95shakinPF

Good luck slash! Take your time...dont rush, and you should do fine. Oh, and lots of :coffee!: !

I prefer Wix oil filters but sometimes I have to settle with a fram if out of Wix. Last oil change I went with GTX 20/50 instead of the usuall 10/40. Mileage is actually just at 86,000. I havent tried any additives yet as I wondered which one to go with (waaaay too many choices!). Ive been told to try Marvel Mystery oil (or automatic trans fluid which is what I think MMO is anyway) in the crankcase for a few days then change the oil again. I figured I would check with you guys to see if someone may have tried something that did work. Thanks for the replies. Im going to try the Seafoam idea along with a few oil changes and see what happens. Ill repost how she takes it!

Now that I have survived the nightmare of replacing the exhaust manifold studs on my 95, Ive got another noisey issue! At an idle I have a few lifters tapping when the engine is cold. Usually when its cranked 1 will tap for about 5 seconds then quit and another will take over for 5 seconds. It does this back and forth until the engine is hot and will finally quit. I was wondering if you guys could suggest things to try as oppossed to replacing lifters. Thanks!

Your absolutely right! I just finished putting the wheels on her and fired her up. She's a whole lot more quiet than before, but still a slight leak when accelerating. I can live with it until time for an overhaul(when and if). It'll be easier to take care of whilst the motors out.

WHAT A F#%KN NIGHTMARE!!!! I had 1 broken stud on the driver side and 1 broken stud on the passenger side to begin with. After removing the manifolds, I had 3 broken on driver side and 2 on the passenger side. I have a 95 2wd without a body lift and lemme tell you...this job was a bitch! All 3 studs were drilled and extracted on the driver side using an electric drill and a 90degree drill chuck from Home Depot. Although it was a PITA to get in there, I finally got in and got them extracted. However,on the passenger side, I had to "fashion" a drill extension to the drill bit to drill the studs on the passenger side. One went just fine, just as easy as the driver side studs. Now on to the very last broken stud. Unfortunately, the hole I drilled did not sit center of the broken stud so the extractor ended up breaking off into the broken stud!! UUUGGGHHH!!! I then proceeded to drill out the broken extractor...NO DICE! Theres just not enough room for the tools I was using, so I decided to let that one alone. I have read of others running into this same problem and having to leave 1 broken stud behind. After all this fighting (not to mention the small fortune in tools for this particular job), It just sucks not to have ALL new studs for the exhaust! Oh well, If I ever have to pull the engine for some reason I guess Ill get it out and replace it then. Thanks to all for the write up, hope others have better luck than I did on the passenger side! Maybe...Just,maybe...the new gaskets and bolts will seal regardless of the 1 missing stud and I wont have an exhaust leak anymore!. Wish me luck!

Thanks Simon! Ill be attempting this in a few weeks after replacing the front end parts that are bad. My patty looks exactly like the one in silvertons pic. Front end slammed! At the moment, Im tackling the exhaust studs. I finally got tired of listening to tick,tick,tick!! Im ready for a quiet ride!!

I have a "rotting egg" smell from my exhaust from time to time. Not always. Ive been told it is prolly the Cat. Is there ant truth to that? Why would it be intermittent? Is there a easy fix or do I have to replace the cat?

Hey guys, I need to attempt this due to the passenger front sagging. I cannot see any of the pics in 88's write-up. Have these pics been deleted? Thanks for any help.

Change...

I've always called it "Muddin" However I've heard a few of the younger crowd call it "Bouncing in da woods". Or more like "Bouncing" off the tree's

+1 excellent advise my1path!

FYI- I just had my alternator tested(1995 XE 2WD)and actual output of my alternator was 48 amps(at an idle)!! Yes the alternator is good. This just goes to show you that the alternator may not put out all that it is rated to and yes a capacitor is a great idea if your having light dimming problems when the subs hit. Even one good amplifier can have a significant draw on your electrical system and draw needed power from other electrical components. Colbywan: isnt that stupid that the lesser amp alternator(stk for the pathy)is more expensive than the stronger alternator(for the maxima)? I also found this when I was going to replace my alternator a year ago. Ended up not doing it yet...I will have to when I add my second amplifier. By the way, What year maxima alternator did you use(I forgot)?

AMEN TO THAT, brother! I'm going on 40yrs old and still got 2-12" woofers beating in my back! Gotta luv the ole' rock! As for the door panels...just take your time ,remove a few screws and then pull the door panel with a good tug. They are held in with those plastic push pins and if you happen to break one(more than likely will not tho) They can be replaced very cheaply and at any autozone type place will have an assortment pack in the "HELP" line of products. Just ask anyone working there and they will know what your refering to. Good luck with your endeavor and let us know how it turns out...

K9 thanks for posting that info for me. I didnt get a chance to look at it before I fixed my problem just before a 100 mile road trip I had to make yesterday. Actually the battery drain was due to someone (probably my 10yr old son) not closing the passenger door completely and causing the dome light to stay on all night long! But I had the battery,charging system,and starter all checked anyway and everythings back to normal. AGAIN THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S SUGGESTIONS AND IDEAS!!!!

Guys Thanks for all the thoughts and advice. I fixed it yesterday. Kingman nailed it! It was the Full throttle detection switch. I pulled it out and and pressed it about 200 times,cleaned the contacts REAL good,re-installed it and WAH-LAH!!!! @^$% works again. Dont know what a drained battery did to make it quit working but its fixed now!! Thanks everyone!!!!

Honestly I'm pretty sure thats the only problem here Is the passing gear. It shifts fine normally and the O/D button still works but the thing wont shift into "passing gear" when you floor it. I'll check to see if theres a switch there and report back. Thanks for all the input guys.

Being a stereo nut I would love to help you but my truck is a 95 therefore its a different body style and the locations will probably be different! My original equipment was all clarion in my 95. Since I purchased it I have eliminated ALL factory equipment AND wiring and started fresh. I really urge you to do the same. You will eliminate headaches in the future if you do,trust me I've been there. Just for reference my truck originally had 2 amps 1-for front speakers and 2nd- for rear speakers. They were located inside the pass rear cargo lower trim. I also wired a sony head unit through my original amps at 1st and it actually worked for a while then I started having problems with the front amp quiting intermittently and eventually fried my radio! This is my reason for urging you to BYPASS all original equipment and run all new.

TRUST ME I KNOW THIS ALL TOO WELL!!!! Had me walking around like a 95 yr old man for days! No, I wont do that anymore! That hatch is HEAVY!!! I now use the stick method!!

Only when I'm typing will it be "pathy" or "pathfinder" Because usually when me or the fiancee talk about our rides its always "are we taking yours or mine". Sometimes I refer to the ole nickname "shaker" Hence the username. But not really much anymore. Gotta grow up sometime...I guess! Old fart!

Update: I've just returned from O'reileys auto parts. According to their machine, the battery is fully charged and sits at 14.4V. The alternator is charging at 14V also with a 48amp output while running. Although I think that is a little low the worker says it is normal and ok. He also checked the starter's draw on the system and said its fine also. I checked all fuses under hood and dash and all are good. I also inspected fuse links at positive battery terminal and all of those look fine. So I guess I can now rule out the battery and charging system affecting the tranny. Does the E-A/T switch on the dash control something internal in the tranny or is there a control box or the like externally? What tells the transmission to shift into "passing gear" when you floor it? As I said,it shifts from dead stop through all gears but once it is in O/D it will not downshift until you actually stop(or slow to a crawl). Do you guys think this is just a coicidence that this happened when my battery got drained and now my transmission is starting to fail? Again, thanks for all your input and suggestions. It is greatly appreciated.

Yeah...HOOTUS.....Thats FUNNY!!!

No MZ CEL is not on. Kinda wish it was...I'd have something to go with. Thanks 88, and kingman, I'm headed to get it checked right now. I'll report back.

Thanks for the input guys I think the battery is ok now because I drove it about 60 miles last night and it has been cranking fine now. However I will go by one of the auto parts places to let them double check and see if it is holding at 14 or so volts. I had assumed since all was fine day before yesterday that the shifting problem was due to low voltage somehow. Good advice on the vacuum lines tho. I will be looking into that tomorrow, early. Are you guys familiar with the E-A/T switch that I refered to? What does this actually operate? I've got a suspicion that this is somehow related to my problem,but not sure what it is really for.

Hey Guyz n Gals, its been a while since I've posted(got a new to us house and been remoldeling). Yesterday morning about 8am I tried to crank my truck(95 2wd A/T) to find the door wasnt closed completely so the dome light stayed on all night and drained the battery. I pulled our ford ranger over to it and jumped it off and she fired right up. I left it running approximately 30 mins to let the battery recharge and then turned it off. I tried cranking it again to see if the battery had in fact charged up and it fired off...problem solved I think. Later that day at 4pm I get in and try to start it and its dead again. Again I jump it off and it fires right up. This time I drive to town and back to get the rpm's up high enough to charge the battery fully. While I'm driving I notice the pathfinder hasnt near the power as usual. I turn down the music and start listening and trying to figure out whats going on. I find that its shifting strangely. It wont down shift when you "get on it" It seems to shift through all gears just fine when taking off from a stop, but once in overdrive it wont downshift into"passing gear". I did notice also that the button on the dash for A/T Power/Economy doesent light up when you stomp it like it used to. I did switch it to power and it does the same thing...no downshift. If you stop at a stop sign or traffic light it does take off from 1st gear again. It just wont downshift while driving. Has anyone experienced something like this before? What should I check? I already checked the A/T fluid and it is full. What could a dead battery do to affect the transmission from shifting correctly?...Im confused! Please help with some ideas. Thanks

Dammit boy!! looks like you were a bit bored and decided to play "lets find out how a pathfinder is built" That night! I also mounted my amp to the subwoofer box. Kinda figured if I gotta remove the sub box for extra capacity the amp can come out as well! Hello John, havent been around in a long while. Finally got most of the remodeling done on da house and got my internet back up and going, so I should be checking in a lot more from now on. Good to see you again...well see you in a sense.