glenn

While off -roading last week I noticed that front wheels wouldn't turn in 4HI, but did turn in 4LO. Dash board indicator light showed it as engaged and the shift into 4HI felt normal. Any ideas ? THANKS ! - glenn

Careful about raising front end too much; my install did same thing at first, when I tried to level it out ,the front axels were cranked too high . The CV angles were so acute that I started getting problems with them. I called Calmini and they said that a good rule of thumb is to have no more then 1" space between upper control arm and its' upper bump [stock] stop. Anymore then this and you risk damaging CV joints. Over time the lift has leveled out some, probably because the rear springs have compressed a little. Anyway, it's all good because when I load up the rear end with gear the extra weight levels it out just about perfectly. Good luck -glenn

Did you switch from drums to disc brakes in rear along the way ? If so you will need a different MC. Just a thought....

I put mine in the rear pillar panel

use teflon grease for the control arm bushings -glenn

I suppose I could ask for a little patience on this one. I'm still trying to figure out how many amp alt I need, and since it was 2 years ago I was hoping there might be some new members with a fresh perspective.

Do any of you guys have any experience with on-board welders, or maybe know someone who has ? Which ones are good? I know there are a few on the market but hard to evaluate based on web site claims. Also, how many amp alternator do you really need to do stick- weld repairs in the field ? Thanks much !! - glenn

BTW, make sure the new bolt can be torqued to Nissan spec. This happened to me when offroading in desert, went to some nissan dealer out in desert for emergent repair; they were able to retap and get bolt torqued to spec but they noted that only a couple of threads were holding . They strongly suggested that when I got home to have a full repair done, because even though it seemed OK they didn't think it would last long.Since they weren't going to get any of the additional repeir buisness I took them at they're word. When I got home the local Nissan dealer repaired it with a time-cert, which has lasted a couple of years and many off road trips since. Good luck - glenn

The engine was designed for 87, so thats what you should run. Higher octane won't help unless you are willing to change the engine tuning by changing timing,cams etc..

I would really look at rear drums; they're adjustable and since you said you had brakes tuned , the tech likely adjusted them for best braking. This causes some drag on the drums and led to worse milage on my'90. It does stop better though, so I decided to stick with it and favor braking over milage. Good luck - glenn

It could be front frame bolts[there's a write up on this by '88 somewhere here] bad shock or shock mount bushings; but I vote for upper or lower control arm bushings; if there rubber they made need to be replaced, if there poly [like mine that squeak] they need to be relubed. Good luck - glenn

Jim Wolfe technologies [JWT] makes a variety of cams; be careful though, there is a good chance you won't pass your next smog test with them. i've been told that this is a problem in California

MY 1990 has gear driven speedo; so when I changed to 32s it was off quite a bit. The gears need to be swapped out. I went to a shop and they did this; IIRC it wasn't too expensive.

Calmini also makes a good wd21 3" suspension lift

I agree ;it probably is the bushings on the steering linkage, this is a known problem on an older Pathy. You should also get your tires balanced again as this is the most common cause in my experience. An alignment check would be helpful too. These all contribute to the vibration and the loose bushings on the steering linkage make these more noticable. Good luck ! - glenn

I HAVE A 3" SL AND USE THE 48" WITHOUT PROBLEM. I USED TO MOUNT IT ACROSS THE REAR BUMPER TIRE CARRIER, NOW I JUST PUT IT ON THE BACK SEAT FLOOR !

I think it is a manufacturing/ quality problem. The installation appears to be done in a routine fashion.

Don't know exactly where to post this but just wanted to warn people; Got these shocks 6 months ago and put less then 500 easy miles on them. Shocks themselves are OK but rubber bushings in eyelets are completely thrashed. There are cracks and chunks of rubber on all of them. If there is any good news 4WP says they'll replace them with poly at no charge. Honestly though they should be compensating for all my time too. This is getting tiresome.

I agree w/ Simon regarding stereo. Here's another way to solve stereo problem: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/60-4...ELAID=220576095 If it was me, I'd probably just bypass the amps, like Simon suggested. Good Luck ! - glenn

"napora"

I would NOT dot do this. Firstly the current draw will likly exceed the switch rating and could lead to a fire. Also the excess heat generated in the lamp housing by running both filaments simultaneously will likely burn out the bulb and also possibly lead to melting the lamp plug and also maybe a short or fire.If you need more light consider putting some HID driving lights. Kragen sells some for about $100 each and you can buy a relay kit for another $25 or so. Good LUck ! - glenn

I had problem with squeaky poly bushings in Calmini lift; I fixed it with industrial grade teflon based lube. Now 3 years w/o squeak.

does anyone know if the lid for a 1999 will fit on 1990 ? are they same width ? THANKS! -- glenn

I had the Stillen, but I did not like them; After they heated up they were OK, but the first 10 kminutes of driving they were absolutely dangerous with barely any stopping power. I guess they are race pads, so afetr you ride them hard on a track and heat them up they stop OK. I would NOT get them for a daily driver. I got rid of them after 1000 miles. I now have the Hawks and they are much better. Goodluck - glenn

Norpath : JY = Junk Yard [salvage]