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mechanicalbaron

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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron

    $5, 5 Minute Rear Sway Bar Disconnects

    in The Garage

    Posted

    You are making me regret throwing my rear swaybar in the scrap pile, but I have not noticed a problem with my stiff AC coils though. mechanicalbaron, the method you describe if I understand it correctly would put a twisting load on the disconnect right? I would think there would be a lot of mechanical advantage working to shear your pin. But I don't know how big of a sleeve you are considering, if big enough it could work.

    I was thinking about that, the sleeve and pin would have to be hardened somehow. And long term I'm not sure about wear and tear. But after looking at the jeep setup I was thinking that is brilliant, how can you simplify that setup?, seems like sway bar disconnect is a major benefit to pathfinder's.

     

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    $5, 5 Minute Rear Sway Bar Disconnects

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I've been entertaining an idea that I got when working on my brothers jeep. Newer jeeps have a electronic disconnect on the front sway bar. That being said my idea is to basically pull off the bar, cut it in half, install a sleeve, weld it on one side, reinstall it and drill a hole through the non-welded side for a pin or bolt to be installed. Seems like a clean way to make a disconnect and not have to worry about the hardware when off road. The two downsides I see are noise and getting the pin or bolt back in when your done wheeling.

    Any thoughts on this?

     

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    97 Pathy SE wont start when warm?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    T belt is 100k for R50 IIRC.

     

    Jeff, A timing light will just tell you that the crank is in time with the number 1 ignition. I personally would also think if it was a tooth off it would be an all the time thing as well. Same with a compression leak on that cylinder. P0302 cylinder 2 misfire. I didnt realize our ECU setup could monitor individual cylinders, thats kind of cool. So 2 steps. 1 figure out if the misfire is due to fuel or spark. 2. find out what the heck it is. so the theory about the clogged rail may be out, because it seems like all of them would be fuel starved, not just the #2. Ohming the injectors seems ok. you don't have to look up what the resistance are, just hit 3 and they should all read pretty much the same. change the number 2 spark plug wire with another one to see if it follows the wire. that will eliminate that if it isnt faulty. For instance, just swap the number 2 and number 4 on plugs and the dizzy. "if you can get the length out of them" or if you changed them and saved some of the old ones as backup like i do, swap it with an old one. You cant really reach the injector plugs on the even side without ripping the intake off. kindof a long way to go for an ohm reading. I would do that after i ran out of options, if the injector plug was damaged or corroded, it seems like the misfire would be more consistent. General air intake, or General fuel delivery is out because it would take out bother sides of the motor, so its something specific to the number 2. While you are pulling the plug wires to swap them, inspect the number 2 spark plug, during the starter fluid days, it may have simply fouled that plug for whatever reason. while you have the plug out, get a step stool or something and look down in the spark plug hole and see if you see any liquid. If you do see liquid reflecting back at you, shake the truck and see if the liquid moves easily, if not, its oil, meaning your valve stem seal is probably leaking badly after its warmed up, or coolant if it moves easily meaning the dreaded Head gasket leak.

     

     

    Now that the hard start is fixed "hopefully" I am starting to think maybe it is something easy.

    Let me get this right, u have new plugs, wires, and dizzy all done as maintenance while chasing the hard start? I am curious as to when it started doing it. when it was having a problem with hard starts and you used starter fluid, did it misfire when it started? or did it start misfiring and stumbling on fire up after you replaced the vacuum cut valve? Just as a precaution double check all of your work back there, im not sure why it would cause a #2 cylinder misfire, but the gurgle gurgle when it misfires is still bugging me. the thing that keeps bugging me is how a vacuum cut valve or any of that system in general would cause a number 2 misfire. YOu said you got your obdII ready at HF? next time you have an issue stop at an auto parts store and have them read the code for you just to verify the OBD you bought is doing its job correctly. Some things from there i would by all day long, other things, well not so much, i have seen some fairly shady quality control stuff from there.

     

    Rear is dragging on a Friday night have a large list of "to do" for tomorrow, going to hit it. Hopefully you get her lined out man

     

    Pat

    Ahaha, dogonnat, I was thinking a 3.0L, you sir are right on the money. The only thing I would disagree with is ohming out the injectors. Can be done through the harness on the right valve cover connector. Gotta work tomorrow so I'll look that up. I was thinking 3.0 for t-belt replacement but 3.3L is 100k. For some reason I was thinking 95 model year. However the fundamentals remain the same.

     

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    97 Pathy SE wont start when warm?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Your coming up on the millage fur a t-belt replacement. 60k IIRC, compression test would be the easiest way to check. But if the long start is fixed then you probably should look more into the misfire issue. Do you smell gas? Can you check injector resistance? If you look under the intake behind the distributor does the injector connector look ok? Those connectors are known to get corroded, had to replace all of mine. Compression test still wouldn't hurt, I'm sure you can get a cheap tester at harbor freight.

     

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    97 Pathy SE wont start when warm?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    There are lots of things that I was looking at, disregard the crank sensor, that is only used for OBD II missfire per the ESM. If it was a ECCS relay then it wouldn't matter if you use a starting fluid to help start. And it seems that you've covered mostly everything else. You have to look at what the engine needs to fire, compression, spark and proper timing for a 4 stroke engine. If you downloaded the ESM there is a chart for symptom diagnostics for long start when hot. However there is nothing that touches on timing belts being off timing. I've seen problems resulting from that causing misfire, long cranking time and rough running. Deal with stuff like this alot and at the point your at that is the next thing I would look at. Not saying that's your problem, however it should be ruled out. Additionally if when the engine is running at idle and you can hear a rattle from the timing cover or distributor area you need to ret the timing belt. And a factory belt is what I would recommend. Ask for value advantage from nissan. Hope that helps.

     

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    97 Pathy SE wont start when warm?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Did a little research on your problem, and after reading through the thread and looking at the esm at work I would like to throw out there that maybe the timing belt is off one tooth on one of the cam sprockets or possibly the cam sprockets are swapped? Both can certainly cause your problem. Easy enough to check as one side (bank) of the engine will have less compression than the other side. But this is just a random thought.

     

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    • Like 1

    2005 Nissan Pathfinder - new oil pump but low oil pressure signal can't go away

    in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Oil is typically thicker when cold, thicker oil results in higher oil pressure. If you have low pressure and noise even when off idle then that is not a good sign. And an indication of a major lack of oil changes, that engine it's really resilient to going over the recommended service schedule. However I have seen a couple random bearing failures over the years. Unfortunately it would be best to take it to a pro for further diag.

     

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    2005 Nissan Pathfinder - new oil pump but low oil pressure signal can't go away

    in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Is the issue at idle? Does the oil pressure increase off idle? If that is the case it is possible that the vtc passage plates have lost part if the gaskets. Usually will set codes P0011 and P0021. And turn on the MIL.

    Worn cam, main, and rod bearings will cause the same symptom.

    If it's all the time then you have serious problems. Thats when you need to look at the oil pickup.

    Also feedback on what you end up finding the cause to be will help others searching the forum looking for help.

     

     

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    Hey Mods, I have a question about a new member

    in New People Start Here!

    Posted

    Perhaps that's why I never got accepted to the R32 GTR pages :(

    Yeah a few years back I tried and Microsoft would not help me. I was hoping something new was learned (and it was but not in the direction of a fix)

    I guess I'll look into another email.

     

    any suggestions besides Gmail? ISP is a no for me, I move too much.

    Lol, GTR pages, that's a whole different level. Great cars but people that own them are the experts. Every body else are not worthy. I despise working on R35's. The cars are awesome, owners.....not so much=)

     

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    HELP! im overheating

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    If the pathfinder sounds like a semi truck that is a good indication that the fan clutch is working. Even if it sounds like that when cold and never changes when hot. The most simple thing to check is air restriction ( is there leaves, dirt, plastic bags etc. ) blocking the condenser/radiator.

    Second would be the thermostat, the best way to test it is to remove it and inspect, put it in a pot of water and boil the water. Should open when the water gets to boiling point. However for the effort I would just replace it.

    Last is the radiator. When the pathfinder is cool! Remove the radiator cap and look at the rows inside, is there calcification( looks kind of like white rocks or mineral deposits forming around the rows).

    Calcification in the radiator will restrict flow and inhibit heat transfer resulting in overheating.

    If the radiator is copper/brass it can be cleaned/ rodded out.

    If its aluminum you will need to replace it.

    If you have a copper/brass style radiator I would recommend keeping it amd having it cleaned instead of replacing it with a aluminum radiator.

     

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    Starter install on a 2001+

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    1 hour labor is $300 there? I need to move!!

     

    If you have access to a lift, not so bad. Or if you can get it pretty up in the air on some heavy duty jack stands properly supported

    $300 dollars an hour? Holy crap! I need to move! Replacing is not a big deal. Disconnect the negative battery cable and with a little common sense and mechanical inclination not a difficult repair.

     

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    Is overheating in 100 degree weather normal?

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Mine would get hot driving up grades, especially with the a.c. on. Last week I pulled the radiator and had it rodded out and cleaned. Much better. But basics first, make sure there it's coolant in it. And precise is spot on. You can remove the radiator cap and see if there is scale in the tank, I've seen gauge senders give false readings etc. I'm betting on the radiator being plugged by how you've described this. Cost me $85 to have it cleaned but I had to take it out and bring it to him.

     

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