Harvey

I have another question regarding this now... My main headlight switch clip was broken so it never staid in it's little socket. So I bough another switch and threw the original away... oh for stupid ideas. Anyway, the original switch had two prongs on the back. My new one has three; earth, relay and power. Given the original switch was 2 pronged, it has two wires; a light blue and a black with blue line. So my question is: which one is power, which one is earth? Also, what do I need to do to make the two wires fit the three pronged switch? Thanks all! Harv.

Just a quick question... if you have a two inch suspension lift, suspension companies recommenda + 2 inch shock length. I can understand the logic for this. So if you just have a two inch body lift without a suspension lift do you also need [or if you don't need it would it be recommended] to also have a + 2inch shock length and thus, if you have a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift you thus now need + 4inch shock length? thanks Harv.

If what you are saying is correct [and I don't doubt that it is] you've got me confused. I'm confused because all high performance cars and modern cars that I can think of have gas and not oil shocks. If oil shocks provided better control of rebound, why would so much research and development go into gas and not oil shocks and then find their way on modern vehicles? Also, from what I understand offroad racers use gas shocks too as do those with heavy loads. So again, why go gas and not remain with oil. Please do not think I'm suggesting for a moment that you're wrong, I'm trying to understand the concept of oil v. gas [and vs. foamcell] more. This is because my old Range Rover Classic came with oil shocks. This gave the best ride of any 4x4 i've owned. I swapped the old tired suspension for new springs and oil shocks and thought it great with the exception of when I was towing. I thought the suspension lacked control. I then went to a LandCruiser [coil not cart sprung] and thought it's ride was aweful. Swapped that for new suspension with foamcell shocks and to me the ride was as good with oil shocks but much better than oil shocks when towing. Then I went to a Patrol. Same rubbish ride. Swapped the spring and shocks [this time to gas charged] and thought the ride was the most harsh at normal road speeds but best over rough roads [contradicting your suggestion of oil shocks]. Now I own a Shogun and again went for gas charged shocks which whilst better than those I had on the Patrol still are not as good as the FoamCell shocks I had on the LandCruiser. So next time I do a suspension swap [this time on my Pathy] I'll definitely go for foamcell again. So given my experience, if you could explain a little more behind the theory of oil v gas [and if possible foamcell too] then I'd certainly appreciate it as I always like to gain new knowledge. Thanks! Harv.

You're right. But, the back fog always seems much brighter and more neon [if I can use that term]. I don't know why that is though. The back fog is a legal requirement in the UK but doesn't appear to be in Oz [where my car is from]. Maybe intl car makers assume Australia doesn't get fog?

Mr Pickles and Mzextreme thanks for that. I think I've done exactly what you have both suggested. Also, thanks for the diagram, it's the best one I've seen and is very helpful. Harv.

Thanks for your responses folks! I think I might clarify that when I say 'fog lights' I do mean just the single rear fog light and not the front spot lights that are often called fog lights. My switch has a red light built into it hence the three prongs on it. The diagram says, and so I have done... 1 wire from the switch to earth 1 wire from switch to relay 1 wire from switch to main power source for head lamps. It's a legal requirement in the UK that your front fog [not spots for the legal requirement] and your rear fog can only be switched on when your main headlights or sidelights are on. This is why I needed to figure out what was the main powersource. I think I've found it but i'm not 100% sure. The factory wiring is a mess and so too is my attempt at the moment. I just want to see if it'll work and then i'll tidy it up. But I can't test it yet as the car's in bits so I'll have to wait a bit. For the record I'm not trying to override the car's original switch with a secondary one as my vehicle doesn't have front fogs, spots or a rear fog as std hence why i need to fit them and a switch but make sure the lights only turn on with my switch one the main lighting system [side or main beam] are turned on. I hope this clarifies a little. regards Harv.

Hi all, I need a bit of guidance please. I'm trying to do some wiring [front spots and rear fog] and i've got myself confused. My confusion is this: My switch has three points, 'earth, load and supply'. So earth is earth, simple enough. Now is supply the power cable from the relay and load is the splice into the Pathfinder's main wriring loom or is it the other way around? Also, once we have an answer to the above, how do I know which is the main power cable in the main wiring loom? Thanks all Harv.

Cyril if my wife said to me... 'right I wanna go home' then i'd pack up tomorrow. I basically have 2 options at this point in my life, 1-leave wife and go home or 2 - leave home and keep wife.... tough choice! he he...

he he he...

It's a 1988 Pugeot 205 Gti with 205 Rallye arches and painted Porsche Riviera Blue. In it's current spec it weighs 780kg with 200bhp... so it's a lot of fun!

Here's a side shot prior to getting graphic'd up.

My Pride 'n' Joy....

Originally from Mt. Eliza in Vic

265/75/16 = 32x10.50x16 I hope this helps Harv

A cheap option? Take a QD32 from a Nissan Elgrand or Aussie Spec Navara. Bolt on the turbo manifold from a TD27T and onto that bolt on the turbo from an Impreza. You should be good for about 130-140bhp at 3000 and NS 240ft/lb at 2000rpm... or so i'm lead to believe. Its a much cheaper turbo option than an AXT/Denco/MTQ turbo kit and then you could add an intercooler on it and get some more juice. I think MPG would be around 25-30. Hope this helps. Harv.

I believe the Chassis Code is called 'R20'. I've also just come across the website www.onlinefreeebooks.net whic apparently has online manuals for our vehicles for free.

Good question Simon. I have no idea but, will find out!

In trolling the i'net i've noticed that some parts between the WD21 Pathy and the 93-03 Terrano II are the same; notibly their shocks, torsion bars and springs. So this got me thinking, are they the same chassis just with a different body and if so... would their body lift kits be the same? Does anyone know?? Thanks Harv.

Golly... all he was doing was trying to be neighbourly and get a long with 'the locals'.... No please some people/critters aye!

it's not a Christmas decoration is it? You stick Santa or the 'Angel' of your choice on the top of it if you didn't get the present you wanted??

TJM, Lovells, Ironman, Dobinsons all do the suspension parts for your car. I've found out though that WD21 brakes on aussie cars are different to those put on the same vehicles in different countries... bit of a bugger now i've got my aussie spec vehicle in the UK as I can't get replacement pads for it. Oh well....

I remember as a kid someone telling me 'Rccomended Every Part Comes Off'. I like your version too though

G'day Cyrl, is your V6 from a VN or VP? I know they changed these internally between the models. Also coming from the Z24 did you buy the ECU and wiring loom from the donor car or go after market such as Motec, EFI, Pectel etc?

Nadi... so don't go through fortec. Contact Ironman directly in Australia via email. Tell them you want the complete kit. Ask them for the contact details of another agent [JCA was who they put me in contact with]. They will help you. Alternatives are Dobinsons, Raw 4x4, EFS, OME. You could contact these guys directly in Oz as well and ship to you direct from there. I've done this now 3 times with various 4x4's i've owned. TJM are also another option. You can source their products from OEC in the UK and with the exchange rate from Euro to Sterling having improved recently, this could be a good idea.

Contact Kristian Ristell who works at Ironman in Clayton Victoria. You'll find the email address for Ironman on their Australian Website. Ask Kristian for the contact details of Jean Claude-Allen. Jean Claude-Allen is the Ironman Rep for most of Europe [Germany/Belgium/France/Holland]. JCA helped me source Ironman products after I received completely crap service from Ironman in the UK. He even worked out which country was the cheapest country to ship from to me in the UK. Top sales service and top quality products. I would not hesitate to use Ironman products on any 4x4 I own. I'd send you the details myself for JCA but I can't find them for looking at the moment. I hope this helps Harv.