DanF.

I just replaced the fan clutch and fan on my overheating BMW and it did the trick. The fan clutch was stuck fully engaged so that caused the fan to spin at the same speed as the engine. Loud and dangerous. The fan clutch is filled with hydraulic fluid and a valve (and some other black magic) that prevents it from overspinning to the point where the fan blades start shooting off through your fan shroud and hood. As the engine warms up ---> too high of a temp. the internal valves react to the temp change (rising above a preset limit) and cause the clutch to engage, which spins up the fan to higher RPMs. This is what helps cool your engine by drawing more air through the radiator. Here is a dangerous test: Try spinning the fan blades by hand with the engine switched off. You should be able to spin it very easily. If the fan is locked up or gummy feeling, it's probably bad. Also, if it spins like its attached to a $200 bearing, it's also bad. There should be a slight bit of resistance, but not too much. A 100% functional fan clutch should spin relatively freely at idle. You can fire up the engine, and after the initial engagement the fan clutch should disengage. Now you should be able to take a folded up piece of cardboard and lightly make contact with the tips/edges of the rotating fan blades to the point where after a few seconds you'll be able to stop the fan from spinning completely. At this point, if I was you, I'd replace the fan clutch anyway, and measure the diameter of the fan itself to make sure you have the correct part. An undersized cooling fan will have too much gap around the tips of the blades and the edge of the fan shroud... meaning that you're not getting efficient airflow ---> cooling.

No worries. New speaker pair should be in tomorrow, and I'll see if it rectifies the situation. If so, I'll order another pair for the back doors.

Where does it say that? I don't see it in the full .pdf I linked. If you read my initial post, I tested output voltage from the headunit/stereo/amp (it's all-in-one) and there WAS a signal coming out of the headunit, through the wires, to the speaker. The speaker was/is dead. I hooked it up to my home audio receiver, and it's toast. Not sure what kills a speaker, but that's a moot point. The front, A-pillar, tweeters produce sound. That also means there is a signal coming from the headunit.

This place needs more dog...

This model has the base stereo: non-Bose, single CD changer with no amps. Here is a wiring diagram I found that includes the base and Bose versions: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fixurnissan/2012-01-21_034430_1.pdf

Thanks for chiming in. Do you know if a single bad speaker will disable all four, or just the front? I'm asking because I've only bought two front speakers at this point. I wonder if simply disconnecting the bad speakers will allow the others to function, or will I have to jump the leads to complete the circuit for each bad speaker's connector?

Chillin' at the beach, and watching the reflection of the sun race down below the horizon.

OP, we just got the same truck as you, and I'll be following to see what ideas you come up with. I was just reading how another member with a stock 3.5 SE put 245/75 R16 tires on his Pathfinder and had minimal rubbing at full lock. Might be worth checking out. The search function on this site isn't that great, and there isn't a subforum for specialized issues e.g. performance, suspension, engine issues, etc. so you'll have to just dig through the archived posts to find the info.

Spent the morning trouble-shooting the stereo issues in the wife's rig. I removed the head unit and looked for loose/frayed/torn wires, and didn't find anything wrong, visually. The head unit powers on (when screwed in/grounded to the chassis) and functions normally, except the only sound coming out is from the two A-pillar mounted tweeters. All door speakers are silent. Next, I pulled off the driver's door panel, and visually inspected the speaker. It looked fine. No tears or dents in the woofer. No torn surround. The woofer moved freely when I pressed on it. I then removed the speaker ( four screws and a proprietary connector) and used a multimeter to see if there was any voltage making its way to the speaker from the head-unit through the wires. There was, and you could see it rising and falling with the volume of the music, and then drop to zero volts when the head-unit was powered down. I was assuming that the speaker was "dead", but brought it inside and connected it to a known good input source, my home stereo. Again, nothing... no sound or movement from the door speaker. I'm no expert, but I'm guessing that the driver's door speaker is dead. (not sure how...) Anyway, I just ordered these two front replacement speakers from Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777P52/Sound-Ordnance-P-52.html?tp=97 They are the cheapest speakers sold on Crutchfield (their store brand, AFAIK), but they come with the speaker wiring adapters, speaker mounting brackets, and "detailed" instructions for free. It's the next easiest/cheapest way I can think of to test this no-sound issue. Grand total: $36.98 The problem I had was finding accurate info about this issue, especially the non-Bose stereo. Half the online resources said that the speakers were 6.5". Luckily Crutchfield and MTX had accurate vehicle info on their websites. Anyways, I'll update this post, or start a new one (and link to this one) once they arrive and are installed.

Electricity is basically black magic.

I'll be pulling the stereo out either tonight, or tomorrow morning to check for loose/bad wiring. I imagine that it's going to be a difficult fix, and will probably just replace the original base model (non-Bose) stereo and wiring. Yes, this is the stock, base model (non-Bose) stereo. There's no evidence that I can see that it's ever been tampered with. Thanks for the tip on the center console/armrest. I'll give it a look.

Howdy, my wife just bought a 2004 Pathfinder SE 4x4 (new member post here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/6763-welcome-new-members/page-22?do=findComment&comment=760198), and it has a few electrical gremlins. 1.) The cigarette lighter fuse blows every time I replace it. I've only plugged my cell phone charger into it once, and it blew the fuse in about an hour. 2.) 12v accessory outlet inside armrest doesn't work at all. I don't know what fuse to check for this. 3.) The dreaded crappy stereo (non-Bose) problems that seem to affect a lot of Nissans are also present here. The door speakers (front and back) seem to work intermittently. No rhyme or reason when they will cut on/off. Front tweeters seem to work, but only driver's side works 100% What areas should I look in to solve these problems? I've searched this website, but unfortunately I'm not getting good hits. Thanks.