Repack

It won't help. I agree with the aftermarket. I paid <$300 for an Alpine CDA 9827, wiring harness, and universal dash pocket. I'll give you the factory unit. It may have a minor volume problem. Its either in the head or the amps that I removed. But I'll never use it again. Pay for shipping and the head/cd are yours. If it works you can kick me a few bucks or something.

Sweet! Now I have no excuse to not get RSXs for my truck. And my dad and I are going to the yard next Saturday to save some JGC springs. Its an omen! Thanks!

I don't know what is in the gagage section but I can send you pictures on how to rewire (get rid of) the factory amps. Also, if you are getting a head unit, Circuit City will not have the correct wiring harness.

I am such a goof its not even funny. Finally realized (well a few hours ago) what JGC stands for. At least there are some very good junkyards around me. I don't think I've ever felt so stupid!!

Thanks! I'll check out the Used Parts Yard. Its not junk!!!!! I didn't realize that they were Jeep springs. I guess thats why I was having prblems finding them on Pathfinder sites.

What do you have against the Xterra? I drove one (first time ever in one) 2 weeks ago and am now sure that it will be my next vehicle. Its basically a new Pathy. Same wheel base and at least as much intgerior space. Plus the rear seat come removeable. I bought my '95 with 72,000 miles on it. For a bitg more than what I paid for my Pathy I can get an Xterra with 42k. Plus more power and better mileage.

Unless anyone has any other ideas, will be getting JGC springs soon. Any good sources? Cost? Thanks!

Dude, you rule!

I have heard that 3" is too much for the Pathy CV's to safely handle. A friend of mine put that kit on and it did not take long for the boots to rip and the joints to blow apart. From what I have been able to learn, 2" (I know its not much) is a "safe" t-bar lift, but anything over that and you need to do more work. My plan (for now) is to get the JGC springs and then add a ~1" spacer to them, then crank the t-bars up 2". The new springs will raise it 3/4". From looking at the DOwney catalog for my friends Yota, it looks like the good life kits cost $1,000+. Maybe some day I'll have enough.

Thanks, 88 Keith- This is what I think I know. A 3" lift kit is dangerous if not done correctly. I have seen a number of 3" kits available in the ~$650 range. The problem is that they max out all the joints in the front end. A friend of mine bought one and it killed his suspension quickly. As far as I can tell, it costs ~$1,400 to do it the "right way". You need to replace a bunch of stuff to allow for greater angles. I have a friend with a '95 Tacoma and he turned me on to the idea of the 2" r springs and shocks. My shocks and spring are all pretty beat, so my 2" lift won't cost me too much more than I was already going to spend. My birthday is 12/27 and I am going to ask for the parts as a Christmas/B-day goft, so it shouldn't be too long before all the stuff is bolted up. -J

I've used the search function, but can't find what I am looking for. I know that at some point, cranking your trosion bars will start to stress the CV boots and all sorts of other stuff that I do not want breaking. At what point does this become serious? I am all set to get JCG springs and Rancho RSX's. Then I thought, so long as I am lifting it 3/4", why not go for 2"? I am looking to do whatever the max is for rear spring and new shocks without destroying my front end. I think I remember reading that 3" of torsion lift is dangerous. The suspension work is work that I need to do anyway, so I figured why not make te most of it. Thanks guys, this site rules!

A friend of mine took a couple of layers of egg-carton bed pad stuff and cut it to fit aorund the wheel wells. Kinda bolky, but effective. I use a couple of foam sleeping pads and a moving blanket. ALso compfy. But a mattress would be rad. I am slo going to get rid of my bolts. Good tip!

I spent ~3 hours getting a seized pin out. I wasn't smart enough to take the bracket off. Oh well.

I am in a similar position. I just picked up my truck last Thursday. Here are some prices. Parts: Lower ball joints 166.72 Sway-bar links 25.00 Axle Assembly 210.00 The left front axle was rebuilt and they credited me for my old axle. The CV boot had torn and the joint was junk. My Pathy rides sooo much better now. Labor: $205 for everything. I hate to pay for repairs, but I think that this was money well spent. There is no way I could have done all this my self. My next step is to get JGC springs, and maybe RSX shocks. The springs are more of a priority. I do a lot of camping and am sick of my tires buzzing the fender flare bolts. Its a whole lot louder now that I have BFG TKO's.

138,000 for me. I bought it with 72k almost 4 years ago. The only thing to break has been the alternator. But I just dropped a bunch on suspension maintenance and a new timing belt. The only thing that was broken (rather then worn out) was my left cv point. Not too bad, IMO.

I am a newb and hevan't been here for awhile, but I remember several months ago someone was mentioning a set of (I'm pretty sure) Monroe shocks that work well. I remember the poster saying that they drove like the they were set up in the middle of the comfort and performace settings. I *think* that the poster might have said that they are a generic version of the R5000 made by the same company. I was looking for info b/c I thought that my shocks might be bad, but I now think that its the springs/torsion bars. Happy hunting.

They rock in the snow.

Why not just get the AT's and forget about those others? Everything I have heard from AT owners is that they are one of the best/most versitile ties out there and not too loud on the road. I will be getting rid of my Michelins soon and putting on AT's. One of my friends rund Mur Terrains and even they are not too bad as a daily tire.

I am not too attatched to any one filter brand. I dod throw down for a Mobil 1 synthetic filter and it seemed to run smooth. Can't say as that I really notice a difference. What I do notice is how much of a difference switching to Castrol Syntec has made a world of difference.

From below

Here is the crack as it appears from above and below. It goes straight across the centerline of the truck. Upon closer inspection, it looks like rot. From the top it looked like a mount of some sort was rusting out. How do the Monroe shocks compare ride-wise to the stock shocks? Sorry for saying "blown spring" Should have said "worn". Hope you all don't think I'm some sort of idiot!

I have a '95 SE V6 w/ off-road package and the adjustable shocks. I have been having issues lately with the truck bottoming in the back. It used to only happen when I had 3 people in it and a weeks worth of camping gear, but now it hapens with just 3 people in it. Could the shocks and/or springs be blown? I have had it for 50K miles and not replaced any suspension components. Also, there are 2 cracks in the body that can be seen with the rear seats flipped up. Looking underneath, they are opposite the body mounts that are directly in front of the rear wheel. I'll post pictures. Assuming that my shocks are blown, any recomendations? I have no idea on pricing, so that would also be nice. I am looking to keep it pretty stock, for now at least. Thanks.

How hard is this work to do yourself? I am having almost the exact same problems. My front end feels aweful right now.

SS question- Thats sweet how little it costs. How much of an improvement in the ride do you notice? What sort of improvement? The steering on mine has always felt a little on the lite side. Is that the sort of thing that the ss helps with, or is it more of an off-road part?

First time here. Been wanting to find a PF forum for awhile. From what I have seen of this board so far, it looks pretty cool. I have a bunch of mechanical question so I'll post them in the garage. Here is my 1995 SE V6. I've had it for just over 3 years. Bought it w/ 72K, 125K now. All original except the alternator. And the motor. Almost forgot. The original owner told me that the original motor blew at 20K b/c of a Nissan defect- they forgot to drill an oil port or something in the block. All the replacement work was done by Nissan. Any of you here of this?