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PathyDude17

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Posts posted by PathyDude17

    PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    tQbdxAg.jpg

     

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    just barely used the sliders today, and found this difficult obstacle, which highlighted my need for a locker. With how the trail approaches this 2-3 foot step at a 90* angle, I couldn’t keep all of either my rear or front end perfectly in traction. I feel like a front locker would’ve pulled me right over. I’ll have the money here to swing one soon, but I’m worried about install-I don’t think I can do it myself

     

     

    • Like 3

    Intermittent "dreaded P0021" code

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    3 hours ago, HappyCarGuy said:

    Hey there, folks!

     

    I looked into some of the forums, and most people are talking about bad camshaft sensors - to no luck, apparently. So, here is the low-down on the vehicle:

    - I just replaced the timing chain on my sister's 2004 (3.5l) Pathfinder. After replacement, the vehicle ran fine during the test run, until about halfway home, wherein it went into limp mode - no CEL. 

    - I made it back home, let the car sit for about a half hour, and it was fine. Delivered the vehicle to her, where she drove to work the next day with no issues, until on her way home (about a 20-30 mile highway commute). The car went into limp mode again. She took the car to her main mechanic, where he was unable to replicate the issue, but he checked that all timing was correct (I was a bit afraid that it may have jumped a tooth while the tensioners were building pressure). Keep in mind, this vehicle idles perfectly, and will drive for a few miles now before the it goes into limp mode. No bad clicking, knocking, or 'baddie sounds." We just replaced BOTH VVT solenoids and replaced the oil (again) with a new filter. Still goes into limp mode, and still has the dreaded intermittent P0021 code. My sister, at this point, is ready to just trade the car in (and I would FULLY support getting this gremlin out of her possession). We were going to try a few things, and gather some recommendations before we do so, though. 

     

    My next step will be to switch camshaft sensors. If the code now switches to P0011 (I think that is the correct code), I will know that the camshaft sensor is bad. If it doesn't, though, there will be no need to throw more money at it (though it could still be a wiring harness issue). Other than that, I don't exactly know where to begin diagnostics with this. I feel like we have done the majority of 'cheap' fixes to solve the issue. I told her that I am happy to tear back in, and replace the camshaft/and or phaser if need be. I would like to use that as an absolute last resort, though. Is there any way to test that a phaser is going bad? I have noticed tiny fluctuations of RPMS (almost as if the RPM gauge is 'vibrating' for lack of better words?), which makes me think that the sensor is on it's way out, or the sensor is picking up on incorrect magnetic rpms of the phaser. 

     

    What do you all think? Any suggestions? 

    This is a real shot in the dark, but my vehicle has gone into limp mode 3 times in the 9 months that I’ve had it. Each time that’s happened, it’s been on the same day that I do a sloppy change from Reverse to Drive (put it in drive while the car is still rolling back). But at the same time, without fail, if I properly shift the car, it doesn’t go into limp mode. This could have nothing or everything to do with your problem, but it’s my only frame of reference for dealing with this. 

    02_Pathy's build/shenanigans thread

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    1 hour ago, 02_Pathy said:

    Fun little trip up to the hills to run on some mild trails, 1 rock wanted to high five my door, now I'm buying rock sliders lol4e7c5977e6526108608ddf44f2d9ba67.jpg46c2c3db35a50edaaeab809b772462e0.jpgd32d9233a3c0944e21c15355639aa873.jpgac90c5d54f26c9b9e87bb9a3f127623e.jpg6b5a90684b540e8dfa8a68c96b621200.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     

    I mean sliders are cool and all, I can see how they might be useful, but are you sure your not just tryna copy me?:lol: 

     

    Looks good dude. Can’t wait to see you get some sliders! And for our rigs to get more similar again?

    • Like 2

    Random picture of your R50

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    6 hours ago, oneninty8d said:

    I’m new and I’m not entirely sure how to tag a picture, but PathyDude17 that picture is incredible


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks! Shot on iPhone 8 lol. Use “@“ and then start typing the username, click on the suggestions. There’s also a “quote” button at the bottom of each post

    Check my lift plans? 1997 Pathfinder

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    19 hours ago, chrisfromthelc said:


    I'm pretty sure your build thread is where I got the idea from! :D

    I might just end up ordering a 1/2" and 1" spacers for the front...start with the 1/2" and see where it sits after a while. I'll be replacing everything (shocks, springs, etc) at once, so I may not even have to go 1". I'm also concerned with flexing the CV axles too much, so starting slow with the 1/2" might be the way to go.

    AC coils are an option for the front, there’s a brief discussion of OME vs AC springs in my “R50 projects” thread- some people with heavy front bumpers have had good experiences with OME springs, other people prefer or wish they had chosen AC springs. It’s all about what you want, the AC springs will sag less under weight and ride stiffer. I have them and love them. That’s not to say I also didn’t enjoy driving @02_Pathy‘s rig on well-broken (2 years old?) in OME springs

    Fuel economy

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    39 minutes ago, Astrorami said:


    I wonder if your higher gas mileage has anything to do with your car being 2WD??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    No front diff, no cv axles, no front driveshaft. That’s some real weight reduction 

    PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    YhaDV8N.jpg

     

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    I added the pre-facelift bar that attaches to the front diff and front unibody. Im

    hoping it keeps dirt out of my front end, I’ll probably bolt on some steel to add more coverage (and if I’m lucky it will help me push through snow?). I also now have two CV axles from the local JY, although the one on the right is not OEM. Oh well. I was thinking about rebooting but honestly the boots seem  to be in good shape.

    PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    10 hours ago, herotrooper said:

    Oooooo boy. Might have to put my welding skills to the test this winter. 

     

    I’ve been wanting sliders since I pitched my factory mammoth steps, and these look wicked!

     

    FYI, looks like a bit of bare metal still showing. You should probably spray bomb that so you don’t get rust, or if you have, disregard. Lol

    Thanks! I generously sprayed around, but I’ll double check the frame rails and the hard to reach spots

    PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    8 hours ago, RainGoat said:

    Just for clarity:
    $250 67” DIY kit [Amazon]
    $250 Welder@$65/hr assembling kit & welding on truck
    $500 Total

    Can you take some pics of the mounting points?

    And then a $30 gusset kit, weld job was $220 exactly, so $550. 

    bcaYGjN.jpg

     

    this is how he mounted them. He welded the brackets on and then the sliders to the brackets. He opted out on gusseting at the frame rail and instead gusseted at the first horizontal bar. 

    • Like 4

    PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    14 minutes ago, TroyButler said:

    Still work good as a step?

    The way I have them mounted, they could not work better. Perfect step up to the roof rack or a good middle step to get to the top of the tire. My shorter (5’0”-5’-6”) friends use them to get in and out of the car, at 6’3/4” (that’s the height on my medical documents) they’re a little awkward to use and I usually step over them. Ultra perfect placement in my opinion 

    • Like 1

    02_Pathy's build/shenanigans thread

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    5 hours ago, 02_Pathy said:

    Been awhile since I've been on here. Truck is still alive and did some more maintenance like new wheel bearings, U joints for the front driveshaft and brake caliper. Also I was able to pick up some HID retrofits off a guy who was parting out his R50 with a ton of other goodies. After installing the retrofits the clear corners seemed off to me so I went ahead and used a heat gun to melt the glue to take them apart and painted the inside gloss black. Imo it looks a lot bettera629533044cd962fe69b9c10eff7334d.jpg3e9d11aa4928b89b6183691cb436c4dd.jpg8e386ef680e92906ed2f3aebff172732.jpga1a70a954bdf5a01680c72b6da72f9cf.jpgdc0bcbcf4f59576736283ed1453573d0.jpg61ab1f847822bcc265eb060fe68a416e.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     

     

    Someday I want to be like you. Looking good as always dude

    • Like 1

    I guess I'm one of you now.

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by PathyDude17

    9 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

    I hope that didn’t come off smartass. I was literally asking. Is two inches of lift enough to be able to take advantage of the benefits of the 29 inch bilsteins? I’m trying to make the best of what I can with this Q being that it’s only 2wd. She’s been pretty capable already all things considered. For the short term due to budget constraints I was thinking about going with the f250 kyb gr2s....but I’d also like to know what my best options are here. I haven’t seen too many people build out 2wds 

    Well, here’s some of the math if you weren’t aware of the numbers: Stock shock length:24” F250: 26”. The shock doesn’t sit straight up and down, so a 2” longer shock doesn’t give you 2” more of downward articulation. As I understand it, going to an F250 shock only maintains or slightly disimproves on stock articulation, and it’s not like OEM suspension is a .5” from popping a coil either. So, my understanding is that with a true 2” spring lift, you should have no real issues going beyond 26” on shocks, as long as you extend the necessary components. Any of the LR options should be able to run 29’s. KYB should have some shocks in that length. It’s all about figuring out what length is gonna make you lose a coil, but I bet you could run 26” shocks on OE springs, let alone a 2” lift. Other option is sell the Q and get a 4x4 before you get in too deep, because other than an rear locker and good tires, you can’t do much to make it more capable

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