mechanicalbaron
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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron
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I've found that when using my cell with the taptalk app that I can upload pics from my gallery (Android). However I cannot with photobucket using "img" on my cell. But I'm also a newbie and still trying to find my way around.
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Very nIce, love the color.
Here we go! All stock! cant wait to get started on her! -
I would add that the code mentioned is an.OBD II non continuous monitor. Meaning that if the code is cleared that it may need to driven several times before the engine computer will run the code diagnostics again. However this is an great write up for an common problem for this model pathfinder.
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I'm down for hungry valley anytime!Lets do this! I want to do a meet anywhere on west coast. I know a bunch of us are in CA, OR, WA and BC/Vancouver. Kinda wanted to do a local-ish meet or maybe even 2, one north and one south. Suggested it to the kids on the Facebook, but they're kids, sooo... didn't happen.
I did get directed to the national Xterra / Path meet in TN, which sounds awesome, and in Tennessee.
As for Central Cal, Tahoe/Reno is a good middle ground for west coast. Tons of trails and camp grounds up in Sierras. Prairie City is out that way if we want a state OHV park in Cal. Or more towards the coast is Hollister Hills with 800 acres for trucks (3000 for quads n bikes), camping and picnick areas.
I would be willing to go to Shasta/Quincy, some great camping spots with a solid set of distance semi tech trails. Also be up for going south to Pismo which also has camping (Oceano Dunes) or Hungry Valley?
There are parks all over Chico Area. Private or state. You can look up local ohv allowed fire roads and trails through state park sites. Clay Pit is up there too, which is State OHV Park. OHV parks are way more fun, but the state forestry parks that allow OHV can be almost as fun if you know the right spots.
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The first thing I would do is the timing belt! Just replace it. I prefer factory ones personally. That is an interference motor and if it skips timing it will bend valves. I just got my 90 SE about a year ago and love it. Enjoy.
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Not really, just try to get as much out as possible, not sure if any one else has any suggestions. But very important to change the oil when your done.Update: I have a 3.5L and it for sure does have the shims. I looked at the clearances and all of them are in tolerance, and pretty well within it with the exception of one of them being at .33mm (max spec being .37). I am noticing not much oil is reaching the lifters on cylinder 1. So I'm back to trouble shooting. Maybe the plate behind the rear timing plate is leaking? Or maybe excessive sludge build up? I want to try and clean the sludge out first then worst case scenario pull the timining cover. Any solid suggestion for sludge removal to try and help get more oil up top?
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That's a real bummer, sludge is not a good sign. And unfortunately trying to clean it out can cause other problems. As far as oil flow to the valve train make sure you unplugged all the coils(in case you only pulled one valve cover) so it will not start. Have a buddy crank the engine while you look at the cams etc.. You will want to see a reasonable amount of oil flowing around all the cam lobes and caps. If you see one area that's not getting sufficient oil to it that is likely causing noise. If the cam "buckets" can't get sufficient oil they can wear into the head and bind when the cam pushes the valve down.
That being said, I'm sure that there are a lot if different opinions on my next thought based off what you are describing. If the valves are out if adjustment, why? That design does not typically need to be serviced.
If you remove all the sludge you can get to, I personally would immediately change the oil and filter, run the engine until it's at operating temp and drain the oil only, refill it with fresh oil and run again until at operating temp then change the oil and filter again. Reason being is to try to flush out any debris left from removing the sludge. I would not use a flush to try to clean it. Lastly oil pressure, there's oil passage plates on the rear timing cover that van blow out the gaskets causing low oil pressure at idle and starving the top end of oil, thats why checking oil pressure is so important. However that will typically cause codes p0011 @ p0021 intake valve timing. Hope that helps. Real bummer about the sludge though.
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Your are correct depending on the year, after 08/2001 the went to a shimless type. Before tearing into the engine I would make sure oil is full, oil pressure is ok (15 psi at idle, 43 at 2000 rpm), if ok then check valve clearance and make sure you're getting oil to the top end/valvetrain.
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No and no. In order to remove the " buckets" on the valves you will need to remove the cams. Removing the cams will require removing the timing chain cover. Realistically you need to pull the cams and buckets and inspect all to check for wear, however maybe make sure the oil level is ok prior to anything.
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Thanks, there is no rust at all, but being in the south west we take a beating from Sun and heat on the rudder parts and interior.That looks good. I'm always amazed at the difference between California cars and snow region cars with regards to rust. Looks really clean.
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Agreed, even with the discounts I get I'm dumbfounded on the cost of some of the parts. Frustrating when you are trying to keep an older vehicle maintained.Oh, after the many talks i have had with Rob, i totally get it, labor rate is fair (somewhat fair, depending on who were talking about), for what a dealer has access to and doesn't really have a way to charge for, so its thrown in (according to Rob, harness repair parts are an example of this, pigtails, plugs, etc).
But even shops are expensive, i just had a quote of almost a grand for a clutch change on my 96 from a highly rated, transmission dedicated shop. So yeah, im going to do that myself, but he also quoted me around that for a trans rebuild, which was a little disheartening, but may have to have it done.
At any rate, labor rates are not my issue with dealer pricing, its part pricing that should be a crime.
-Kyle
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As a dealer mechanic I realize that dealer prices are high, however you have to consider several things when going to a dealer. The mechanic only makes a small part of the labor rate, the dealership has a lot of overhead cost, and the people whom you are dealing with don't set the prices. Unfortunately it is difficult to be competitive with smaller shops. However if you can find a good independent shop that does quality work and you trust I strongly recommend going to them! There are a lot of awesome independent shops out there! And word of mouth is the best reference.
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My 90 pathfinder has 4 wheel disk brakes, however no rear wheel ABS. But I got auto AC =)
Not sure the production date in it though.
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Better than napalm?
And do you mean polyurethane in stead of neoprene? I doubt you are going diving or surfing with the Pathy...
B
Working on uploading pics. This is the box of goodies I ordered and put in.
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Welcome on board. Having a Nissan mechanic will definitely be an asset for this community.
For pics, either use Tapatalk and uploading pics is super easy, or from a computer, create a photobucket account and upload your photos into there. Then copy and paste the IMG url into the text window.
Hope this works for an image. We'll see.
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Yep, polyurethane, oops. Kind of mix and match between prothane and energy suspension. Just finished replacing all the bushings. A lot easier than I thought it would be. Worst part was the alignment. We don't have any shims so had to substitute with washers. Drives so much better!
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Going to order the 2 piece set, a little bit cheaper. Today I'm getting my practice on the front upper and lower control arms, burning out the rubber and installing neoprene. Nothing better that the smell of burning rubber in the morning.
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Huge thanks to adamzan and precise1, checked out automotive customizers and they have exactly what I'm looking for....
Originally I was looking at the first reply by adamzan and thought that he was referring to rugged rocks which is whom I got my rear springs from. Later realized that he posted a link to A. C.
That being said, have either of you guys done that upgrade? Do you recommend using the 2 piece bushings or the single bushing? Being a dealer mech I have little knowledge of which is best.
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This is where I got my OME rear coil springs from, called and chatted with the guy for a bit. Super nice dude! I'll have to give him a call again as the rear link bushings were an afterthought. Highly recommend this place.
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Has anyone tried installing neoprene bushings to replace the factory rubber link bushings? Not able to find any online.
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Welcome on board. Having a Nissan mechanic will definitely be an asset for this community.
For pics, either use Tapatalk and uploading pics is super easy, or from a computer, create a photobucket account and upload your photos into there. Then copy and paste the IMG url into the text window.
Thank you! And I've been trying, however I'm using an Android cell and have little access to a computer(thanks to the wife and daughter). I will get some pics soon. I'm definitely willing to help with technical problems as much as possible. However being at a dealer I'm ignorant to the off road community and modifications. Therefore that is why I'm here. Maybe I can help out some people and maybe they can help me.
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mechanicalbaron..... good handle! Say you don't perchance feel like making your way to Montreal to fix my rear wiper do you?
Sorry but NO, well maybe if you have enough BEER=)
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Most likely you need new fuel injectors. The best way to test/check is to measure the injector resistance at each one. You are looking for about 12 and 1/2 ohms per injector. Measure through the harness connectors on passenger valve cover, if they are not all close and equal then removing the upper intake and inspecting the connection at each injector is necessary, look for green corrosion. If ok remeasure resistance at each individual injector to confirm. Best to do the first check cold and then when engine is at operating temp. If for example five injectors are at 11.7 ohms and one is at 36.4 ohms then you have isolated the problem. Of course make sure no vacuum leaks, mass air flow sensor not contaminated with air filter oil(K&N), fuel pressure regulator hose at rear of intake is ok, etc.
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Greetings. I'm Brion. Just joined the forum. I've seen it online several times while searching for info on pathfinders. I've been a Nissan mechanic for almost 9 years and have gained a great respect for the product. I have recently acquired a 90 pathfinder and have fallen in love with it. Having had three other Nissans (09 frontier,11 altima and most recent 14 Rogue) the pathfinder is my favorite. I've worked out all the bugs and I'm ready to start customizing it to suite my needs. When I can figure out how to get some pics on the forum I will be sure to.
Howdy from The Last Frontier!
in New People Start Here!
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