TroyButler

Hate to be the one to bring up and old topic but with all the talk of bump stops i just had a question. Does the bags still help if you don't have any bump stops? I have the 1" spacer on the bottom, and all my bump stop broke off before i owned the truck and never replaced them. Or does the bag need to support the vehicle by lifting up on the bump stop?

Sorry to bring up and old topic but I feel like adding more lights again, and was wondering what you used to attach the pods to the basket? thank you

I know this may be a bit late, but yes you can very easily do a single kayak that way

The reason i was trying to go this route mainly was to prevent trying to run wires into the cabin. I liked the resistor idea, but then it would be a lot of guessing buying resistors since i dont know what the required voltage is to trigger the relay. Wiring is by far not my specialty. I also learned there is not a fuse for just the DRL, so i was trying to just cut a wire to disable them but boy is that a whole process. Cut the driver side high wire to the DRL module and all that did was eliminate my driver side high beam, still had running lights, loose my high beam dash indicator, but there was like a 1 second delay and my light bar still worked so something else must still be triggering it with enough power? Also: soldering between the battery and the fender to get the tiny wires for the DRL is a pain - do not recommend. PS PS: I do appreciate all the potential solutions, im just not smart enough to implement all of them i was happy enought just to make a working wiring harness, and cutting a wire is very simple, once you know the correct wire

Thats a really good idea thank you. I was just gonna pull a fuse for DRL and see if that worked, but now i have an option A and B?

Damn. I thought it would be the low beams. Anyway to work around that, and have it trigger with just he high beams and not running lights? Im currently tapped into the high beam wire if that matters.

General question for those who know there pathy/QX4 and wiring better than I. So the switch that came with my light bar broke, and i dint want to completely waste it, so i chopped up the harness and connected it directly to my highbeams, so the stock on my steering wheel controls the lights now. My problem is as follows: Headlights on: light bar off Head lights on + High beams: Light bar on Even the momentary switch works. Head lights off: Light bar on. Anyone know why with the head lights off the light bar is on? Until i turn the car off, then the light bar is off. Thank you.

Yeah no HF or TS up in canada. I got canadian tire and princess auto, or amazon. Not sure i like/trust any of their winch options. and good to know thank you edIt: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/8-500-lb-12v-dc-multi-purpose-contractor-off-road-winch/A-p8528945e This looks okay? looking more into the brand (all prices are CAD)

Yeah, i had 4 slots, both tops on driver side failed, but the hitch i bought from an 03 pathy only used 3 bolts aswell. additionally for my uses any recommendations for an “affordable” winch. And do i want a 9500lb or could i get away with much less since the hitch is only 6000lbs? I know the general rule is 1.5-2x vehicle weight but i feel thats more for completely stuck in mud not as much what im doing?

My only concern with the hitch is i just recently installed it and on passenger side, all 3 bolts are in and torqued. On driver side only 2 of the bolts are fully to torque as the top ones the inner nut broke so its threaded but not torqued to spec. Do you think that would affect the load rating or safety of use because if i wasn’t using a winch i still planned on using a shackle reciever and strap. I do know to only winch with the vehicle stationary, and the idea of chocks was a good mention, thank you. All pulls would try to be as straight as possible, and those on an incline would mostly just be to make up for lack of traction, so low resistance. The cost of wiring was a factor i had not thought of and will have to look more into thank you. The winch its self i would aim for a 10k winch and make sure to have a hitch pin of similar ratings.

I see a lot of people on here with winches and i was wondering if someone/some of you, could educate me on if im looking at the right thing. While id love a front bumper with a winch its not really practical for my needs or budget. I dont do much serious off roading just some fun at the farm or small trails i can find or whatever i encounter kayaking or camping. But where i think a winch would be handy would be for "towing" and recovery. This is my primary winter vehicle and I have had to pull a friend or 2 out of a snow bank or just some snow/ice they got stuck in. I also have to pull my car out in summer out of my back yard, a mixture max performance summer tires, ice/sno, and inclination means i cannot just simply drive it out. For these uses of pulling a friend or stranger out of a snowbank/ditch, or pulling my car in small increments out of my yard (and maybe switching to a tow strap to drag it out fully to not put the winch at weird angles (need more education on winches before use of course)) would you recommend using a trailer hitch mounted winch, ofcourse using a proper 2" receiver plate. Edit: Also in terms of self recovery probably just pull my self back out of snow if i slid too far Thank you.

Speaking of DIY ditch lights, heres stock: vs center light bar and ditch lights n I did slightly readjust the lights after this photo too

Before i installed my DIY ditch light project today, found a small trail - thing that was fun

Little late to reply but wanted to make sure everything works. New axle is in and all seems to work fine and i figured out what broke on the old axle, well actually nothing broke. Im not sure how it happened exactly but it did. I took pictures i can post them later if requested but essentially if you look at the first photo the shaft fell out of the joint basically (idk what to properly call it). On that shaft is splines that insert into the joint so that it perfectly meshes together. Around half way up the splines is a snap ring. I dont know how it happened, the snap ring was there, in perfect condition. Something happened basically that snap ring got compressed, closed, and let the shaft fall right out. That is why i couldn't re-insert it because i would've had to decompress the snap ring to insert it. I cut the snap ring and it slid right back in perfectly, so all the force in the world and loosening/undoing components would have done nothing. So if anyone has this problem, just replace the axle.

Funny I had similar ideas since every scrap yard around me is littered with fords... maybe not a good sign though

Awesome thank you, i must now try to find a set of bars.

Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road. Pretend these slashes are your tires Neutral camber: I Negative Camber: / Postitive Camber: \ With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge. With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering) Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative. I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars. Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts

Out of curiosity how did you mount the kayak J rack carriers and a roof basket? Id love to have both so i could mount lights on my basket, but the main reason i have the SUV out in summer is to kayak.

Sounds perfect. wanted a more robust solution since my girlfriend really needs the step to mount our kayaks. Added protection also just means can have more fun

Still work good as a step?

My locks are messed up as in my passenger side only locks and unlocks if you use a key in that door. If i lock all doors from driver side or fob, the passenger remains unlocked. But if i lock from passenger side with key, it will lock all the doors

Damn would he make another and ship them ?

My 97 QX4 did not come with fobs either but i bought one on Ebay and it works pretty good. The locks on my vehicle are a bit messed up and sometime the fob takes a couple clicks to open the rear doors but overall im happy with it This is the one i bought i believe: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Replacement-for-Infiniti-97-99-QX4-Mercury-99-02-Villager-Remote-Car-Key-Fob/191892726290?hash=item2cadb2a212:g:rg4AAOSwskha-uFp&vxp=mtr

I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2. Sorry to inconvenience everyone, im just not use to the big SUV life. I have a background more with BMW’s and am much more familliar with those (coupes and such).

I was well aware there was various thicknesses that had to be specific vehicle. All he said was order from nissan, not, how to know before disassembly which to order. And again i looked at the FSM, doesn’t specifice which thickness is needed that i saw. I assumed the best way to know is to measure after dissassembly but before that i am unsure. Sorry if that troubles you also seeing as mine wasn’t installed correctly it may not even have the old snap ring in to begin with so besides guess and check i was unsure how to know the specific one to use, unless as i asked it would be tied to the vin.