JackStraw1

Do all of the fan motor settings work ? Is there a little heat coming out of the vents with the blower off and the temp setting all the way to the right?

Just saw this. Thanks for the invite. I doubt you guys would want to hang with an ol geezer like me but I'll definitely give you a heads up if/when we come up. It'd be cool to check out your rigs an have a brew or two. We'll probably take the wife's car though since it gets like 8000 mpg which is just a tad better than the Path guzzler. Oh yeah, I promise not to talk too much about how the Otters are whippin up on those boys from your side of the line this year, LOL

Thanks guys, I figured it out. it's amazing what a good night's sleep can do. Here's a few labelled pics to help anyone else who is looking to test the resistance of fuel injectors and doesn't want to spend an inordinate amount of time trolling through the wiring diagrams and FSM. This one shows the more common functions of the engine control harness sub connectors and more importantly the numeric labeling of each. This one was pirated from PattiMax and I added the labels showing which connection was which (this was what i was having trouble with when I first looked at it) The green arrows show where to test resistance. Ohms should be between 10 -14 for normal function. Hope this helps someone get it done a little faster

I replaced several starters in my pathfinder until I found the starter relay mod. Turns out that was where the real problem lay for me. Once completed I have had no further starter issues. Yes it was a PITA getting starter out but I managed to wiggle it out thru the top (while running through my entire vocabulary of curse words) You might want to have a look at that mod if the starter goes out again less than the expected time and you have not already done the mod. What diagnosed it for me was running a jumper wire to the solenoid. When the starter wouldn't crank, I would check the battery and if battery was good, I would just touch the jumper wire to the Positive battery terminal. Truck would start every time and I knew that the problem was not getting adequate power to the solenoid. Starter relay mod fixed it permanently. Jumper wire is still in place just in case

LOL, I was actually thinking about taking a summertime trip from Maine up into Nova Scotia. I wanted to take the car ferry over and bring my Pathy along for the trip but I heard that the ferry is no longer running up there. Bummer. Thinking about a trip to Montreal next summer though !

I love winter but I hate that part about living in the rust belt. Mine's getting eaten alive too. Friggin DOT guys dump salt and CaCl2 like its goin outta style around here. I guess they need to justify their jobs but I would rather just drive on 2" of packed groomed snow than a clear pavement given all the crap they need to dump to get to that pavement ! Those with 2 wheel drive vehicles should get 4WD or AWD, just stay home or move South !!!

I had trouble with those same Moog bushings wearing out PDQ. Granted I live in pothole city and I think its worse for these things hitting the potholes at night when you can't see em going 40 + mph than wheeling at lower speeds. The bushings just seemed kinda cheap. I got em of Feebay and they were probably some counterfeit aftermarket crap outta China is my suspicion. That said, the holes on mine are pretty hogged out. I have not gone to all the trouble you have but I replaced them earlier this fall with a set of Autozone ones. Black but they are poly. So far so good. I think I paid less than 20 for the pair. fingers are stilled crossed that i get a year or two out of them.

Here's a few pics of the connectors. Can someone kindly point me in the right direction ? (Had to re-figure how to post from Flickr. Moderator kindly remove previous post.)

[url=https://flic.kr/p/BT4ivD][img=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/616/23550272419_2d0efc5591_k.jpg][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/BT4ivD]photo 2[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/128745873@N07/]Jim Dandy[/url], on Flickr

Ok, forgive my ignorance here. I can't seem to locate the connector where the injector resistance can be tested. I am looking at a 94 Path. Does anyone have a picture of it. Can't believe I'm even posting this......<smh> tired.......zzzzzzzz.

Thanks for the link B. Nice site. I found a 12" drill for my pilot hole at an old department store from the 50's that sells damn near everything. +1 mom and pop. I tried the acetone/ATF. I managed to get one unbroken stud out. The two that are center drilled still won't budge. I soaked em overnight. There are two remaining unbroken studs and they're not wanting to move either. They are the two on the center exhaust port. So..... as it sits now, I'm planning on drilling out the two broken ones and helicoiling and I think I'm gonna leave the two intact studs alone. Mainly because the bottom one looks darn near impossible to drill a straight hole into because of interference with the top of the engine mount on that side. I've torqued on em to the point of flexing with no movement. I need to get this puppy back on the road before the snow comes !

No 12" bits here at HD, Loewe's or local hardware store. I guess I am living in @!*%eville because I can't source a frickin thing here locally - really a royal PITA. Can't find cobalt drill bits with hex drive. Can't find a drill extension with a chuck instead of a hex drive so I can use regular drill bits. Chewed up the TN bits. Can't find stud for the collector. Can't even get the dipsticks at Advance to find me the right exhaust gasket that goes between the downpipe on the drivers side and the Y-pipe. On the plus side, I got a nifty little gizmo for centering the drill on the studs. Got one out cleanly and another drilled through but it's sticky and sitting in penetrating oil a little longer before I give it another twist. Really don't want a broken extractor here. May just have to drill it out and re-tap. Might just have to try that ATF/acetone or lacquer thinner

Well you the general rule of thumb with organs and other body parts. If there are two or more - you can afford to lose one or two If there is only one and it goes bad - remove it anyway - if its important it'll grow back.

Pretty sure I was able to get the fan changed out on my 94 4x4 without having to take out the radiator, just the shroud. But then again, I seem to enjoy frustrating the crap out of myself by working in ridiculously tight spaces. Nice write up.

So I got the torch and it made short work of the exhaust fasteners. Got the top EGR nut off. Bottom one just wasn't happening. Also managed to get the bolts off the remaining studs. Had to take the horn out to squeeze the manifold and EGR tube out through the top. So now I've got 3 broken off in the head and 3 intact. I was thinking about heating the intact ones with the torch before trying to turn them. I think I can get the torch on em perpendicular so as not to heat the block much. Which leads me to this... anyone heat the block around the broken ones with a torch ? I know its aluminum but I wondering if this can be done with out warping, deforming or god forbid - melting the aluminum. Gonna try to get this done Monday/Tues when it warms back up to 60

So I got the torch and it made short work of the exhaust fasteners. Got the top EGR nut off. Bottom one just wasn't happening. Also managed to get the bolts off the remaining studs. Had to take the horn out to squeeze the manifold and EGR tube out through the top. So now I've got 3 broken off in the head and 3 intact. I was thinking about heating the intact ones with the torch before trying to turn them. I think I can get the torch on em perpendicular so as not to heat the block much. Which leads me to this... anyone heat the block around the broken ones with a torch ? I know its aluminum but I wondering if this can be done with out warping, deforming or god forbid - melting the aluminum. Gonna try to get this done Monday/Tues when it warms back up to 60

Yeah, one of the collector studs came all the way out for me too (the one closest to the block, nut was totally rusted in place surprised it didn't break) I guess I'll get it off when I pick up the torch. I'm gonna try to get a center punch in there for the manifold studs cuz I've had the same off center drilling happen when drilling out a broken bolt on the a/c condensor. Thinking about using left handed drills too. Damn I wish I had a body lift to give me a little more wiggle room

Thanks for answering guys. I'm trying to borrow a torch now, otherwise imma have to trudge down to HF and get that lil portable (expensive fastner remover but I have always wanted one, ) Snow belt rust has made it much harder to work on truck. I took a look at the two bolts that attach the down pipe to the y-pipe and they have morphed into something that looks linda like melted plastic. Plus they are in a tight spot that almost necissitates taking offf the torsion bar on that side - or maybe moving back to the next connection after the Y-pipe. Did you guys loosen the lower or upper part of the EGR tube ? Upper is obvi easier to get to but I don't know if I could finagle it out of there still attached to the manifold. @Jmoor --7 broken studs ? You're the king. The stud king,lol

Started this lil bit of joy today on the driver's side. Just couldn't take the ticking and the exhaust smell any more. No BL - kinda tight. 3 broken studs so far with minimal torquing with a 1/4" drive. Seems like they are just total @&#33;*%e. Can't get either end of the EGR tube to move. Don't have a wrench big enough for the top end. I guess I'll put a pipe wrench to it after it sits in the lube for a while. Anyone ever just take the EGR off and work it out attached to the manifold? Oh yeah, haven't seen it mentioned yet but I have spacers between the nut and the manifold flange. I have a 94 WD21 4x4. Is this common? I guess I'll have to get an extra one for the stud that is completely missing when i go to put it back together.

Nice work. Be sure to check the blower motor squirrel cage to the right for leaves as well. Unless you like having your blower sound like a 10 year old's bicycle with playing cards clothes pinned to the spokes, lol

Not that I have seen. Might make a cool hamster wheel though, lol

Filthy Luker's picture links are all broken and doesn't look like he has been active for a while. Does anybody have pictures of transmission pan drop and flush ?

^^That is what I have always used on my '94.

^^^^^^^^^^^Agree, the HIDs don't do well in WD21s with stock light/reflector and are prob not a great upgrade for these in terms of the other motorists on the road, lol I did see a tremendous improvement however with just the standard headlight mod adding relays. (should still be in how to section I believe) I have mine powered directly off battery instead of alternator so lights can be turned on briefly without vehicle running. Easier to wire that way too.

Yeah, I already vacuumed it out but the problem is the condensation drain on the other side of the case in the back at the firewall drain. I have taken the front clips off and cracked the case a little. I can get just a little bit of a peek in there by pulling down on the front. It looks pretty clean but obviously something is blocking the drain. I'm gonna try to snake a coat hanger in there today and maybe flush it from the top side with some mild detergent. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna but a real compressor and blow the sucker out seriously. That's what I get for parking under live oaks for years in Florida to try and get a little bit of shade from the frickin' miserable heat down there, lol Wished I'd had room in my garage.