glenn

well , I have a cone air filter and already have cut a hole in grill to better allow fresh air to be "rammed " into engine compartment. I thought I would put a box around the backside of filter to keep hot air from engine away and funnel in incoming cold air under some pressure [ie whatever pressure that could be generated by foward movement of car]. Will denser cold air help ? Will this senario be enough to make a difference ? If I can get the materials I think I'll try it out and report back---glenn

Hello all ! I thought I try my hand at fabricating a cold air box for my '90. Question is : what materials to use ? I thought I 'd use stainless [cannot find heat rated plastics] for box but am open to suggestions. Also I need some kind of heat resistant weather stripping or insulation to make a seal with the hood. I've been to local auto parts and hardware stores . No one at these places can even begin to suggest what to use. ANY HELP ? Thanks much --glenn

does anyone think a cold air box built around the cone will add any performance ? Thanks ---glenn

has anyone heard of /used a "time-sert" ?--glenn

so guys help me out-I was wheeling in Joshua Tree and blew out bolt for spindle. -I limped into town and got someone to retap hole but he said it was temporary and wouldn't hold. So now I'm going back to Nissan dealer where I had truck aligned [they're ones who strpped hole when doing alignment] and get them to fix it. QUESTION : what is best/acceptable -- welding new nut to stripped hole/helicoil/retap and then redrill control arm for larger bolt ? THANKS --glenn

I've got to agree: I am a novice -- and the instructions and support did make a big difference ! -glenn

I have a Painless dual battery system. I like it because it would allow me to drain one down, like if using stereo or radio transmitter or lights or whatever with the engine off.Then I have one fresh battery to start with later on. Also ,if I ever get a winch I could conceivably couple them up to give more winch time -if I ever should need it. I like the pics above but I could not put second battery by air box because I have cone air filter and air pump there. I custom fabbed a larger tray and bolted it to stock battery tray. Then I got two Hawker 1200s and mounted them side by side .The Hawkers are more powerful for their size and much smaller then Optimas. I mounted the controls for the dual battery system on the dash near the stock ammeter. Good luck --glenn

Just a thought--when I replaced mine I got a short because the contacts for the dome light switch and the bulb itself had oxidized/corroded. Try cleaning the contacts.--glenn

well when you hear it pop rhythmically , while going in a stright line, and it appears in 4wd only, and only when the hubs are engaged and its coming from the wheel well --it probably does .

Clearly I'm not as perfect as some others here. All I can say is when I had a torn boot, and heard popping noise coming from the front end during 4wd , replacing the cv joint [with the half axel] solved the problem. This is a fact. Just trying to help--glenn

the sound and the fact that it's worse in 4wd makes me think it is the front cv joint and that you probably cooked it. I cannot explain the steering problem unless you also toasted the steering box too. I tore my cv boot and ended up replacing the entire driver's side half axel[~ $350]because the cv was done for and it cost nearly the same to replace the entire half axel, once you add in labor ; if you can tackle it yourself it will probabaly cost under a $100 for the cv alone but it's a tough job [imo] so good luck!--glenn

Hi all ! I have calmini 3" lift. If I change to low profile bump stops for upper and lower control arms I should get more wheel travel .Will this extra angle on CV joints cause damage to them or something else? THANKS ! ---glenn

I am not currently on the air due to local HOA rules. I intend to go mobile a some time within the next year. glenn

have you considered "Blackpanther" skid plates ? They are prefab and wll made. -- glenn

I am considering yaesu 757d vs icom-7000. Do a search to find how some guys wired their CB antennas for some ideas. Also not related to Pathies but still a must read is "k0bg.com" web site on mobiling. 73 glenn

Another thing to consider is that the further you stick out the more wear and stress you will put on your ball joints ;if you offroad a lot you could thrash them much more easily; I have what Mookie suggested and it seems to be working all right----glenn

I have 32x 11.5 BFG ATs and with those and the lift the steering had quite a lot of vibration. Balancing the tires helped but so did a steering stabilizer. Also, something to think about was that I soon developed popping sounds coming out of front ball joints probably due to increased angle of CV joints. I replaced stock auto hubs with Warn manuals and that cleared up .

hi grego! Well , I have the calmini lift. Here's what I can say : the rear does sit higher then front when empty about 1 inch ; with a full load of camping gear and gas it evens out some but is still higher. When I first got the lift I had the shop even out the front by over - cranking the T -bars but this really limited the front wheel travel and made for a VERY harsh ride because every little dip in the road caused the control arm to bottom out against the bump stops. Then I had the front set down lower again and this improved. In general I would have to say the ride is a lot firmer than my old stock set up but is not intolerable.

if you replaced the MC did you replace/adjust the pushrod? Do an internet search "master cylinder staging" You might find something helpful. Another consideration is whether there is a crack/ leak in one of the brake lines-if they're old and you manipulated them you could imagine that they could have been damaged and wouldn't hold pressure. just some thoughts --good luck ! ---glenn

Another thing it could be is the bushings at the the control arms, especially if you had them replaced with poly. Also use the search engine; in one of the pinned posts there is reference to other causes as well. Good luck it took me a long time to narrow it down to the uppper control arms---glenn

THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE. wELL i HAD THE BRAKE SHOP SWAP OUT THE "pOSIQUIET" PADS FOR sTILLEN /bRAKE PROS METAL MATRIX AND WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE. THanks to DJ Dank who suggested Axxis Metal Masters ;the Metal MAtrix, I suspect , are very similar but they are distributed by Stillen which is very near to me. My very subjective and anecdotal results are actually similar to what I've read. I could not lock up brakes at all with Posiquiet pads; with stock pads I could lock em up at 15mph; with metral matrix pads I can lock them at 30 mph on dry pavement

THANKS eveyone. Does anybody have experience with SS brakelines ? Will this help at all? Right now in order to maximum stop I can bottom out the brake pedal against the floor boards.[ Yes I had the lines bled and the rears drums adjusted [twice]]--glenn

The stopping of my '90 SE with front disks and rear drums was never great and with bigger tires is awful. I got the brakes redone with "posiquiet" pads and slotted front rotor but no improvemnt [even after braking them in and bedding them] What pads has anybody used that worked better than stock? Noise is a concern but is second to stopping! THANKS !! --glenn

HEY everybody ! What are the best pads to use to get most stopping power?

I recently swapped out original 1990 OE bulbs for GE Nighthawk. Got them at Walmart for about $25. Maybe they're a little better/ brighter. Prior to buying I did internet searches that all rated Nighthawk same as Osram silverstar and Philips Vision plus.. So its not a scientific study but I would tell someone not to spend too much money or go to crazy ordering light bulbs from Europe -- becuase it just didn't seem to make that much improvement over my 15 year old OEMs ! At this point I really believe you would have to go to HIDs to get any significant improvement but they are really expensive and most are not street legal. --my 0.02 -----glenn