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PathyDude17

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Posts posted by PathyDude17

  1. I think I’m missing the logic of cutting down the spring.... if the bushing is wearing down, then it’s probably moving excessively, ie, something’s not tight. The 26” shocks that you’re currently using have been used for years on similar levels of rear lift with no known issues. 
     

    Additionally, no matter what spring you put in the rear, your suspension will still travel and move the same as it always has, thus moving your shock in the same manner as before. The problem is with the shock- it’s bushings, or how it’s been attached.

     

    Just my $0.02

    • Like 1
  2. Not to jump the gun on the shocks and shock mount info, but one thing I already do know about the 33 185569's is that they're not suitable for pre facelift shock mounts unless you have alot of lift. I've personally had to reseat @micahfelker's 9448's (yes, NRC9448 springs with no coils cut), back after they drop out at full flex. The pre facelift shock mounts are close enough together that a 30" fully extended shock is just too long, whereas my 9449's stay seated at full flex (I have a 2003).

    • Like 2
  3. 8 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

    EL-38 of the '03 manual shows how to get those apart, but not how to put them together again. Looks like to get them apart, you push the slider forward (towards the TPS). From that I'd guess that you'd stick it back together with the slider still all the way forward, and the slider would then return on own to the locked position as the connector seated. Maybe having the slider fully forward lifts the springs that are getting in your way? I didn't even know those connectors were a thing, so that's all I've got. Good luck!

    That’s how I poked holes in the slider with a Flathead... had it in the locked position and started pushing, but thanks for replying

  4. 2003 VQ35DE with Drive by Wire

    I took off my intake for regular maintenance, as well as changing spark plugs. To clear room, I disconnected the TPS sensor on the Throttle body from its harness. Last week i started putting stuff together, and the TPS harness won't go onto the TPS plug. 

     

    I need insight on whether the harness is broken, damaged, or if my methods are inadequate. But first pictures, so that you all will have a better idea of what I'm talking about.

     

    This is the Harness:

    6BxM0EM.jpg

     

    hr41ycd.jpg

     

    VX2WngM.jpg

     

    J5TxcQl.jpg

     

     

    This is the plug on the TPS:

     

    0WflY1Q.jpg

     

    J6iOpMQ.jpg

     

    Here's what I know so far: The springs (you can see their white/clear tops in the top section of the harness) are contacting the guides on the TPS (the two guides with the rectangle between them in the last picture). I cannot push the springs far enough out of the way to change this. Even after lubricating the springs and TPS plug, I can't get the springs to slide past the guide. This contact causes the sliding/locking mechanism on the backside of the harness to get pushed back when sliding the harness onto the TPS plug. Or, if you slide the locking mechanism all the way back, put the harness on the TPS plug, and then try and push the locking mechanism all the way forward, the TPS plug gets pushed off the harness. It was my initial assumption that the springs are supposed to slide past the guides, but I'm not super confident on that. 

     

    So, lets say the springs are supposed to contact and push against the guides. If that's the case, then fine. I'll push harder, but I've already poked holes in backside of the sliding mechanism from pushing with a flathead screwdriver. 

     

    If I take the springs out of the harness, it doesn't lock onto the TPS plug with any force other than the friction between the two surfaces. I can pull the harness off without touching locking/sliding mechanism on the backside of the harness.

     

    The harness appears to be in working shape and not damaged, nor do I recall any snapping noises when I pulled it off the TPS plug last week. When just inspecting the harness, if I push the locking mechanism all the way forward, it clicks into place, seeming to suggest that it works.

     

    Any insight is greatly appreciated, as my truck has now been sitting in the driveway for a week. I'd have to tow it to a shop or drive it to one with the TPS harness shoddily connected, and I'm not sure what a shop would do or tell me to do at this point.

     

     

     

  5. 2 hours ago, Jansens98R50 said:

    I cannot find the article of the "conduit mount method" roof cargo basket for the Pathfinder, does someone have a link to the install instructions / hardware needed?

    For organization, don’t ask random questions in other people’s build threads. That being said, here’s what you’re looking for: 

     

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, PartTime4WD said:

    Yikes I'll remember that. If I need pulled out from the front what would be the best point to do it? Just get a hitch d ring and do it from the rear instead?

     

    Planning on doing a custom bumper at some point but caution would be good until then.

     

    Thanks for the heads up!

    the only real recovery point to plan on using on a trail would be a trailer hitch + d ring in the rear, the front needs a bumper + reinforcement 

  7. 2 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:

    Ok, fair enough. But I can’t see how that makes a difference? I was under the impression that the only difference between the HDs and MDs was spring rate....

     

    Obviously the HDs might naturally sit a bit higher without much weight in the front, making the MDs the “shorter” of the two, but it would be pretty minimal difference.

     

     

    Mainly it has me wondering what’s being sold as a 9447 spring.....

     

    I know there were tons of options when I ordered mine, Is it possible the different manufacturers are selling slightly different lengths

    It looks pretty normal, I don’t doubt that he has legitimate Land Rover springs, whatever part number he got. There’s no front lift that will level Land Rover springs, let alone MD’s without a spacer. The HD’s are a definite step up in weight rating and will lift a higher height, about 1.25-1.5” according to rugged rocks. Even on AC’s and 9449’s I have about 1-1.25” of rake. See post #167 for a picture of freshly installed HD’s with Land Rover springs:


     

    • Like 1
  8. 23 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

    “Face down, booty up”
     

     

    In all seriousness though, how the hell did you get so much lift in the back with 9447s? Those are the same springs I’ve got on mine, and it’s pretty level with the front. Maybe the OME HDs dont lift much after all? I’ve got AC coils up front, which offer 2” inches, so the OMEs must be pretty close to stock height to cause that much rake with 9447s in the back

     

    15 minutes ago, jtchal said:

    That's an impressive lift. I've got 9447s in the back and Australian made EFS 40mm (1.75"?) raised coils in the front, and I don't believe mine sits as high. Similar stance though. Looks like AC coils are the only ones to provide a 'true' 2" lift up front...

    He’s got MD’s not HD’s. Read post #7

     

    On 3/5/2020 at 3:48 PM, RideFaster said:

    Well first up on the list of maintenance is new KYB GR-2 struts with OME MD springs up front and LR 9447

     

     

     

     

  9. I see you’ve got a d-ring in your driver side tow hook: just so you’re aware, there’s a moderate consensus that you shouldn’t recover a vehicle or be recovered using those front tow hooks, they’re really not designed with that scenario in mind. They seem to be totally ok for simple towing, but if a vehicle is really stuck or hung up, they’ve been known to fail:

     

    • Like 1
  10. 4 hours ago, RAW444 said:

    Hey mate, nice clean pick up! 

     

    First thing I did with mine when I got her stock was new wheels and tires.. You can fit 31" on stock ride height but you may need to trim your bumper.. or get a bull bar ;)

    Sunraysia Steel Rims are pretty popular and fairly cheap, don't go any smaller than 16" as any smaller will rub the inside against your calipers.

    Below is pic with 31's before any lift or suspension mods    -7 offset sits flush with flares.. which is a legal requirement where I live.

     

    r50 lone.jpg


    dY6gVcW.jpg

     

    15x8’s with 3.75 backspacing don’t rub my calipers at all.

    • Like 2
  11. 1 hour ago, illusionzrcer said:


    Thanks for the reply. I saw your video on wheel spacing and checked out your build thread as well. I noticed that you are running a 32/11.5 tire. I will be running a 265/75/16 which i believe is equal to be about 32/10.5. Since my tire is narrower than yours is the magic number still 3.75 for backspace? Or am I missing something.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I think @micahfelker is 4.0 BS on that exact tire size. That being said, most people still go for 3.75 since it’s an easy enough spec to find on 16” or 15” rims. (8” wide with -19 mm offset).

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, illusionzrcer said:

    So I’ve been thinking about new wheels and tires lately. My current setup now are 15” procomp steel wheels with 31/10.5/15 with 3.75 backspace. I am looking at the vision 355 overland wheels in 16x8 with a 4.5” backspace with 265/75/16 tires. I’ve read through the whole wheel and tire fitment thread and didn’t come up with a conclusive answer. Does anyone know if this setup will clear the struts or would I need wheel spacers? Current lift is OME Hd fronts and OME md rears.

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    3.75 Backspace is the magic number if you want guaranteed fitment for any tire larger than 31” tall. If it’s 31” or less, backspacing doesn’t matter much

    • Like 2
  13. 36 minutes ago, allspringsnospaceR50 said:

    Hey guys just joined npora happy to be here got my pathfinder on October 2019. I’ve always loved Nissan and this is my second 4x4 Nissan.  It’s been fun to research the parts I need to modify this thing. I’ve been working professionally in the automotive industry for close to ten years and I am a master tech so I know my way around a car. Let me know if you have any general questions. I’d be happy to help out.

     

    i already have 2”AC coil springs up front stock KYB struts and shocks from previous owner. I have LR 9449 coil springs in the rear. The wheels are trail master TM5-5883 3.75 backspacing 15x8  lug pattern 6x5.5. Those are wrapped in falken AT3 wildpeak 32x11.5R15. Has to do some trimming to fit them in there but wasn’t too much. 
     

    Pic below is the first real time I took it off road
     

     

    9A68424E-E90E-49B4-9DF1-6813F48B5C8E.jpeg

    Wow, we have everything the same except rims and maybe shocks! Keep it up, I love seeing your vehicle on IG too! The red is awesome!

    • Thanks 1
  14. On 1/10/2020 at 5:44 AM, JBGEARHEAD91 said:

    I have found another option from Bilstein 33-104652 it is a 28'' extended that could go with these springs.

    That length would suit the Pre facelift (96-99) well (I'm assuming the shock mount change happened the same year as the facelift), as their shock mounts are closer together than the later models. I've personally had to reseat a coil for @micahfelker  when he drops one at full flex, the 29" 331885569's are a little too long for his application. 

  15. 2 minutes ago, joshrichard said:


    yeah me too, that link doesn’t work Tyler. At least not on mobile


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    3 minutes ago, Teesetz said:

    Says I don’t have permission or the forum doesn’t exist?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Works for me on safari and chrome (mobile/laptop), but ive noticed mobile can have issues if I'm using the "Dark" theme setting

    • Like 1
  16. 1 hour ago, joshrichard said:

    AFAIK the only option for the rear locker is going to be an ARB air locker. Not 100% sure though, maybe someone else can chime in.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    • Like 1
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