Strato_54
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Posts posted by Strato_54
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Its supposed to only be one bolt per. a pack of 2 is all you need
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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6 hours ago, Tomek said:
Thank you for the detailed response, might be too much of an undertaking
I wouldnt say, as long as you can get the parts its an afternoon of work.
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It's not so much about vehicle height, rather the distance between the inside of the side wall and the bottom of the strut perch. I'm currently running a 265 75 16 on a 16x8 -6. I was really worried about going for that size with that weak of an offset, but I have about a 1/4" or more bewteen my tire and the strut. Anything larger than a 31 you will want to expect rubbing on the fender liners, and in my case remove the OEM front mud flaps/brackets.
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18 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
The right combo of extensions and a U joint can get it, as can the socket in the factory tool kit (assuming the R50 had the same tool kit as the WD21).
The look on my dads face when I showed him the tool bag with the #6 tool was priceless. Had it out and replaced in 5 minutes, and any other R50 owner that hasn't used it is missing out!
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If you're still running the factory mechanical cluch cooling fan, make sure the clutch is still in good condition. There should be some resistance when rotating by hand with the engine off. If you try to push it really fast and it keeps spinning, this is your issue. Does the engine maintain proper temp for a long time at idle with the A/C off? The fan should be able to keep the engine cool at idle for a long period of time with out over heating.
Its also possible the pressure sensor could be going faulty, and looking at a service manual diagram there isn't a temperature sensor for the refrigerant. (HA-31)
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If the system hasn't been charged since factory, its possible the pressure isn't as high as it used to be. My brother's WD21 will blow warm then cold repeatedly while hearing the compressor kicking on and off. This is usually the sign of low refrigerant. Heat also expands, so its possible when it gets warm the refrigerant is getting to a high enough temperature for the system to "function". The VG has a weird adapter harness so the connection might be loose on one of the plugs. Not 100% on the VQ, I'd have to look at my donor car to know for sure. Testing for 12V at the plug should give a pretty good indication on how the system is functioning. 12V should turn on the compressor, and 0V off.
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I believe this to be forum page Slart was referencing though.
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2 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
link doesnt work
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Hood, the front that meets the grille is a different shape.
Edit: It's pretty much every thing from the bottom of the windshield and front of the door, forward.
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My brother is running the Grabbers on his WD21 and they feel pretty good. No issues in the snow, and seems to be a pretty good road tire. He doesn't take it off roading much but I'd say its a solid tire. My dad and I are KO and KO2 fanboys so i'm always gonna say those. My factory size was a 235/70/15 and when my parents still owned it put a 235/75/15 BFG KO. That tire size isnt the same anymore now that i'm driving it, but the KO2 I have now are a dream everywhere except my wallet...
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The rear drum brakes do rub ever so slightly, but I'll only ever hear it if i'm sticking my head out the window and really trying to listen. You'll always have slight shoe/pad rub and it will make a faint scrubbing noise that you otherwise should not hear INSIDE while driving. If you have an LSD in your pathy then that would help explain for the wheel hop/kicking when turning full lock. LSD's can cause wheel slip if they're too tight or the conditions are just right, but even on my open diff pathy I've felt this before.
If you have no vertical, horizontal play or binding in your bearings theres a good chance theyre probably good. Paranoia can lead you to thinking the worst but at the end of the day its all mechanics, and even my elbow at 20 makes some grinding sometimes lol
On 2/17/2024 at 10:21 PM, Slartibartfast said:Strato's wheel offset is an interesting wrinkle to this. Changing the offset wouldn't change the angles, but it would change the curve of the paths they're on--evidently enough to get them closer to where the wheels are pointing.
My theory behind this is the wider stance gives it more "leverage" to keep the wheel down and planted on the ground. But since doing the lift I've realized the AC 2" coils are stiff af. With having less front corner dive around corners it wants to keep that weight over that opposite wheel, my pathy feels like a race car around some corners even with the lift. I'm also not as wide as most R50 though only running a -6 offset no spacer.
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I'm going to say this is normal because my parents are the original owners of my 97, and when I started driving it my dad always warned me about taking corners too fast for that reason. Since getting some Offset wheels and the lift there is no more of this wheel hop at all. My dad would say it was always on the right hand turns it would hop the most for him.
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Welcome! looks like you get quite the most out of your rig.
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My 97 had it, 1 full crack and it never let go. I ended up removing it in favour of electric fans. That looks better than what I had, but still wouldn't put my full trust into it.
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13 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
I'll bet the tank off one of those oilless pancake compressors would fit in there real nice.
I didn't even think of those! Just getting a compressor would be a lot cheaper than the full kit, and my fabrication skills do the rest. I would just run the air fitting to a welded plate on my bumper, or on a bracket some where tucked under for easy access. Not sure if I would run a fitting to my engine bay too, but that could be easy.
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I've been planning out the last few weeks, days even an on board air system. Lots of systems/kits use that spare tire hoist as a mounting point anyways. I don't have a spare under there, nor a tire carrier so I have lots of room for activites! I was looking at the Viair Quarter Duty kit on amazon. Still have to meassure and make sure everything will fit properly for that kit, but it should at only a 1.5 gallon tank.
A drop down tool box is a sweet idea! Even just bolting two metal tool boxes onto a frame then droping it from the chain hoist would be great. The fuel tank on the WD21 was in that same spot, so that could be feasable.
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I got a video of what it did on my way to the beach. This is just 2nd gear, doesn’t matter what gear I’m in
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It would make sense if it sends the info to speedo then the computer because when I tried playing with the cluster screws it feels like its fixed but comes back few days later. I've had this dash apart more times than I would like to admit.
Yes it is a manual, and it does start to act up when it doesn't see a speed signal. The response feels weird and it will let out massive pops and a few flames through the exhaust, more than it normally does on decel (lol). I dont think its mechanical, because it will jump up, down repeatedly sometimes instead of staying on. So for that maybe the current is enough push to get passed any corrosion once its at a higher signal? I've had it throw a code only 1 time but never again after that, only goes to pending.
I've tried playing with a few things, ut haven't gotten to a complete fix. Everything I touch fixes it for a few days or weeks then it comes back. I have not taken out the speed sensor yet though to check the gear, but that will be my next thing. It never used to turn off below that speed all the time, so thats why I never was pushed to check the gear.
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For the longest time now I've been fighting an issue where below 30-40kmph my speedo will sometimes just stop working. I'll start my car in the morning, start driving with no working speedo to get out to the main road, once I get to mid 3rd it will wake up. Sometimes it will just fall once I go below 50 but usually it will stay working. It definetly is not bump related as its consistant with stopping in that speed range. If i'm below that speed range it will just start bouncing or fall. Sometimes I get a pending p0500 but never a full code.
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I definitely need to fix the faded bumpers now. Gonna be a fun winter
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Are the 2003 rotors and calipers a direct bolt up? Granted you have the wheel sizing for it? Looking on rock auto that looks like the case in the info pages for each year. I am looking to upgrade, the bigger tires are deffinetly heavier
edit: read it again and saw it fits right in. I do plan on doing this soon my rotors are real bad
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Clean looking rig! When I was configuring my lift and looking at the different options, and what to look for when buying my stuff I watched @PathyDude17 videos on R50 suspension and helped a lot with figuring out what I wanted to go for
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If you want to flush out that oil, even just a splash of fresh oil down the fill tube will be enough to flush out the remaining oil.
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I went with the BOSCH cap on rock auto. Its a brand I know, and so far has been working fine. Same quality I would say as the cap that came off it or better. I think I saw a bosch brand distro when I talked to my local parts guy about other caps. Didn't have the cap in stock.
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KNOW that the valve cover gaskets are leaking?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Probably the best method, it will likely go towards the backside of the engine at the bottom corner of the head. Both sides on mine were pouring before the fix.