keelhaul

I'm with nissandoms47, separating the strut from the spindle is quick and easy.

you could try and use a spark plug non fouler(here) to move the 02 sensor out of the exhaust stream. cheap trick might work

I had a nasty squeal on startup even with a new belt. I replaced the idler(tensioner pulley) and that solved the problem. my a/c idler started chirping a few months before so i changed both at the same time.

Brand new AC 2" springs give about 3 " of lift until they settle. Even though its a pain in the a#$ I would suggest breaking the springs in for a month before adding the spacer. Manual hubs would definitely be needed and since you would actually have 4" of lift for the first week your cv's might not survive an immediate off road trip. I have 2" springs and 1" spacer on my 02 and it works great I have a little extra weight on the front which sags it down a bit

There is an adjuster nut under the ebrake lever. you have to remove little plastic piece directly under lever and use 10mm deep socket with extension. this adjusts the cable and not the brake. you should be able to pull up e brake 6-8 clicks after adjusted. adjuster in brake drum could also be the problem though

I replaced mine with a $240 napa reman. It came with the pulley on so I think it is pressed on. Pretty easy swap once you find the bolt hiding behind the pulley.

There has been many times I would rather winch back than forward. I have been thinking of getting a 5 or 6 thousand at the back as well, and as long at the winch mount ties together the two channels like the receiver hitches do, there shouldn't be a problem. I was thinking of mounting mine foot forward(or backward in this case) so it can be tucked up higher.

One of my outer cv boot clamps fell off so i put a new one on and the crimped part was too high which caused it to hit the ball joint area every revolution. I hammered it down and no more noise.

front and rear studs are different lengths. I believe the front one is too short for the rear.

I had to use 2 camber alignment bolts per side to get it right. Now that the springs have settled I could probably get away with 1 per side. I have read that some people just enlarge the holes to allow for adjustment, but I am not sure how well that works or how well that holds adjustment. As for the rear springs, it was easy to remove the stock weak springs but a little more tricky to install new ac springs. To install them I took the bumpstop off and installed springs with the bump stop just sitting inside the spring. After the spring was installed i wiggled a ratchet and extension through the spring and reattached the bumpstop. Some people just leave the bumpstop off. I did not have to undo any brake lines or anything else.

Here is what i did for my winch mount. I cut the stock tow points and welded them to the the plate so i could bolt it on the bottom side as well. The pinch seam makes mounting a pain but I didn't think grinding the seam flat was a good idea. I don't know if the little U piece spanning the gap was necessary but it made me feel better.

for the first 2 months mine topped out over everything and now it rarely tops out.

I see the benefit in having DRL's from a safety perspective. But I don't think it is worth $300 to replace Nissan's POS module. I have seen this same problem a couple times around the forumss with the DRL's. IMO DRL modules should be warrantied for life just like seatbelts. I will continue to run with my lowbeams on whenever my automatic lights dont turn on(which is seldom under canada's short overcast winter days). DRL are not really enforced in Alberta by police or through safety inspections as far as I know. BTW I didn't mean to start fights just trying to pass on some money saving knowledge.

For years I have had problems with headlights coming and going, mostly the right side high and low beam. Recently both right side lights went out and wouldn't come back on. Being a cheapskate and not wanting to pay $300 for new module I decided to bypass it. I did not take pictures but I thought i would share what I learned. The way I did it was break apart the module case for access to circuit board. I de-soldered the circuit board from the plug-in front piece. I then soldered 4 inch covered wires between the contacts on the back side of front piece. After I was done I simply plugged it back in to the 3 plugs and I now have all my lights minus the daytime running lights. Daytime running lights are law in Canada but I dont care. Below is a schematic showing which points to jump.

My 02 also has intermittent dash lights and right side high beam. I figured it was either the daytime running light control or the smart entrance control unit. Now I figure it is the daytime running lights. Thanks trainman. Since your missing tail lights and interior lights I think the Smart entrance unit might be the problem if your pathy equipped with the automatic lights.

I was thinking of getting a redtop optima but nismojunky thinks a yellowtop might be better. So I thought I would get some more opinions. I want the best battery that money can buy. Well, around $200 I guess. And the biggest that will fit in my 02 pathfinder. Thanks. and thanks nismojunky I was not aware of yellowtops

they fit on my 02 with factory 16's

I had mine out when I did my clutch on my 2002. It wasn't too hard to get the 3 bolts(2 from back and 1 from front). I only pulled it clear of bellhousing and it was a pain moving it around and lining it back up. I also had the tranny mount removed and tranny lowered but I don't think that made starter removal easier or harder. I think it could be a DIY but You will probably swear a bit. For the top bolt from the front I used 2 feet of extension starting from under the rad support.

I have ARB envy

Have you found the problem yet? I am curious. Even with the VQ problems I still think it is a great engine. While most inline engines start sucking wind at 4000rpm that is when the VQ shines right up to 6000+rpm. I have seen many vq engines with high miles that still run great. I have also seen many high mileage jeeps that run...

Not the prettiest fender flares but the price was right. 3" hd pacers

I have not yet attempted this fix but I plan to. My 02 pathy uses about 1-2 L every 6000km depending how I drive. The primary crankcase ventilation valve is in the rear of the passenger side valve cover. Inside the valve cover from the pvc valve are baffles that get plugged with oil sludge and cause the crankcase to pressure up and you get oil blow-by. Mine does not smoke(yet) or run like crap. From the symptoms you described I would first do a cylinder compression check so you don't waste your money. To replace the valve cover I think you have to disassemble most of the top of the engine. I also think the updated valve cover includes the pcv valve when purchased.

I have read that replacing the passenger side valve cover(including pcv valve) will help with some oil usage issues and low end rattle. If it is using excessive oil and running like a total POS I don't know if that would help. A compression check would tell you if it's rings or valves that are screwed. If it was ran low on oil for too long it might be too late.

did you use a torch to remove rubber bushings? if so then that may have weakened the steel and or welds.

If I ever hit anything hard enough to shear that bolt head off, then the bolt head is the least of my problems. I would be more concerned with knocking the entire door through. I don't do a lot of rock crawling and try to avoid impact with the skidplates. I use the plates more for protection than as a tool to skid over obstacles. I do agree that they are probably weaker than one without a door but I like having an oil filter access.