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DanF.

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Everything posted by DanF.

  1. Thanks for sharing. I always enjoy the technical write-ups with PICTURES!!! Considering the time, effort, and money (for parts and tools needed) would it be feasible to get the complete rear end from an Xterra (or other vehicle with a locker already installed) and fabricate your own spring perches, trailing arm mounts, etc... and use that?
  2. Sounds like it could be a stuck thermostat. It would prevent the coolant from circulating through the radiator, and causing the fan clutch to lock up (due to the high engine temps) and get louder.
  3. Is your cooling fan clutch frozen? When they die the clutch freezes/sticks and likes to spin at the same speed as the engine. It makes it much louder. A good fan clutch should allow you to spin the fan by hand (pretty easily) when the engine is off.
  4. It looks like yours is lifted. Do Tundra upgrade parts fit on the Sequoia?
  5. What size are you running, and where did you buy them... online or brick & mortar shop? I'm looking at them now, out of curiosity's sake, and realized that they don't sell them on TireRack.com, or other online retailers.
  6. I love the AT2s on our 2004 Pathfinder. Great tread wear on those unexpected 2000 road trips. Also, I've really only got it into sand, from hardpacked beach stuff to light, deep, dried-out sections that sunk me in 2wd. After switching to 4wd (have open diffs front/rear) I had no trouble climbing out..... luckily. Not great in (freezing) cold weather and in snow, the rubber compound hardens up, and there is too much open space between the tread blocks. I'm moving from TX back up to NH, and we're going to get some dedicated studded snow tires for the 6 months of winter that is gifted to us.
  7. What wheels do you have? Post a picture if you can. I'm confused what rotor issue you'd ever have. The lip on the inside of the SE wheels holds the center caps, and will prevent the MM hubs from poking through enough to allow the wheels to fit back on the hub. IIRC, the SE wheels that I have are the only wheels that will have interference issues with the Mile Marker hubs. It's also been said (somewhere on this forum...) that Warn hubs will fit without modifying the SE wheels. I don't have the dimensions for the Warn hubs, so I can't speak to that. Hope this helps.
  8. Do you have a writeup with pictures for this? I'm interested in the setup and installation.
  9. Guy's name is Georges Nasr, and he posts pretty frequently on the Faceballs page for NPORA: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/
  10. Thanks for the link. Those guys were removing a substantial amount of material compared to what I need to do.
  11. I will grind it myself. I just don't know the right bit to use. I assume I can run it in a regular 3/8" chuck electric drill, and pretend it's a giant Dremel. I've seen cutter bits, such as Slartibartfast's suggestion, but there's also those coarse grinder bits.
  12. Thanks for the clarification. I had my window of free project-time, but I've run up against a wall of higher-priority stuff (selling my car, helping family member pick out new car, packing up current apartment for move, maintaining sanity with newborn, etc...) that's pushing back the non-essential goal of getting these manual hubs fitted to the wife's Pathfinder before I drive it 2000 miles back to Texas towing a U-Haul trailer. I did make a little bit of headway by emailing customer support at Rugged Ridge and getting a reply from one of their product engineers with the dimensions of their RR manual hubs, so that I could see if they'd (and by "they" I mean a less expensive eBay clone, like the ones hawairish linked) fit with the '04 SE wheels with no additional modifications, e.g. no spacers behind the wheel, no grinding of the wheel opening, and no replacement hub studs, etc... just straight swaps. I haven't had time to compare the specs provided with me against the wheel opening on my SE wheels and the MM 435 hubs I have sitting in front of me. Heck, I can't even find a ruler or tape measure. Anyways, here's the Rugged Ridge Manual Locking Hub Set; 90-04 Nissan Frontier/Pathfinder/Xterras SKU: 15001.61 specs per their customer support:
  13. This is direct from their eBay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SUSPENSION-FITS-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-INFINITI-QX4-1996-2004-R50-LIFT-KIT-NEW-/272320699207?fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item3f67941b47:g:0a0AAOSwQJ5USa3H&vxp=mtr Says they are urethane. Still, they will work just fine.
  14. Nice truck. Be extra careful ordering from RockAuto. Some parts listed on their site for R50 2004 Nissan Pathfinders are actually for TA60 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada. I just went through this issue with ordering wheel bearing parts from them. They list the SKUs or part numbers from their vendors, and go by what is provided from the parts manufacturers, in this case, Timken.
  15. Which locking hubs kit were you referring to? The Mile Marker 435s or the Rugged Ridge clones?
  16. Thanks for chiming in. I was thinking about this method as well. Do you remember what router bit you used? I can't think of many routers that are made for alloy. My father is a carpenter by trade and has a bunch of routers. I may ask him to let me use his crappiest old router, but I don't know which sacrificial bit to purchase.
  17. Are those like the ones that you have? Did you need to install longer studs? I'll buy these right now if they work with no extra parts or fabricobbling. I can just return the MM 435s to the store for a refund.
  18. Yeah, I could return them, but I'm so close to getting these on. Plus the Rugged Ridge (I think that's what you have?) are three times what I paid. I may make a run over to the local Homeless Despot and see if they have a carbide bit for my cordless drill. If my drill isn't powerful enough I'll be able to borrow something with more grunt from my father.
  19. Thanks for the reply and info. I can only slide the hub in as far as that picture shows. I'll spend more time looking for Nissan-specific spacers. I assume that these 1.5" spacers from Rugged Rocks should work: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-wheel-spacers-pair-by-rugged-rocks-1534-wide-6x5534-p-6724.html but I see lots of 4 pc. spacer sets for less than the RR 2pc. on eBay. As always, I'm trying to do this on a less-than-advantageous budget, and wouldn't really be too bothered by missing the rear center caps. I bet with a bit of thinking I could come up with a way to remove the inner lip material and still retain the center caps with an expanding plug and magnets (shooting from the hip here....) Something like this: How difficult would it be for me to grind that out? There isn't a ton of material, and I imagine a decent grinder attachment in a drill should be able to remove it just fine.
  20. I'm inclined to look into wheel spacers, as I can see a small lift in the future. I've been looking at various vendors and stuff on eBay. How would I know if I'd need to replace the stock wheel studs with longer studs? Also, I've read in the various "wheel spacer" threads on this, and other Nissan websites, that Toyota spacers will work. Will any 6x5.5 6-lug spacer work? Are there certain brands or vendors that are better than others? How do they affect steering/braking performance? I'm envisioning 1.5" spacers on all four corners. In the 10 minutes of internet searching, I've run across these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-WHEEL-SPACERS-6X5-5-1-5-INCH-THICK-12X1-5-STUDS-FITS-ALL-6-LUG-TOYOTA-/331638007761?hash=item4d372a67d1:g:LJoAAOSwd0BV3Tkt&vxp=mtr How about them?
  21. Or would the rear drum cover up the bearings? I've never had a vehicle with drum brakes.
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