PathyDude17
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Posts posted by PathyDude17
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14 hours ago, Johnston77 said:
That cylinder (which appears to be coated in plenty of oil) in the center-left of this picture is the oil cooler. It has 2 o rings that can be replaced and will often fix any leaks that the cooler has. It looks like this is at least one of the sources of your leak.
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$1200 is a rip-off.
you can easily replace the rear shocks yourself, it’ll take about 10-30 minutes depending on rust (it’s 4 bolts total). The alignment shop who handled my front lift springs handled the install AND alignment for somewhere between 200-300. Struts cost about $40-80 per side if I remember correct.
if he’s doing all the work for you, maybe 400-500 if he lets you source your own parts. A little more if he has to buy and source the parts
you don’t have to buy tires at the same tome, but you will have to get the front realigned if he replaces your front struts (shocks).whether you decide to lift it or not, the labor should cost the same, and I would recommend buying and providing the parts yourself. Alignment will be more difficult if you lift it, so getting camber bolts (14mm camber bolts) is a good idea.
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The 2002 model year has well noted issues about the Idle Air Control Valve going bad, allowing coolant to leak. One thing leads to another, and left untreated you’ll eventually burn a hole in your ECU. I’d suggest changing that gasket/IACV
don’t want to end up like this guy with a damaged circuit board: https://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/26536-02-pathfinder-possible-ecm.html-
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5.5 inches times 25.4mm/inch = 139.7mm. It’s the same thing, they’ll fit.
15x8 -19mm is 3.75 backspace.
15x8 -38 is 3.0 backspacing
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Junkyard bump stops, or consider Old Man Emu rear springs, which will handle load well while only lifting the vehicle a little (0.5-1”)
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PathyDude17
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1 hour ago, masonl286 said:
How did you find these?!?!? I cant count how many times and different ways I've search up Pathfinder Lowering Springs/Coils and that never came up...
You're amazing. Now I just got to see if it's worth forking over $400USD for
EDIT - Looking at that site, it says its recommended to replace the rear shocks as well, why is that? Can I do this with just the coil springs or do I have to replace the rear shocks? And if I do have too, what's the cheapest option? So far I'm looking at around $600+ Canadian just to get the Coils delivered to me haha
I searched “pathfinder lowering coils 4x4parts” and it was the 2nd result
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These are what you’re looking for:
https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981107-pathfinder-lowering-coils.html
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3 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:
Absolute monster with that lokka, love the video!
27 minutes ago, R50JR said:Can’t wait to test out my lokka and lsd set up on some proper trails! Keep those videos coming, man.
Sent from my Pathfinder
thanks!
the lokka has definitely opened up trails and obstacles for me, and made the tough ones simple.
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More footage from a trail day yesterday, conquered some obstacles that I couldn’t before the lokka.
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Wow. Same exact spot indeed.Thanks for the photos + advice.
Replacement is sitting in the garage, just gotta
work on some kind of extended link situation (and see if that creates a need for coil retainers) now!
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4 minutes ago, hawairish said:
Am noticing your first CVs have the same style shaft as mine. Wish I knew if mine were OE or not...I only know the boots were replaced previously.
I may just end up bringing an angle finger to the JY and finding the right set.
Next time I’m at the ultra R50-populated JY I’ll try and check the CV shafts. If we could find enough “notched” axle shafts, perhaps we would be comfortable with deeming those the OEM axles?
At the very least, it would seem the notched shaft + carved (not round) differential flanges is a good indicator of quality, as you and I have both had good success in Offroad/4x4/Front locker usage w/o spacers.-
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Awesome! It’s always good to get math and crowdsourcing info on this topic, I know it’s been speculated before that different axles have worse tolerances.
First Experience:
CV Brand/PN: OEM I Assume. See pic
Markings: BCM1085 on the shaft/differential side band of the outer boot (as opposed to the hub facing side of the outer boot) T82FA on inner boot.
Strut Brand/PN: KYB. Couldn’t find a stamped part number, I assume they’re the facelift part number.
Spacers: 2” Spacers
Binding: I’d speculate 2-3. Sorry, Never tested by hand at full droop. However, the passenger side shaft would bind at full lock in parking lot scenarios and such. I occasionally could also feel the axles bind when under heavy acceleration and the front end would lift slightly. This, combined with the knowledge that my axles would have beyond-stock downtravel at full droop, made me switch to springs before going off road.
2nd Experience: By then, I had manual hubs, so I had much less time w/ axles engaged, no “by hand” testing:
CV Brand/PN: Aforementioned Axles
Markings: Aforementioned Axles
Strut Brand/PN: Same KYB’s
Spacers: None, just 2” AC coils
Binding: 0. None observed under legitimate, wheel lifting type off road usage. I tend to be light on the throttle as I lose traction, but still, I never observed binding.
3rd experience:CV Brand/PN: Driver side- Unknown, pulled from JY. Passenger- same as previous 2 axles, assumed OEM.
Markings: Driver- 7037 on snap ring of outer boot differential side. BT114 on inner boot. BT110 on outer boot. No distinguishable markings anywhere else. Passenger- GSP on outer boot hub side snap ring. CS-P on inner boot diff side snap ring. No other distinguishable markings, see pics.
Strut Brand/PN: Same struts as before, KYB OEM spec
Spacers: none, just 2” AC coils up front now
Binding: 0. Tested off road, including use of a lokka, and just now in my driveway- No binding, full droop, full lock, both ways, forward and reverse.
PICS
The first two presumably OEM axles:
Current Driver side Axle, Notice the entirely round inner flange:
Current Passenger Side axle. The shaft isn’t notched the way the first two axles I had were, so it’s possibly just an OEM look alike or an earlier production model:
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I pulled axles from a JY R50- saves me some money, and I like having OEM ones if possible. That’s a personal preference though, there’s little to no evidence of difference in performance.
i didn’t pay attention to year when pulling them, and they worked fine. They certainly all bolt up to the same differential regardless of year within the R50 generation, and since all manual hubs work with all model year R50’s (provided you have the right rims), I’d have a tough time imagining any actual difference in the axles from year to year. If you’re unsure, buying new is a perfectly fine option. That’s my $.02
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1 hour ago, hawairish said:
Mine snapped back in Feb, just like that, when @TowndawgR50 had the truck. He can probably attest to the usefulness of it coming down the mountain on the curvy sections of I-17.
He said it snapped in the same spot too, oddly enough.
I think the plan will be to replace it and see if I can’t space the links lower down or get longer links to maybe take some stress off of it. I won’t gain anything useful by taking it off.
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This is a new one. I assume that sometime last weekend my rear sway bar snapped. It certainly happened sometime after the 4.6 swap.
It doesn’t look visibly scratched or damaged, and all the links are attached and in working shape. The axle and shock mounts have some scratches but that’s it.
I never noticed a difference highway driving or anything, so I’m not in a huge hurry to replace unless that changes. I’m pretty surprised that the bar snapped before the links, and I can’t say I’ve seen this anywhere on the forum before. I know for almost certain that the sway bar was my travel limiter with the Bilstein 5125’s (29.7” extended length).
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Thanks!
I have a Canon T5, a sweet Craigslist find.I have multiple lenses, but shoot almost exclusively on a 50mm lense, these included.
I edit almost all my photos with photoshop express on my phone (free) or some free software on my computer.
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Oh, quick other little update- I got rid of my 4 front facing lights in the lower bumper. They weren't improving light output, and I wasn't in love with the look. Here's a look at the "updated" front end from a fun little trail run yesterday evening.
And a cool picture of the jeep and the terrain for good measure.
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Always happy to help!
Top-out is a funny one. Personally, I think I have a high tolerance for noisy clunks, and have just gotten used to some of the "off road noises" that happene when I leave the pavement. I'm sure in off road situations, I do experience top-out.
At least on pavement, I can't think of a single time where I was certain the struts had topped out, or where a noticeably loud "clunk" was heard up front. For that reason, I've always assumed that "top-out" was a litle over-reported. I also beleive that my coils dropped a solid .75-1" of height in the first few weeks, eventually settling to ~2". If your top-out keeps happening alot after that initial settling, then that would definitley be different than the experience that I've had with the AC coils.
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More talk on the 4.6's...
I now have over 400 miles on them, including one full fill up of mixed driving (without going off road). That tank yeilded 14.8 MPG with a mostly moderate or mildly lead-footed driving style. Keep in mind I also have 32x11.5 R15 tires that come in at 56 lbs a piece. 14.8 was a very typical mileage for mixed driving on the 4.3's as well.
So, how do the 4.6's drive?
Honestly, I thought daily driving would be the noticeable downside of this setup, but in most aspects I prefer DD'ing on the 4.6's. It feel's like there's more power behnind the pedal. The vehicle is more responsive to small adjustments in the gas pedal and just seems more eager and willing to pull. On hills or during highway passing manuevers, the vehicle holds top gear/OD much better and doesn't search for gears- Previously, highway passing manuevers would also initiate a downshift, and then the vehicle would only upshift after letting all the way off the throttle. This doesn't happen anymore.
That being said, rev's are definitely up over what they previously were on the 4.3's. 3k RPM will currently get me to about 78-80 MPH, which is up a good 200-300 RPM over what the 4.3's would do @ 80MPH (not accounting for tire size on the 4.3's). A 4.6 gear swap and a 29" to 32" tire swap is almost a perfect match of factory ratio's, so all the rotation based measurements of the vehicle are quite accurate compared to an R50 that hasn't been regeared.
Offroad: I now have two tests under my belt (The lokka is still doing great! Makes quick work on alot of terrain that used to require intentional line picking). The 4.6's...... pull the vehicle forward? I don't know what to say, the vehicle handle's good, and "crawls" about as well as I could expect it too. A few times I found myself hung up and in need of some extra throttle to get over rocks - at least with the 4.6's while in 4LO, I could pretty smoothly push the rev's past 2k and start to inch over the obstacle. The throttle wasn't jerky or anything funny.... seems like everything performs like it should. This is also helped by the presence of the lokka, since I'm not worried about wheel slippage as I apply throttle. Makes for an acceptably smooth approach onto and over obstacles.
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The two most recent KYB failures ( @zakzackzachary and @onespiritbrain ) have both been due to mis-installation. I used to to be of this opinion, but after re-reaserching I found little to no proof that the KYB mounting system (though slightly different than OEM) actually had a pattern of failing. I still
have my OEM mounts fwiw, but I couldn’t find much more than hearsay about the actual failures
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Load Sensing Valve. It came on earlier model pathfinders, and would slightly bias break input based on how much weight the vehicle had in the rear end. It attaches to the body and to the axle, so when you have more weight in the rear that spring isn’t stretched as much.
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PathyDude's R50 Projects (03 SE 4x4)
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by PathyDude17
Added some retrofit headlights!
These are a Toyota DIY H4 kit from bxbuilt.com
B3 bi-LED projectors with V2 Flat shrouds.
I added halos to the kit, and have them wired for DRL duty, but they’re also switchback compatible, so I have them wired to the turn signals, and they function perfectly as hazards and turn signals.
Andrew, the owner of BX Built, was super helpful along the way and answered all my messages about the headlights. He’s very easily reached on his Instagram account @bx_built.
If you hit him up about headlights, be sure to tell him Tyler / @thewhitepathfinder sent ya!
You’ve probably also recently seen these exact headlights (minus the halos) on @herotrooper ‘s R50. He was the inspiration for this mod!
More photos to come, as well as a YouTube video!