onespiritbrain

Does the issue go away after it cools down and then starts again after warming up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, thank you very much. My day just got 1000 percent better. I can’t wait to get this thing back together and try it out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

??? I guess the water came in thru the breathers because my transfer case oil looks exactly the same. I got to looking at the transmission oil that I drained so I stuck my hand in it and as I stirred it around I could see a very very fine powder dissolved in it. Kind of like carrot juice has swirls in it when you shake it up. I assume it’s metal but I stuck a neodymium magnet in there and it collected nothing. Maybe its clutch material? Either way I have a mountain of anxiety about it being ruined.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was running. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If anyone thought that I was done being a dumbass, well, you ain’t seen nothing yet! When I thought there were metal shavings on the crank position sensor I pried the dust cover on the trans back with a screw driver and stuck a garden hose up there trying to wash away the shavings... Well that water somehow made its way into the transmission and created Dracula’s chocolate milk.... The trans oil smells perfect, no clutch smell at all. I’ve probably driven 30 miles with it like that. On the way to work today though the torque converter started slipping and stuttering from dead stops.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That thing might actually be bent. It definitely looks warped in the area where all the holes are cut out and I can’t figure out any other scenario where the torque converter would have to be pulled up to meet the flexplate and the starter would have to be shimmed out. I have all the bell housing and torque converter bolts out now and I really want to figure out a way that I don’t have to completely pull anything out. What about sliding the trans back?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found my other flexplate in the gaylord with my other engine! Wooh! I want to pull the motor without taking anything off of it, no belts, no parts, nothing! My only concern is reaching those motor mount nuts.. I also looked very closely at the rear end of the crank with the seal housing removed and there is no way that the crank slid forward that far. Picture is a little blurry but the end of the crank is very nearly touching the block there. Unless that piece isn’t the end of the crank but a piece that’s pressed on or something.. The flexplate has to be perfectly bent because I took a video of it spinning slowly, turning the crank by hand, and there is literally no wobbling to be seen with the naked eye. Is it really possible that it is somehow bent perfectly from being pressed in just 4 places by the 4 bolts??? That doesn’t seem possible to me. Of course I am a freakin dumbass so we’ll see. And it can’t be anything on the transmission because the starter scrubbed the flexplate like crazy.. and it seriously wasn’t hard at all to run the bell housings dowelled bolts in. There was some resistance but it wasn’t enough to cause me to be alarmed, and it certainly didn’t feel like the kind of force that would be needed to bend that flexplate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to have to replace the flex plate. The torque converter slipped and stuttered all over the place on the way to work this morning..... What a bummer. That’s what you get when you’re a dumbass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you should figure out a way to quickly remove the glass instead of the vinyl. You could put wing bolts in place of the bolts for easy removal or you could replace the shafts that hold the hinges together and have cotter pins to secure the shafts while the window is on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nevermind it’s exactly like it was before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The trans is shifting just like it was before except that instead of “floating” into overdrive it is more of a shift, just like the other gears feel when they shift. Edit:Coming out of OD is a little more abrupt as well. I mean it’s the same at highway speeds, feels exactly like it also has, but at lower speeds from 45-55mph I can feel it engage and disengage. It doesn’t come in and out of OD or anything but I can just feel it a little more than before, like it’s a regular gear. I don’t know if this is good or bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was the oxygen sensors!!!! Runs like a top! It’s like a dark cloud has cleared from above me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh crap what if it’s the distributor... there is some kind of bearing noise coming from that area but I was thinking it was the AC clutch. Now I’m afraid that noise is the bearings inside the distributor. I didn’t spin it when I had it out because the FSM said not to.. I can’t imagine why though. It’s just strange that it clears up and acts completely normal and then falls on is face, back and forth like clockwork. I can’t imagine what else it would be that would go in and out except a sensor. Edit: ohh yeah and also when I was setting the timing with the light it was jumping all over the place. Buuuuut that was before I remembered to unplug the throttle position sensor. It was jumping 20-25 degrees all over. It was more calm after I unplugged the TPS but it was still moving around 5 degrees. Thanks for the help fellas :] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do y’all think about me possibly having crossed the fuel lines? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just watched a video stating that the crank shaft position sensor doesn’t have any effect on ignition and that it’s only function is to report RPM to the ECU. That’s good to know! My plan is to figure out what the heck is going on with the misfiring as well as pay super close attention the the transmission shifting points and OD operation. I looked for the other flex plate but I am 95% sure I tossed it because it was bent from the junkyard. I really need this vehicle to straighten up and fly right because I’m going to be facing some harsh criticism at home if I have to spend another dime on it for at least a year lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank y’all very much! I have an update. So I didn’t have the plug seated all the way on the sensor. I reached up there and plugged it in but no dice. The issue persists, this time without the P0335 code. I got a better idea about what’s going on and got a new code also, P0300. It’s misfiring for a 20 second period then it clears up to be completely normal for 20 seconds and so on, back and forth. It’s not drivable like this because the power loss during the bad 20 seconds is fairly severe. I am wondering if I crossed up those vacuum lines and little solenoid that go to the fuel pressure regulator and when the solenoid opens or whatever it cuts fuel and drastically reduces it? You help is VERY appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m seriously considering knocking the hell out of the crank bolt up front to try and get that flex plate back in position. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I reached up there and pulled the sensor out and it did have metal shavings on it but I replaced it with a spare and it is still messed up and throwing the P0335 code. That’s what you get when you’re a dumbass, you get to do it all over again. I guess I’m going to try to pull the flex plate back into its original position? What the hell even moves in there??? Isn’t the flex plate bolted to the crankshaft????? Did the damn crankshaft move?? What in the hell is going on???? I can’t put together words to describe how much this sucks. My neighbors are trying to sell their house and my @!*%s in 1000 pieces in the garage looking like the rednecks from hell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what’s happening: It stumbles and skips and sputters and barely goes until 3k rpm then it opens up and acts completely normal. While it’s acting up if I press the gas all the way down it stops and accelerates normally with no sputtering. It starts and stops. About 30 seconds acting up and 30 seconds acting normal. What am I dealing with here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh no... I have a crankshaft position sensor fault..... P0335 So I’m thinking it’s either metal shavings from the starter scraping the flex plate.. Or this is because the flex plate got pushed out of position... This is horrible. Truly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She lives!!!! I had to shim the starter out some more... it was constantly spinning the starter and grinding a spot on it... it was very hot. I’ve also got coolant leaking from somewhere on the driver side. I can’t find it at the moment.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sooooooooo close!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow.... so I was about to install the harmonic balancer and I went to unscrew the crank bolt and it was very difficult to break free, but..... I was able to put a massive amount of torque to get it off....... WITHOUT THE ENGINE TURNING OVER!?!?!?!???!!!!!?!?!??!? I jump back, the hair stands up all over my body, my hands and mouth begin to tremble, and I pace around in an absolute panic begging God to help me. After digging I found that the starter was making contact with the flex plate. I videoed the flex plate when I spun it and there is no warping at all. I guess it pushed whatever had the ability to be pushed just enough to rub on the starter. What I did to rectify the situation was I took two old head bolt washers and used them to shim the starter out. Turns over like butter again! I do hope there isn’t some sort of damage somewhere either inside the bottom of the engine or with the oil pump on the transmission.. I swear I didn’t wrench on those bellhousing bolts while the torque converter bolts were still in there.. I could tell there was some sort of resistance but it definitely didn’t feel like something was bad wrong.. Blaaaaaahhhhh! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what this is? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Idiot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk