Harvey

not sure about the body lift but Raw, Lovells, Dobinsons, EFS, Ironman, OME all do suspension lifts for WD21 models... you'll need to import from Oz though.

October 1986 for me... have completely stripped it this year and it was 100% genuine... I don't think it'd been cleaned since it's build either given some of the items i found

Hi All, I ordered some new door locks for my Pathy but I've noticed a couple of things... 1 - I need some plastic bits as it's the plastic bits of the door clock inside the door that closes next to the latch on the B pillar thats broken. So my question is - where do i get these plastic bits from? 2 - whilst I can figure out how to take of the cath that holds the lock barrell on the door, how do I actually detach the barrell from the rest of the mechanism? thanks all! Harv.

Does anyone know the difference between the injectors of the nissan diesel's TD27 and QD32? Specifically i'd like to know if there a difference in: 1 - part numbers? 2 - physical size - in other words would an injector from one of the engines screw into the other engine? 3 - flow rate? Thanks all! Harv.

Hi All, I'm after opinions/reviews from those who have the Procomp M/T [not the extreme version] on their 4x4. My own tire history has taken me from Cooper ST's which were fab to Bridestone 693's which are ok... The Procomp's near me are the cheapest per tire by about £25 and I like the fact they're siped.... but i've read reports online of very weak sidewalls which is a concern for me. So over to your experience! thanks all Harv.

I'm exclusively a Kenwood fella purely because for my music tastes and the volumes I listen to my music at I haven't come across a better overall brand yet. But, in talking with my local car audio [specifically about Head units] he informs me that for normal retail brands he would put the top four as: 1 - Alpine 2 - Pioneer 3 - Kenwood 4 - Sony He said the Pioneers do provide slightly better sound and overall quality than Kenwood and that Sony sound very tinny when compared to Kenwood. As for value for money, for the quality you get he said he'd personally pay the extra for the Alpine if he had the cash but if not, his preference would be for Kenwood. He said Pioneer really just don't provide the value of money of these other two preferred brands and that Sony is too expensive for what you get. I hope this helps.

Just another thought on this for anyone else who's never done anything like this before... before you disconnect the old harness to add the new one, write down what colour wires from the car manufacturer's own wiring loom are attached to the ISO connector because they probably won't be the same colour. For example... whereas the battery wire on the ISO harness is yellow, the battery wire on my vehicle's loom is green with a white stripe.

Thanks for your guidance as it is appreciated. For the benefit of others who like me, are brand new at this sort of thing here is what i've learned today: On the ISO lead there are 2 parts to the connection. The black connection part is for hooking the head unit up with the power and earth. The brown part is for connecting the speakers. On the black ISO connector: yellow = battery, red = power, black = earth, blue = remote and orange = illumination On the brown ISO connector: Green and white relate to the left hand side of the car, Grey and Purple relates to the right hand side of the car. *Each colour with the black stripe is the negative wire and the solid colour is the positive.* *Note: this observation appears to be opposite to the audio cable for the speakers themselves with the wire that has the stripe being the positive connection. regards Harv.

Can anyone guide me please?

Hi All, Today i've been putting in new front speakers into my Paddy. The speakers come with their own wiring and connections. The connections to the new speakers are actually very different to the size of the connections that were on the OEM speakers. And, the legth of the wires on the new speakers are long enough to feed right through the doors to the actual stereo. Given my scenario above my questions are: 1 - do I just cut the new wires that come with the new speakers and join them to the old wires from the OEM speakers? 2 - do I get rid of all the original wires that came with the OEM speakers and buy new connectors to attach to the end of the new wires so they connect to my new head unit? 3 - is there any advantage in number 2 vs. number 1 as far as sound quality is concerned? Thanks all Harv.

What do you mean by an 'AFC' unit? A stand alone unit costs in the uk around £3,500. A 2nd hand OEM costs around £175 on the upper side and £65 on the low side. For my race car I can justify the costs but on this project I can't. Though I must admit I haven't seen the costs of Apex or HKS so I'll check them out. To date i've just seen the prices of just GEMS, Emerald, Omex, Motech etc.

Dave thanks very much for your help in this. I really do appreciate it. Harv.

Hi all, does anyone know of a Japanese import company or a Japanese wrecker's yard who may be able to source ECU's? I'm seriously struggling on this front. I've got the QD32ETI engine but I can't source an ECU or wiring loom for it for a manual vehicle. As it stands the only company doing a stand-a-lone ECU for a diesel is Motec and at £3,500 i'd rather get rid of the engine i've bought and put a different model in as it's cheaper to do! But i don't want to do this if I can help it, hence my question here. Thanks all Harv.

excellent. thank you all for your help and guidance on this one. Harv.

i didn't think the tough plastic were as strong. I'm sure i've read on other forums talking about steel being tougher that was the only reason...

In an aussie forum, it was suggested that many USA parts for 2 door Pathy's won't fit Aussie spec vehicles. I've asked about the body lifts but have not had an answer and so i thought i'd ask the question here? Also... does anyone know of a company that does steel body lifts rather than the tough plastic [whatever the material is] type? Thanks Harv.

if it helps... my recent experience of trying [still ongoing] to do an engine swap is thus... you will need the wiring loom and ecu of the engine you are replacing it with. Also do not assume that manual and auto's share the same ecu and loom. Plus do not assume that similar engines will use the same ecu as their programs will be different. Final thing... if the engine you're swapping it with is a fly-by-wire type, you will need a throttle potentiator [?] - if that's what it's called. These are all things i've learned in doing my own... so in the engine you swap to, make sure it's local to your part of the world, otherwise like me, you'll have problems sourcing the parts to get the swap completed. regards Harv.

from what I'm learning through my own engine swap [though i'm in the process of going from the Z24i to the QD32ETi] is that the harness and ecu are critical unless you get an aftermarket ecu [which is easier for petrol engines than it is for diesel!]. The reason for this is that the engine itselft KA24DE could well have an immobiliser on it. This will read with the ECU it was matched up to. The KA24E's weren't as complicated as this and so I would believe you need to obtain the harness and ECU for the KA24DE when doing the swap. That's if you plan on keeping the engine std. If you get an aftermarket ecu from any of the larger companies such as EFI, Motec, Haltech, GEMS etc then you won't need to worry about that as they will start you off on the harness you will need. Once that's done, don't forget to get it mapped properly. It's one thing to get an engine running, it's another to get it running properly and whilst listening by ear gives a fairly good indication on set up, I'd always have it mapped properly to get it right as every engine, ecu set up will be different even for the same engine types. This is my experience to date and so I hope it helps. Harv.

Are there any mechanics, auto elecies or turbo techies that can help me in finding an answer to questions 3 and 4 if no one knows the answer to questions 1 or 2? Please... Thanks all Harv.

More news on the QD diesel, it turns out it's the fly-by-wire version with intercooler! So I now need to source the intercooler, ECU and Wiring loom for it. I'm really chuffed about this! Questions though: 1 - does anyone know of an aftermarket ECU manufacturer for diesels? They're very common for petrol's I know. 2 - same questions for the throttle potentiometer 3 - as the QD32 is the big brother to the TD27, would the ECU, wiring loom and intercooler from this work on the QD? 4 - are there any differences between petrol and diesel intercoolers? If not I was considering taking one from an Imprezza wrx. Thanks Harv.

My engine arrived today. All very clean. But whereas I thought I was just buying a QD32... it appears to be the turbo version. So... RESULT! I thought i'd have to do a turbo conversion so i've saved myself a lot of hassle and money. I've also got back all of my interior bits after having been cleaned and painted black. They not only look a heck of a lot better black than the yuck brown as std but they look new now too! I'll post piccies later on. Harv.

I've had a bit of luck in sourcing a QD32 Diesel for my '86 Pathfinder [of which I'm really chuffed]. £375 all in for a fully dressed engine [61,000 miles] including gearbox. My question is this... I'm sure i've read that an inlet manifold from a 2.7 TDI will fit the QD32. I want to ask if anyone knows if this is true as I want to turbo my engine. thanks all! Harv.

... something that has just come to my mind which I haven't thought about before [and suddently realise that potentially I should!] is.... are the gear ratios the same for the petrol and diesel engined WD21 models? And, as I'm about to embark on a petrol to diesel engine swap will I actually need to change my ratios if they are different? Thanks Longfield

I have another question regarding this now... My main headlight switch clip was broken so it never staid in it's little socket. So I bough another switch and threw the original away... oh for stupid ideas. Anyway, the original switch had two prongs on the back. My new one has three; earth, relay and power. Given the original switch was 2 pronged, it has two wires; a light blue and a black with blue line. So my question is: which one is power, which one is earth? Also, what do I need to do to make the two wires fit the three pronged switch? Thanks all! Harv.

Just a quick question... if you have a two inch suspension lift, suspension companies recommenda + 2 inch shock length. I can understand the logic for this. So if you just have a two inch body lift without a suspension lift do you also need [or if you don't need it would it be recommended] to also have a + 2inch shock length and thus, if you have a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift you thus now need + 4inch shock length? thanks Harv.