SCJax2018

I did notice when I fueled up the other day that the tank had some pressure when I unscrewed the gas cap.

Yes, the AC was running.

It wouldn't be a timing belt issue on that particular engine because the timing is extremely close and very unforgiving. Just one tooth off and it will barely stay running if it even starts. Two tooth off and you can pull the heads because it crashed the valves. I don't really know a whole a lot about automatic transmissions, but mine had a wire that had come loose in a plug on the side of the transmission and that thing was doing all kinds of crazy stuff until I got that wire fixed.

This morning I drove my 96 Pathfinder LE 3.3L about sixty or so miles. I stopped and shut off the engine and about two seconds later this barely noticeable noise came from under the hood and it sounded like a fog horn in an old movie or cartoon, but it only lasted a few seconds like it started and quit before you could say "What the ......". I am totally puzzled because I've never heard a noise like this come from under the hood, so I have no clue if it is a major issue to be concerned about or just a minor issue. The only thing I can think of that makes any sense is that it is some kind of vacuum leak on one of the vacuum canisters. Anyone got any idea what could be the cause?

I'm running 235 70R15 which is what it came with. So I should stay with the 4.6 then. Right now I have ungodly backlash so I'm fairly sure the gears are near shot, so I'm going to go ahead and order a set.

I got to replace the ring gear and pinion in my 96 LE two wheel drive. What is the gear ratio to go with? I don't want to be super high geared because I do pull a small trailer, but I down want to be geared low enough to pull a tractor trailer either. Does 5.13 sound about middle of the road?

I went to a local locksmith here where I live. Nissan wanted like $180 for the fob and $35 to program it which they were politely told where to put it. At the locksmith I paid like $45 for the fob and they gave me the directions how to program it and I programed it myself in less than a minute and a half. Very easy very idiot proof.

I have a 96 LE two wheel drive and I only average about 15 mpg mixed city and highway. As crazy as it sounds, my Pathfinder does not like Raceway gas. I filled up with Raceway gas a couple of times because it was four cents cheaper than anyone else and both times my engine ran like it had a semi-stopped up fuel injector. Topped off the tank, after running down below a half, at a local Shell and it smoothed right out. So the gas you are running may have something to do with the fuel economy.

I found some pretty good deals at AM Auto Parts. https://www.am-autoparts.com/

Looking for engine wiring harness for 96 Pathfinder with 3.3 V6.

How would that effect the tachometer? That also looks a lot bigger than 2200 ohm.

Could this conglomeration be my mystery resister? It is near the distributor and does look somewhat like a small relay through the tape.

Try AM Autoparts, they are pretty reasonable if they have the part and usually get it to you within a few days. https://www.am-autoparts.com/

On my 96, I'm not sure if it is just a trim piece or part of the luggage rack system itself, but right where it meets the windshield trim/gasket there was a rust hole about the size of a pencil up under the piece itself. In my case I was able to force it up enough to force some silicone sealant up under the trim piece and it stopped the leak on mine. Mine was leaking in the upper corner on the drivers side just above the windshield.

Keep us posted because the light by the rear hatch in mine doesn't work at all and the bulb is brand new. Not a huge issue to me right now, but eventually I would like to get it working again.

Glad you mentioned wiring because it totally slipped my mind. Obviously I have to have at least brake lights and turn signals. I have 2 inch Reese hitch stuff running out my ears, but need the receiver on the car.

Friend of mine says the 3.3 has a belt and he thinks the 3.5 has a chain, but he isn't 100% sure.

Where can I find a trailer hitch kit for my 1996 Pathfinder that is reasonably priced? Also, because I have never bought an actual kit before, what is a fair price for one? Ones I have been finding on line have been averaging $130 on up. This is one I have been eye on, https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Nissan/Pathfinder/1996/13088.html?vehicleid=1996997203

The guy said it was a resister taped to the wiring harness near the ignition coil, but my ignition coil is inside the distributor. Like I said, I undid the tape and plastic split tube and followed the wiring harness backwards to the T it makes and saw no sign of any kind of a resistor.

Have you checked for a possible loose wire?

I broke down and bought a new key fob which was not as expensive as I thought it would be and programming it was astonishingly simple. Here is a link to the directions based on model year. http://www.programyourremote.com/classified/pathfinder-browse-330.aspx

I have a tachometer flaking out. Done took it out of the dash and tightened up the screws like most of the YouTube videos say and it still does it, just not as bad. A person said in the comments of one of the videos that there is a resister taped to a blue wire in the wiring harness near the ignition coil. My coil is in the distributor, but I do have a blue wire in the harness connection to the distributor and I undid the tape and plastic split tube and followed the wire back for a ways and didn't find any resister. Does anyone know where this resister thing is at?

I don't know about Nissans, but the late 80's early 90's Mazda B-2200 would do that occasionally and what you had to do is disconnect the battery cable for 15 minutes and then reconnect and start the engine without pressing the gas and let idle for five minutes. I had to do that a few times with my old Mazda B-2200. It may be the same deal with the Nissans, but I'm not sure because I'm not too up on Nissans.

I have a 1996 LE with an automatic-overdrive transmission (not sure which one) and it has a crazy shifting issue. If I take off easy, it will shift through fine, but get down on it and it is like it is stuck in high gear until you hit about 30 to 35 and it works like it should. I replaced the fluid and screen in it, but the fluid wasn't really all that bad at all and there was very little crap on the screen or the magnet in the bottom of the pan. The change did make a little bit of difference for the better, but just minimal. Now this truck is supposedly sat for about three years before I bought it and it sat for nearly a year more before I got it running again and I've only put about ten miles on it since, so could this just be a sitting issue that will work itself out with a little time or is it something that needs to be addressed now?

Thank you!