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mechanicalbaron

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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron

  1. How long have you owned it? If you've recently bought it and are not familiar with a 3.0l then it's probably normal. Mine tacs out at 3250 rpm at 70 mph, bigger hills I have downshift to 4th gear. Mines a 90 se with 31x10.50 tires (stock size). Just want to make sure your not trying to fix "normal". All the other guys are right on the money with there recommendations. I would be inclined to check compression and leak down percentage if you truly feel there is a lack of power and the o2 and mass airflow sensor are ok.

     

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    • Like 1
  2.  

    You might be able to eye-ball this by looking through the fill plug hole. You'll be looking at the back of the carrier; if you see another 8 smaller bolt heads inside the circle of ring gear bolt heads, then it's the 4-pinion carrier. Without, it's just the 2-pinion (1-piece).

     

    Honestly not sure how good the view will be, but I have a pair of R200's in my garage so maybe I'll find out.

    Looked mine and a 95 up this morning, 90 is for sure a 4 pinion and as of production date 12/94 they are 2 pinion style. Sent an email to lokka to inquire about application this morning. Hopefully they will get back to me within the next couple days.

     

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  3.  

    Yeah, it's probably more of a 'heads-up' than anything. To be honest, I've seen conflicting information about which carriers actually made it into the R200's in the early 90's. The Nissan USA parts website doesn't make much mention of it, only the 2-pinion...but then again, they have so many permutations that are likely filtering out some configs. Courtesy Parts' diagrams do show a 4-pinion available for that era and nothing else.

     

    Try going to parts.nissanusa.com and putting in your VIN there. Once your VIN is 'set', go to Power Train [F], then Front Final Drive [381]. This will show the parts diagrams specific to your vehicle, which will indicate which carrier you have.

    I work at Nissan, one of those stealership mechanics. I looked up in the service manual to see what's involved. There are 2 types of front diff's listed for a 90. So when I went to the lokka site and put in my vehicle info they had one for the 4 and 6 cylinder front diff's only. I'll try calling it emailing them today to see what they say. Thanks for the info. Would suck to buy one and either have to return it or find a front diff that it would work in.

     

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  4. I know that the R50 guys have been using the OME springs to get about 2" of lift even though they are spec'd at 0.5".

    OME does have a rear spring part number of #2920. Does anyone here have personal experience this this spring? are they getting .75" ? or maybe more?

     

    A good deal awaits to anyone willing to take a change and experiment.

    Ph:909-547-4651

     

     

     

    I got a set from you early this year, I got a little over 1 3/4" lift. I'm not sure how much the stock springs were sagged out. I've been really happy with them so far. The ride is good, not to stiff.

     

     

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  5. No coolant coming out of the radiator cap pretty much just stays there. I should smell it and see. Thanks

    Looking for coolant being pushed out of the radiator while testing with a leak down tester is what I mean. Example, when testing cylinder 3, coolant is being pushed out of the radiator when the cap is not on it. That would indicate a breach between the cylinder and a coolant passage.

    And what I mean by seeing and smelling coolant is with that much loss you should see or smell it after a drive.

     

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  6. Ok. I give up.... I'm going to download all the bestest apps that make my pathy the best and not share them with anybody. ...

    Hahahaha J/k .I just thought this would be a cool collection of tools we use.

    Lol, looks like this post got buried below other topics.

    I have a hiking app and it works ok but the places I've gone I've been riding dirt bikes at for years so I know them pretty well.

    I installed clinometer in mine because I wanted to make sure I didn't roll over, the movement from them is pretty normal when turning/braking etc. because of the mechanical nature of their function.

    Anyway hanging out in the garage tonight, enjoying a beer and watching this thing they call RAIN! Cheers!c77437b103dc7e5ff4ee656625d73334.jpg

     

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  7. If I have it pressure tested they should be able to find it? Meaning any leaks?

    It should. Unless it is a head gasket issue. The best way I've found is to do a leak down test. If it has a breached head gasket it will push the coolant out of the top if the radiator when the cap is removed. When using a block tester or 5 gas analyzer to "sniff" the coolant you don't always get a conclusive result.

     

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  8. Does it have a 3.3L or a 3.5L? On the 3.3 the intake gaskets will leak on the passenger rear and is really difficult to see. Seems like with that much coolant loss you should see something. Milky sludge under the oil cap? Milky oil or trans fluid? Runs rough for a few seconds when cold started? Do you smell coolant when driving or after you get out of your car?

     

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  9. Not sure what a block tester is, but you might want to have it pressure tested, that should tell you right away. If it was a head gasket, you would probably see an oily film on the coolant in the radiator or you would have a lot of white smoke/condensation from the tail pipe.

    How much low over what amount of driving?

     

    B

    Hey man, a block tester checks for basically exhaust gas in the cooling system. Kind if looks like a turkey baster with a couple separate sections one which you put a blue detection liquid in, when you pull a sample from the radiator if exhaust is present the liquid will turn green. But they don't always work that great. Got one somewhere in my tool box at work that I never use.

     

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  10. Good to hear. Looking forward to the OME's arriving today.

    This weekend should be interesting. Got the pathfinder back yesterday. Opted to do the power valves myself as the shop wanted 800 to do them. Was hoping to save some time by taking it in and having the shop do it. But the good news is the inspection turned put great. Just needs brake pads and am external oil cooler. should be lookin good after Sunday

    Not a bad job to do, patience, a good magnet(just in case), some loctite you'll be ok.

     

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  11. Thanks. Im quite lucky, after i finish they pathy she wants me to start a scout build for her. Its like hitting the lotto.

     

    Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

    Lol, I can appreciate that! When my wife and I were dating, took her dirt bike riding. It was a nasty, rainy, sloppy, muddy day. She told me that she could ride. That girl jumped on a YZ250, dropped the clutch and needless to say 18 years later she's still my buddy!

    Still don't tell her that I've spent more than $100 on anything I buy! Your in the right place. There is a ton of information here and some really clever modifications outlined in this forum.

     

     

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  12. Congrats on the fiance going out if town! First bit of advise from what my father in-law tells me, "it's better to ask for forgiveness than permission"!

    If you love the pathfinder, get as much done to it as possible before you get married!

    Lastly never ever tell your fiance/wife that you've spent more than $100.00 no matter what you do to it!

    Congrats and enjoy the pathfinder! And maybe the fiance/wife 3 weeks out of the month

     

     

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    • Like 1
  13. Mechanicalbaron, first thing that comes to my mind is have the two halves of the sway bar end with the spline portion of a scrap torsion bar or axle shaft, so that the two spline parts sit next to each other. The two are joined together with the corresponding internal spline of the donor system, be it hub or whatever the torsion bar indexes into, the joining internal spline part can slide to one side separating the two. It would be exactly the type of force the spline was designed to experience, but probably less. It would be a lot of work, if the front sway bar dose not change offroad performance, then it would be one of those projects done just to see if it can be done, as a design challenge of sorts.

    I've thought of that also, I just don't have the fabrication skill or tools to do something like that. Certainly would be a more solid type of coupling.

     

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