mechanicalbaron
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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron
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If it had them they would have been mounted under the bumper. Also you would have a switch on the left side of the dash.this is my grill area. did it have fog lights at some point?
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I've been wondering if anyone has successfully swapped a MAF, the stock ones on the 3.0 are tiny compared to the ones on the 3.3 engines.
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Check power and ground at the coils. Should be red power and black ground. If no power check the fuses. If fuses ok check the relay
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At that point I would dive into the service manual (you can download it) and cover the basics. Check power and ground at a coil (if one has it they all should ). If that's OK the service manual likely will tell you to check continuity on the signal wire between the ecm and each coil. Which likely is fine. While your at the ecm check power and ground. But if you can use a scanner and read data they are likely ok. Check for start/crank signal while cranking it if your scanner has that capability.I did pull 2 coils and spark plugs today to check for spark, they werent soaked, but definetely smelled of fuel. I confirmed I am not getting a spark at the 2 coils I checked. I also used my code reader in live data to confirm the ecu is showing 200rpm while cranking the car so to me that would show the crank position sensor registerring. There are still no codes.
If the ecu was somehow all of the sudden taken out by my iacv code Ive had for years, is this even the condition it would cause? (no spark) I am curious if I am able to even get a ecu from ebay/junkyard or is that openning a whole new can of worms with the keys and incompatible computers and such. Is tehre a way to tell which ECU may be fried, I feel there are a few ECU's on this truck, Ive yet to ever see any of them during the years Ive had it
If you have a add on alarm system remove it. Just my 2 cents, that's what I would do if I had it in my shop.
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Like 5523 said, possible NATS/ key issue, there is a little led light for the alarm that will be on solid. Will set coded p1615 or p1610. If that's not it I would pull out a spark plug and check it for being fuel soaked. If it's soaked and has spark it's flooded. You'll have to remove all the coils and plugs and let the cylinders dry out. (FYI if it is fuel soaked /flooded don't crank it with the coils plugged in or you're going to have a bad day)
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Yes, the parts guy needs to look closer at the options available.Ok, so does Moog make a left hand thread for the OTR or do I need new inners?
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Not sure the year you have but the 86 to 95 have different threads left to right. Outer tie rod ends have a left and right hand thread. The inner are the same. As an example (don't quote me on the exact placement of the tie rods) the left inner and right outer would be the same. And the right inner and left outer would be the same (noting this as an example only!). I ran into this issue with autozone when installing a grassroots centerlink and having to swap my inner tie rods to a large taper style.
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Go on amazon and get Rancho, there about 50 each and free shipping. I'll get you part numbers for the 3 inch longer tonight when I get home. I also have a full set of KYB that have about 6k mi. On them that u just took off mine if you just need something.
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Where would you get a remapped ecu?
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I'm with Adamzan, take it back. Have them fix it right. That was a common mistake but the shop that replaced the oil pan needs to correct their error.
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Ahhaaa, didn't think of that. Very good point.True and I read that you said 'getting power from a fusible link at the battery' so that might be the intermittent issue. Try putting the ignition to ACC then jiggle the fusible link while turning the key to see if it makes any buzzing noise.
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Typically if a fuse was the issue it would not be an intermittent issue,it would all the time. Nissan schematics are kind of odd, the only power source for the starter solenoid I can see would be through the ignition switch, getting power from a fusible link at the battery, which is why I'm wondering if he has an interlock switch . That adds a little more to look at in the schematic.Maybe it just a fuse! Look at that pic top right hand corner. I see a couple fuses there for ignition switch.
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Interlock switch and relay to clarify for a manual trans US vehicle.
From what I'm seeing your vehicle does not have one.
Manual trans is the interlock switch.
Auto trans is the inhibitor switch.
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Do you have a interlock switch on your dash? The schematic doesn't specify. It only shows signal to the starter solenoid directly from the ignition switch. I've ignition switches go bad in same year maximas. I've found the best way to check that is to wiggle the key back and forth when it is turned to the start/crank position, if it starts to crank it indicates poor contact internal the ignition switch. If it's the starter motor smacking it with a hammer and a long extension while having a buddy try to crank. If it starts turning it after smacking it that points to the starter motor or solenoid. But be really careful to not arc out the battery cables at the solenoid. That's about the best I can tell you.
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From what I'm seeing your vehicle does not have one.
Manual trans is the interlock switch.
Auto trans is the inhibitor switch.
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From what I'm seeing your vehicle does not have one.
Manual trans is the interlock switch.
Auto trans is the inhibitor switch.
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That is odd. I'm curious to look at the service manual when I get to work tomorrow.
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Maybe because of the difference in years? Mine is a 90 with a 5 speed manual. Is yours a automatic?This is what I have on my passenger fender wall.
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Blue one in the middle with the two connector plugs.
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Cool...glad that helped. Its a better diagram than the one in the FSM that you should also have as a reference for other work you will end up doing.
I have to give credit to Akorhill aka Rob who was kind enough to share that document.
FYI - There is No Vacuum diagram attached to the underside of the hood. Just the standard info specs about the engine.
Most cars come with one for emissions testing and inspection.
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My first thought was a wheel cylinder. Wasn't sure if you had a drum brake model. Being you just had brakes done and now your losing fluid, I would look under the rear at the backing plates and see if anything is wet around the wheel cylinder or bottom of the plate. If they are leaking and your losing that much fluid you should see something. The oil on the right front frame rail likely is from the power steering return hose or radiator /cooler like the others mentioned.
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Love those old broncos, wish I had one. I think maybe you took my post out of context. To produce the horse power and torque numbers you want from a vg30 I'm not sure is possible with a naturally aspirated engine. Seems that the best way to go with our older pathfinders is a vg33 swap. I am curious if with a more aggressive cam, higher compression, remapped ecm, and maybe some port work on the heads what kind of numbers could be achieved.I'm abundantly aware of the need for torque over HP and although this is my first Pathfinder, this is just one of many 4x4 I have owned. If you reread my post you will notice that the reference to the vg30de was just that, a reference for the HP and Torq rates that I am looking for. I also chose to state the specifics to the build of the vg30e I will be doing. As I stated, I just want to make sure I'm making a 5 hr motor, not a 5 min motor.
Pictured below is a 66 bronco that I actually built from the ground up.
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The vg30de is a dual overhead cam engine. Although it shares the vg designation it's a different beast. Keep in mind that 4wd vehicles benefit more from torque than horsepower. For me the question is how can I get more torque from this little engine? Other than doing a vg33 swap.
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I've never had to replace rear suspension bushings on a WD21 in the 10 years working at a Nissan dealer, r50's all the time for some reason. After replacing all of my shocks that was the first thing that came to mind was the rear bushings. It was after a quick trip offroading that I realized that after airing down my tires that the wobble was gone, after driving it for a couple weeks at a tire pressure of 26 psi never had it happen again until I put the pressure back to 40 psi. I do realize that wear and tear is dependent on the geographic region you reside. Out here seems to destroy anything that is rubber. Still haven't replaced my rear bushings, it's on the "to do" list. However I agree that closely inspecting the rear link bushings should be the first step in isolating this type of problem.It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms.
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New 93 XE in the CA foothills.
in New People Start Here!
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Hardest part of doing the timing belt is removing the crank pulley.
Not sure a dealership is the best for your lock problem. To expensive. Maybe a mobile locksmith? Maybe pulling the front door panels and checking the linkage between the lock cylinder and latch.
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