itself in... then try to rotate the engine clockwise with a wrench on the crank pulley bolt head... your crank bearings could have also seized but you couldn't really be determined without looksy inside the motor... if you're able to trun the motor, do so several times always turning clockwise... refill the oil/filter and cranck by hand a bunch more.... then attempt starting with the starter... i'd also check rad for mixing of fluids.... did you hear any extra loud noises when the truck died.. LOUD bangs? normally, if you fried the motor via swamping you'd have a very loud noise since water wouldn't be able to be compressed by the cylinders... i didn't bother the other guy since you found a replacement engine but if you still feel the need i'll do it...

on pre 90s there is a little screw/bolt in the upper rad hose that you loosen. the air shouldcome out and then when antifreeze starts to flow you turn it back in.. this is all with the engine running and heat on HI... on my 94 i didn't see that screw so i'd do the old school method and take the rad cap off, let the truck run and warm up (heat on HIi) and top off the rad till it couldn't take anymore...letting the fluid circulate at least a couple of times... for both: then you add antifreeze to the recommended level in the reservoir and you should be good to go...

only if the shift celenoid (AT) goes bad and i don't know if pathys have one...

maybe you need to burp it... air bubble in the system might throw out 13...

that's a good deal. i'd just do that.. do timing belt/water pump and whatever else you can/need while it's on an engine stand...

see the other thread about one dieing

after way too much work i finally removed the old o2 sensor.. i'll write the story another day but the new one will not go in but crooked (way crossthreaded) and i was wondering if you guys thought it'd be ok if i left it that way. i don't want to re-assemble everything and then have to undo it.... the threads in the exhaust pipe are f-ed up and i don't have a tap set.. and of course it's a pretty huge hole.. seems to not leak and is in there v. tight the truck runs A1... just some of the thread is exposed... it's facing upwards towards the body and otherwise seems ok.. any thought's would be appreciated... thanks

from treywurst's profile http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showuser=1365 lol