keelhaul

exactly!! I don't really need the regulator because the pressure switch kicks out at 105 but i hooked it up anyway as a backup so I don't blow my locker seal. I am going to find a straw asap thanks for the tip. I opened up the cover and it stinks like gear oil. (one of the worst smells IMO)

wear safety glasses! Gas in the eye hurts

Thanks good point on my locker line. maybe I will put some of that protective wire wrap or something on there until I install all those valves properly. The tank underneath is a 1/2 gallon viair tank so my compressor doesn't run every time i engage the locker. It takes 25 seconds to fill up to 105psi which gives me 10 or so locker engagements before compressor kicks in at 85 psi. It then takes 10 seconds to go from 85 to 105. In this scenario I do not think heat would be a problem. If I am filling tires the access panel would be removed so there would be better ventilation in there. I experienced my first gear oil burp on Saturday. I had just drove 20 miles down the highway then pulled off onto the trail head, stopped, and engaged my locker to charge up tank(locker and compressor are wired together) and when I disengaged the locker I could hear the oil coming out so I stuck a rag under it. Is that bad for the solenoid? I have two 12 gauge 3-wire cables run under the truck one for my compressor and one for my roof lights both fused. oh ya it is really loud! Better since I added rubber isolators to where I bolted compressor and sound insulation where I could put it. But still really loud. The MV-50 is the harley of electric compressors though

I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. It doesn't open as much as I planned due to clearance at the crossmember but it opens enough to get at the filter.

I know, I am a little slow getting pics up.

here's where I put mine. The block of wood and zipties holding the manifold was supposed to be temporary but that was over a month ago. If you do bolt it to any steel make sure you use rubber isolators to reduce the noise

I put my mv-50 compressor in the back compartment. The panels are pretty easy to pop off. I cut most of the plastic out from the inside of the compartment then ran 2 pieces of 1" angle iron across from the rear fender sheetmetal to the back by the taillight. I also have a drain plug or something at the bottom of the fender. I used this to run a larger power cable and my air lines. Ill post pics if I can

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What all did you do for the pcv maintenance? From what I understand the passenger valve cover has baffles that lead to the pcv valve. These baffles become plugged with sludge and build-up, causing oil consumption. I have read that attempts to clean the valve cover pcv valve area did not work but the entire replacement of the valve cover has cured oil consumption problems for many people.

I have an 02 VQ with 130 000 km and it loses anywhere from 0.5-2 liters every 6000km depending on how rev happy I get. I found that the only way to get an accurate oil reading is to park in the exact same spot every time and let it sit overnight. I have read that replacing the passenger side valve cover(w/pcv) will help with oil consumption. I am thinking about doing this but I believe it involves taking the intake manifold, fuel rail off to get valve cover out.

It sounded like a bomb going off. Make that 2 bombs. I think I woke the kids! After crossing muddy water then pressure washing(thoroughly soaking my drums), I parked my Pathy for 2 hours with the e-brake on in sub zero temps. I had to use lo-range to break the brakes free. I have had this happen before but not nearly as bad as today and I am pretty sure that noise was my drums sticking to my shoes. I do think there is more to it than just me being stupid. Earlier today I had a locker installed and when I picked it up my E-brake did not work. They said they moved my axles and brakes out of the way as an assembly so it should not need adjustment. They then adjusted my brakes with first the handbrake adjustment and then the adjusters through the backing plates. Since then, the E-brake was sometimes really tight then looser other times. Then I filled my brakes with mud and water. What is a good method for adjusting brakes? I drove 20 miles after I washed it, shouldn't the brakes be dry by then? Has anyone else experienced frozen brake on a passenger vehicle. p.s. My truck is parked outside in gear without any e-brake.

My locker is in and I am very impressed so far. I tested on a twisty hill that that has previously stopped me dead while in 4wd. I made it up in 2wd(locked) without spinning a wheel! I carried on down the trail through some sloppy mud, forded a couple mudholes and made it out the otherside for the first time. Thinking I was invincible I then proceeded to sink myself in the farmers field. Nearest tree...500ft, so much for the winch. As we waited the half hour for recovery, the mud I had sprayed all over froze solid, which made my door impossible to open from the outside. I also stepped out of my shoe in the mud and and ended up with 2 muddy soakers. What a blast! Worst part... I forgot my camera. It sounds like your problem was similar to mine RWC5S2 except apparently they used bottle jacks up and down to wiggle it. They were also considering putting a come-a-long on the pinion(they said they didn't). I haven't looked but I have at lease one grade 8 bolt in place of stud and nut. The gears seems to run quiet but I am losing air between the solenoid and the locker. I had it locked for 20 minutes and it didn't kick the compressor(0.5 gallon tank) in but it was close. I will have to soap test the fitting and I guess the fill plug? Anyone have experience with how well the air seals inside hold up. oh ya rear brakes. hmm I should start new one I guess?

From what I understand they got all the nuts off a without problem. It was when they tried to slide the 3rd member out over the studs that it hung up and damaged the studs. Anyway today they said they are just about done. That is, if they don't have to machine the axles? In the instructions that came with the locker it said some axles are required to be machined. It didn't say which h233b's needed this just that some did. I hope mine don't or I am walking all weekend:(

i cut a rectangular piece about 4"x6" and then braced the inside by welding flat bar around the inside of the hole. I then made a hinge out of a piece of pipe and a round bar. At the top I drilled a hole through the door and welded a nut onto the back side of the flat bar. I think my little access door turned out pretty strong. The flat bar welded around the perimeter of the hole prevents the door from being pushed in. I'll post pics if I get my truck back today

They have been pretty good about it so far. They told me before I booked my truck in that they have never put an ARB in a Nissan before. I was quoted 4-6 hours labor whether it takes them longer or not since the manager felt they shouldn't charge people to learn new things. So with the 6 hours today and whatever it takes them tomorrow I guess I am glad we agreed on a set price. I have the worst luck when it comes to somebody other than me working on my stuff. At first I thought I was just paranoid but it seems wherever I go I get the most careless guy in the shop working on my ride. The last time I paid for an oil change I asked them to check the diff oil, and what do I see when I start spying through the glass? The F%^$n tech pulling with all his might on a breaker bar on my diff plug IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. sigh I don't care how long it takes them to do my locker as long as the gears are set up good and it doesn't leak air. The last time I set up gears they lasted 6 months

I guess I should give credit where credit is due! Great write-up I just wish I read it more thoroughly

I took my 02 into "the gear center", which is an arb authorized dealer and installer, to have my locker put in. It took them from 10am to 4pm to remove the 3rd member from the axle housing. They said it was stuck on there and that most of the studs got stripped in the process of removal. Does anyone have experience removing Nissan 3rd members? Is it that difficult? I'm not sure whether to be happy someone else is wrestling with it or mad that I didn't attempt it myself. I have pulled third members off other vehicles with no difficulty. The only thing I can think of is something is bent like the housing or the the 3rd member even though my pathy's been treated well and I haven't hit the diff or anything like that.

I tore my 2002 5-speed down to attempt the fix last summer and found some butterfly valves that I thought were the powervalves. I took off the top and bottom plenum chambers(no valves within), and way down in the intake manifold were 6 butterfly valves with 2 screws each. I now see that those were in fact the swirl control valves and not the powervalves as depicted in Bowtied's pictures? Since I did not have the intake manifold gasket and did not want to remove the fuel rail I just counted screws, cleaned out the intake plenum and reassembled, and all the while feeling that I failed in my objective to locktite the powervalve screws. I guess since I don't have them I didn't fail! I wonder if the lack of the powervalves in the 5 speed VQ's is part of the 10hp difference between the MT and AT engines. BTW great post and links

I have just ordered a set of Green diamond retreads (here). I think they are based on the geolander MT. I ordered 5 tires sized 265/75r16 at $170 a piece which is a good price even with the added shipping. I hope they turn out to be a decent tire, even though i pretty much bought them for the embedded bits of carbide. I am a sucker for gimmicks. HA

I have the ac skids as well and I am not worried about bottoming out anymore. I read a post somewhere how the center skid, if hit hard enough, will contact the the oil pan and damage it. I have thought about adding some sort of support to prevent that but have not yet done it. If piece of mind is what you want on mild trails then they are great. If your into rock crawling I would think they would get damaged pretty easy since they are just flat steel with no structural bends or folds

great info! I was under the impression that pre-2000 had 31 spline. I am glad to be wrong. I know where there is a set from a 99 pathy for a good price!

Any idea if the 00-04 Xterra H233B has the 33 spline axle? I am pretty sure the 96-2000 Pathfinder has 31 splines. I would prefer to keep the 33 spline axles (which i think I have) because I am adding an arb locker and I don't want to downgrade the axles. I realize both would be strong enough but I already ordered the 33 spline ARB(rd24).

Thanks PDCCD. I have done some searching but apparently not enough. I had thought i found the info herenissan axles but it was wrong on where hg46's can be found. I see now that older r200a from pathfinders can be swapped into my 2002. My only other question(hmmm should I search before I ask, nah I'll search after) is--- What donor vehicle would have a 33 spline 4.636 ratio h233b that would swap into my 2002 r50? My guess would be an 02-04 Xterra. I hate to be a pain but i want some confirmation before i go 3rd member shopping Thanks again

I thought I had it all figured out that I need to source 4.636 gears with 33 splines from a 2001+ pathfinder. I now realize it is not that easy. It turns out that all pathy's with the vq35 engine are 4.363 gears. Would a rear 3rd member with 4.636 gears from 2001+ Xterra work? Has the front r200a changed throughout the years? Could I use a front r200a with 4.636 gears from a 2000 pathfinder? I plan on putting 32" tires on and would like to get the final drive ratio closer to stock. I upgraded from factory aluminum with 245/70r16(29.5") to steelies with 245/75r16(30.5") tires and the loss of power was noticeable. I am now planning on mounting 265/75R16(31.6") Thanks

Right on! Thanks. I pulled axleshafts off a toyota once that were pressed in and it took a forklift, a come-along, and a sledgehammer. i am happy to hear r50's should be easier to pull.