Harvey

If what you are saying is correct [and I don't doubt that it is] you've got me confused. I'm confused because all high performance cars and modern cars that I can think of have gas and not oil shocks. If oil shocks provided better control of rebound, why would so much research and development go into gas and not oil shocks and then find their way on modern vehicles? Also, from what I understand offroad racers use gas shocks too as do those with heavy loads. So again, why go gas and not remain with oil. Please do not think I'm suggesting for a moment that you're wrong, I'm trying to understand the concept of oil v. gas [and vs. foamcell] more. This is because my old Range Rover Classic came with oil shocks. This gave the best ride of any 4x4 i've owned. I swapped the old tired suspension for new springs and oil shocks and thought it great with the exception of when I was towing. I thought the suspension lacked control. I then went to a LandCruiser [coil not cart sprung] and thought it's ride was aweful. Swapped that for new suspension with foamcell shocks and to me the ride was as good with oil shocks but much better than oil shocks when towing. Then I went to a Patrol. Same rubbish ride. Swapped the spring and shocks [this time to gas charged] and thought the ride was the most harsh at normal road speeds but best over rough roads [contradicting your suggestion of oil shocks]. Now I own a Shogun and again went for gas charged shocks which whilst better than those I had on the Patrol still are not as good as the FoamCell shocks I had on the LandCruiser. So next time I do a suspension swap [this time on my Pathy] I'll definitely go for foamcell again. So given my experience, if you could explain a little more behind the theory of oil v gas [and if possible foamcell too] then I'd certainly appreciate it as I always like to gain new knowledge. Thanks! Harv.

You're right. But, the back fog always seems much brighter and more neon [if I can use that term]. I don't know why that is though. The back fog is a legal requirement in the UK but doesn't appear to be in Oz [where my car is from]. Maybe intl car makers assume Australia doesn't get fog?

Mr Pickles and Mzextreme thanks for that. I think I've done exactly what you have both suggested. Also, thanks for the diagram, it's the best one I've seen and is very helpful. Harv.

Thanks for your responses folks! I think I might clarify that when I say 'fog lights' I do mean just the single rear fog light and not the front spot lights that are often called fog lights. My switch has a red light built into it hence the three prongs on it. The diagram says, and so I have done... 1 wire from the switch to earth 1 wire from switch to relay 1 wire from switch to main power source for head lamps. It's a legal requirement in the UK that your front fog [not spots for the legal requirement] and your rear fog can only be switched on when your main headlights or sidelights are on. This is why I needed to figure out what was the main powersource. I think I've found it but i'm not 100% sure. The factory wiring is a mess and so too is my attempt at the moment. I just want to see if it'll work and then i'll tidy it up. But I can't test it yet as the car's in bits so I'll have to wait a bit. For the record I'm not trying to override the car's original switch with a secondary one as my vehicle doesn't have front fogs, spots or a rear fog as std hence why i need to fit them and a switch but make sure the lights only turn on with my switch one the main lighting system [side or main beam] are turned on. I hope this clarifies a little. regards Harv.

Hi all, I need a bit of guidance please. I'm trying to do some wiring [front spots and rear fog] and i've got myself confused. My confusion is this: My switch has three points, 'earth, load and supply'. So earth is earth, simple enough. Now is supply the power cable from the relay and load is the splice into the Pathfinder's main wriring loom or is it the other way around? Also, once we have an answer to the above, how do I know which is the main power cable in the main wiring loom? Thanks all Harv.

265/75/16 = 32x10.50x16 I hope this helps Harv

A cheap option? Take a QD32 from a Nissan Elgrand or Aussie Spec Navara. Bolt on the turbo manifold from a TD27T and onto that bolt on the turbo from an Impreza. You should be good for about 130-140bhp at 3000 and NS 240ft/lb at 2000rpm... or so i'm lead to believe. Its a much cheaper turbo option than an AXT/Denco/MTQ turbo kit and then you could add an intercooler on it and get some more juice. I think MPG would be around 25-30. Hope this helps. Harv.

I believe the Chassis Code is called 'R20'. I've also just come across the website www.onlinefreeebooks.net whic apparently has online manuals for our vehicles for free.

Good question Simon. I have no idea but, will find out!

In trolling the i'net i've noticed that some parts between the WD21 Pathy and the 93-03 Terrano II are the same; notibly their shocks, torsion bars and springs. So this got me thinking, are they the same chassis just with a different body and if so... would their body lift kits be the same? Does anyone know?? Thanks Harv.

it's not a Christmas decoration is it? You stick Santa or the 'Angel' of your choice on the top of it if you didn't get the present you wanted??

After a search and going through 8 pages of results I couldn't find a definitive answer on whether or not the front springs of a 1996 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport would fit the rear of the 2 door WD21 Pathy? I know the JGC ones will but at the moment there are none of these on Ebay in the UK. But there are of the XJ hence why I've searched for the answer and am now asking this question.... Because I couldn't find the answer I'm guessing 'no'. Am I right in this assumption? Thanks Harv

it's not the tyre you're looking at but why not look at other AT's as well such as Cooper ST's or Mickey Thompson's MTZ or FCII's? Just a thought for you as i don't rate either tyre you're looking at on we roads or snow.

A good way to test your alternator is to do the following with your multimeter: Test battery current with vehicle off. Test battery current with vehicle on, no ancilliaries, just idleing Test alternator current with vehicle on, no ancilliaries, just idleing. Test battery again with all electrical items on, running at approx 1/3 - 1/2 revs Test alternator again with all electrical items on, running at approx. 1/3 - 1/2 revs. By doing the above, you will see if the alternator is really charging the battery or not, both at low revs/stress and higher revs/stress. We've done this on all my vehicles when we've suspected the alternator and it's turned out to be an accurate test.

If it helps on research... the QD32 is often used in forklift trucks. Might be worthing looking down that avenue on the internet to see if you can get more info on it.

Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60 for my race engine Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5w-40 for my 4x4 or... Silkolene Pro R 15w 50 for my race engine I am curious though to try Valvolene's VR1 engine oil for my little race car I tried Amsoil once and was not impressed at all. By comparisson though, every time i've put in Castrol oils, my engines have just felt smoother and by the seat of my pants, happier engines. So i'm very loyal to that brand now.

who made your bumper? I love it!

Yes but does that mean its direct or indirect injection?

Hi all... simple question this one as per the title... thing is i don't know the answer to it! So any help appreciated. regards Harv.

I was kinda wondering this as well... anyone any ideas. I was thinking that not all of the face of the drum is required. If overheating causes brake fade then drilling a couple of holes into the face plate of the drum will help with that and also help with getting rid of water after some deep wading... just a thought... though probably a rubbish one!

My1path thanks for your reply. It's a home made trailor that I have and so haven't a clue about what weight the trailor puts on the hitch. But, am I right in assuming that the longer the front 'A' part of the trailor [ ^ ]... he says trying to display it within the brackets... the less weight the trailor puts on the hitch and the shorter the A part = the more weight put on the tow hitch? Also... am I right in thinking then, given your response, you think my std Pathy spring will be fine with what I am towing and there is no need to upgrade to the TJM HD option? Or were you referring to my Shogun re: that statement. Thanks very much for your help. It is appreciated. Harv.

Simple question this one... TJM springs are 180lb per sq inch. This is their HD version. My question is... is this enough for towing? At the moment I tow with my Montero/Pajero/Shogun [depending on your country of origin] and this has uprated medium springs that sag about an inch when i'm loaded up. I tow my race car and equipment with it to the track and home again once a month. The rest of the time I usually have little in the car. My trailor is approx. 800kg, my race car 800kg, my other race equipment another 200kg... + my wife and I and misc items. So overall I'd say fully laden the vehicle's additional weight over std would be approx. 2000kg. Given the additional weight, I'm wondering if the rear springs at 180lb sq inch would sag heaps when i'm loaded up... the last thing I want is an unstable Paddy. All thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Thanks Harv.

thanks for your help all. It is appreciated. Harv.

Yes please... me too!

Does anyone know any more about this vehicle... I love it!