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mechanicalbaron

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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron

  1. I wasn't aware that the washers were on wrong, Are you certain that they go round to bushing? I copied the original assembly pattern.. When I get the stabilizer bushings I will check into it...

    A tap test?

    I haven't gone over it since this past spring, The passenger side rear frame over wheel well was rotted out when I got it, I went at it with the air chisel and fabricated a new channel sleeve and welded it into place... I know shes rough around the edges... Im gonna try to clean it up and spray it with undercoating again, salt up here on the roads is terrible for any vehicle.

    Shes got a wobble in er when Im shifting and especially on the highway you notice it when I let off the gas and when accelerating ... I'm trying to get that wobble out of her by replacing bushings and bearings if need be but I'm no mechanic, I just dabble cause I cant afford a mechanic and I have lots of tools and It's fun for me.. I don't know what I'll do next cause the wobble seems to be in the rear

    When I first got mine it would randomly get a wobble when going over certain bumps on the freeway, like bridge overpasses. The only way to stop it was to either let off the gas or stab the throttle. After replacing all the shocks I assumed it was from the rear axle link bushings but none were blown out. I found that when running my tire pressure at 26 psi that it went away. I usually run mine at 40 psi. Which didn't make any sense to me but it worked. I ended up replacing all the bushings in the front suspension with polyurethane and went back to 40 psi tire pressure. Hasn't happened again. So try running your tire pressure at 26 psi for a while if you aren't already and see if that helps.

     

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  2. Yeah feeling much better Lol, I literally almost had a stroke when I saw the shipping. And was a little leary after ordering the idler arm brace. But realistically AC seems to be one of the few places to get upgrades for the older pathy's. Guessing you can't put a price on love...?

     

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  3. Warns are a great investment, but you could save some extra cash by going with either Milemarker or Rugged Ridge, they typically hold up just fine unless you're into frequent hard core rock crawling.

     

    As far as what you'll need with the lift, depends on which route you take. If you go with one of the "kits" from AC, I'd recommend the KYB struts and Bilstien shocks which is a little more expensive but well worth the money. In addition I'd get new strut mounts and bearings, as well as a pair of camber bolts. You can piece your own kit together quite a bit cheaper than what AC gets by just getting the springs from them, and everything else from other sources (AC is not shy on there shipping prices either).

    I'll say it, AC straight up bends you over on their shipping! They should include Vasaline or KY jelly with your order! When I was going to order 4 shocks for mine it was $70. For shipping. I ended up searching part numbers ( On NPORA) and ordered all, cost $1.00 more per shock and with Amazon prime had free 3 day shipping. When I purchased my idler arm brace they charged $15.00 shipping and it took over 3 weeks to get the part. Booooo on AC! Lol, feel much better now

     

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  4. About an hour and a half.

    That sucks, was hoping you were a little closer. Anyway if you want some guidance on the pathfinder issues PM me your cell and we can figure out what's wrong. I'm at the local dealer and can point you in the right direction.

     

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  5.  

    Jeep cracked its starter, so thats just a money issue.

    My dad's 3.3 wd21 won't idle and barely starts, seems like it might be fuel related but I don't know enough to figure it out.

    How far are you from Simi Valley?

     

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  6. I know its short notice but a couple of us were planning on going to red rock tomorrow and meeting at the rangers station if anyone is interested.

    We will also be going next weekend.

    Sadly I have to work this weekend. Would love to go. Have camped and ridden dirt bikes out at Red Rock and Jawbone canyon for years but never wheeled out there.

     

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  7. Thanks Precise1, mine looks likes yours in the picture (a bit cleaner, but not as cool :) )

     

    Is a rebuild more than just the bearings?

    I wont hold you to it, but what would you estimate the cost, including removal?

    (which, btw, I'll definitely do, if it can save a lot)

    Is the Nissan dealer any better or worse than a strictly transmission shop?

     

    How long could one go driving with bad bearings, what could happen, etc?

     

    Thanks for the feedback and glad to be here.

    We love this car and want to keep her going strong.

     

    If you go to a dealership you will pay a premium and honestly we don't rebuild these very often anymore. The precise 1 is correct on what the problem is, the bulletin is to replace the trans case that has a updated fill hole location that is about 1 inch above the original. Find a reputable trans shop that is well established to replace all the bearings and whatever else may be damaged and make sure they reference the bulletin so they at a minimum can put the right amount of manual trans fluid ( GL4) in it

     

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  8. You've never driven in LA before, have you B.? Lol. ;)

    I agree, and in a way disagree. Keep in mind I'm learning as I work on my pathfinder even though I've been at Nissan over 9 years.

    What I found with mine was the rear Springs were sagged really bad. Replaced them with OME and got 1 and 3/4 lift. But had negative caster. Then I replaced all the front suspension bushings with polyurethane and adjusted the torsion bars to level it front to rear. Had way negative camber and caster afterwards. Bought longer uca bolts and some washers to get it aligned where I was happy with the results. Lastly was able to buy some AC uca's used and after installing them went back to all the stock length bolts and reshimed to bring alignment into where I was happy with ( spent a lot of time on our alignment rack). I found the end result in my case being vehicle level front to rear, more down travel in the front, way better ride off the pavement and dropping into holes or sharp bumps(like going over a speed bump to fast ). However I have the luxury of a full shop/dealer at my disposal to play around with setup on mine.

    But generally I 150% agree that going that route for the average guy is time and money that can be better spent on more necessary repairs. Lastly I really like your pathfinder, love that color. Seems like all the ones out here are red or white.

     

     

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  9. btw - what is the recessed , looks like maybe 14mm allen head screw next to the right cam ?

    It was completely covered in RTV that someone had placed there and had old crusty coolant all running from it .

    Is that coolant pressure relief or something ?

    Need to address that leak before reassembly.

     

    Same thing Doc Bill is addressing here , halfway down in the thread - pic included

    I've heard that referred to as a welch plug. Seen a few leaking over the years including mine. They can be really difficult to remove. If you can get it out reseal it with a liquid Teflon sealant. If you can't get it out (forgive me please guys!) Seal it with JB weld.

     

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  10. The only benefit would be down travel. And the suspension will only extend as much as the shock will let it.

    I have AC upper arms with stock length shocks and the bump stops removed. Doesn't fully extend where the arm contacts the frame. Eventually plan on low profile bump stops and longer Rancho shocks front and rear to gain max down travel.

    As it sits the suspension works really well.

     

     

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  11. Just going to throw this out there because I've seen it.

    If you did not get the cam sprocket aligned with the dowl pin on a camshaft, torque it and collapse the pin, the sprocket can go out of "time" and damage the camshaft and even the head. Hope this did not happen!

     

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  12.  

    Yeah, maybe I should've torn it apart sooner. I sure hope that's it, but I wonder what else in this old gal needs replacing(?) I'll sure be glad to get her going again though 8>]

     

     

    thanks

    Dave

    With my pathfinder I've put a good amount of money into it but with where I work and what I do it's still a lot cheaper than a car payment and much more rewarding. Realistically though I'm in the same boat as everyone else and tend to overthink problems with my own vehicle because it's out of my pocket.

    And again it can be extremely difficult to help with problems when you cannot see, listen, and feel what is going on.

    Hope that the distributor is the last thing you have to replace and you can enjoy the pathfinder.

     

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  13. I've been using mobile one 5/30 synthetic since I got mine. Had about 176k, have had no issues with leaks. I figure if mobile one synthetic oil is the recommended oil for many high performance and high line vehicles that it is best long term. However I still stick to a 3000 MI oil change schedule.

     

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  14.  

    No needle rollers, just a bushing in the bottom and a ball bearing at the top. The BB is stuffed. Looks like rebuilt distributors start at $150, which probably isn't bad since I assume it includes a new sensor...

     

    PS--I still don't know if I've found the source of the problem, or just one more worn out part(!) 8>]

     

    Dave

    Ummmmmm, should of checked that thing a long time ago. That optical sensor tell the ecm when to fire (ground) the injectors and works with the coil and transistor. Which is why I kept asking if you pulled it out and checked that the shaft spins freely without resistance. I would probably put a used one in if it checked out ok and was really cheap. It looks like you finally isolated you main issue and soon will be able to enjoy your pathfinder.

     

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