RIPB.88
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Posts posted by RIPB.88
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The 90 2 door with the MPFI is extremely rare. Not many got imported, and Obamas cash for clunkers probably killed most of them. You my friend, have got a RARE Gem.
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I'd probably pull some from a junkyard. Or at least compare the two and look for differences.
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You should plumb the system so you have quick disconnect fittings in/near each of the wheel wells so you just hook up 4 ~36" whips. That would eliminate some of the hose you must carry, then you just stuff the short lengths of hose under the sear or some where. That's how I've built mine.
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My TBI VG30 gets 17 in town and 19-20 on the highway I'm careful with the gas pedal and not traveling against high winds. I run Ethanol free 89 Octane fuel. I would think yours should do better.
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Take it to a reputable stereo shop. Best Buy is a bunch of Idiots that only know how to use their plug-n-play harnesses. Bypass the factory amps. You just replace door speakers and just run new speaker wires to the head unit. At $65/hr, with high quality new door speakers installed i'd charge roughly $275 out the door at my shop.
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Check Timing and might as well replace the belt if it hasn't been done in a while. Could also be internally in the distributor. Could also pull spark plug wires off one by one and see if one cylinder is causing your problem.
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Check the contact on the rotor. Could be not arcing right.
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Looks like a valet switch from an aftermarket remote start/Keyless entry system. Directed Electronics uses that style switch on their systems such as the Python 4103.
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Run 35 psi on mine until I need to air down to 15 on the trails.
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Hello all! Been a member for a year now when i first got my pathfinder (1998 SE, manual trans, originally from Canada) but this is my first post. I bought the pathy in Texas, but now that I'm out of the Army i moved back to California. The forums here are extremely helpful, but i encountered a problem that I'm sure you guys can help me with. When i bought it the SES light was on but everything was emissions related so i kinda just ignored it
, the codes were: P1444, P0141, and P0335. Now that I am back in California I have to pass smog, but only one time, not yearly like other parts of the state, but anyway for P1114 I cleaned the valve and installed a small fuel filter to keep the carbon pieces from clogging the purge valve again, and for P0141 i replaced both of the downstream o2 sensors. Where my problem lies, and where i need some advise on where to post for help, is the P0335 code, after finally locating where the sensor is supposed to be, I saw that it is completely missing and the wiring harness has been cut off. 
I somehow need to source a heat shield, wiring harness, and bolt. Someone please point me in the right direction, thanks in advanced.Best bet would probably be from a junkyard.
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You guys realize the UCA don't lift the truck at all right? They just allow you to adjust the camber and caster properly. Get the Superlift UCA the 4x4parts ones are okay but the ball joint angle sucks.
Correct, all the UCAs do, is allow for proper alignment (Camber/Caster) and correct ball joint angle. The 4x4parts ones just look beefier then stock, but offer no real advantage. Nobody said the UCAs themselves do the lift.
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So only longer shocks for the rear? The kit from 4x4parts is a 3".
Correct. Some members here are using ford shocks, but I'm not sure what part numbers they are using. Hopefully someone using them here will chime in.
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Another option is to brace up the centerlink. But, when you strengthen the weakest point in the suspension, you're just moving the weak spot to another component.
You only need to replace the steering box if there is play in the shaft. Same goes for the pitman.
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If you don't do UCAs and lift it, you'll be doing ball joints every few months because your maxing out the ball joint all the time. Also watch for CV Bind when you lift or you'll tear those up all the time too. When you do lift it, longer shocks are not needed, because you are not lengthening full droop of the IFS. Also for a 2" lift, a panhard drop isn't needed, but it wouldn't hurt though.
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Found out why I've had a steering wheel vibration and poor gas mileage.... One manual hub was locked in. I'm an idiot!!!
Had a buddy complain of horrible steering for about 2 months in his old pickup, until I noticed one of his hubs was locked in. He was a little pissed.
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Installed some Vision X 1156A LEDs in my turn signals. Got tired of a slight rattle from my catalytic converter barely touching a cross member so I welded a new exhaust hanger on. Also had a slight rattle from my Hi-Lift jack handle when hitting bumps, so I took off the Hi-Lift brand handle keeper and put on a Daystar Handle keeper. Much quieter now.
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That thing is a beast. Awesome build man. Everything looks great.
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Thanks Pathy - Im confused - as this part http://www.ebay.com/itm/231930177476 has a ball joint in it, but so does the center link here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201071795151
As listed above, I do need the control arm as well.
Do I want both or?
You'll want both. When I did mine it only took me about 4 hours to do the whole thing, but that's with air tools and a shop to do it in.
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I've been looking at (or trying to find) lifts for my '96 r50 for quite awhile now and I came across something that I haven't seen anywhere on the forums. Here it is:
http://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=799H
It looks to me like the springs are shorter than the ac lift just going off the pictures, but it's much cheaper which is a huge plus for me as a college student haha.
Anyway, do any of you know if these are any good? Anyone have any experience with them?
I was thinking about getting them at the same KYB struts and shocks on Amazon, considering they're any good. I'd also get some warn hubs.
I'm running 265/75r16 tires right now, and I'll hopefully be able to step up to 33's after I figure out what to do for a lift. I just want my rig to sit higher and get rid of that awful rake i have right now with my 20 year old springs and struts haha.
Also I'm sorry there's probably a million threads on this but I figured I'd mention it while asking about the BDS springs. Is there anything else besides what I've listed that I should get or replace when I do the lift? Also let me know if you know anything about the BDS springs. Thanks!
I install BDS lift kits at work all the time and have not had any issues whatsoever. Quality parts every time and customer service has always been great, and you can't beat the warranty.
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I use WIX filters for everything I can. Never had problems with them on any vehicle I've owned.
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Yakima and Thule have fit guides. The feet for my rails is the Thule system for the 4 door pathfinders, because they don't make one for the 2 doors that use different rails. My factory rack buckled under the weight and slightly bent, so I had to go this route. The feet use the T-Slot in your factory rails to mount. Its the podium foot pack 460 I believe.
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Recently purchased very first pathfinder. Even though I bought it with a no start issue. Turned out to be fusable link to Fuel injectors. Once that was fixed it runs rough. Not sure what to do next. It's a 90 2door 5 speed although I've had it for nearly a month and only driven it less than 50 miles I LOVE IT. I would like to find a parts rig in my area Oregon.
Like a TRUE 90 2 Door? MPFI 2 door or TBI?
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Got my new Cooper ST MAXX 31x10.5r15 tires mounted and made a 2" spacer for the rear springs using a new Polyurethane jeep leveling kit I had kicking around the shop. Had to do a little bit of trimming because of my offset, but I'm really liking the wide stance. Sitting quite a bit taller than before now. Also mounted some Rigid Dually Spots by my fenders with the security kit. Well worth it. Diagnosed my compressor to be bad, so now I have to send it in and wait for a replacement. Contemplating adding another compressor to the system as well.
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Welcome. Looks like you've definitely got a good start.
Best place to purchase hose replacements?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I've had to replace a few discontinued hoses, and as a last resort ended up at a hose warehouse and found something that worked.