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Posts posted by mechanicalbaron
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Interesting, did they give you a printout of the readings? Can you take a pic of it to look at all the numbers? I'm assuming you have similar emissions testing like here in California.
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There should be a small metal pipe that connects to the hose on the bottom of the egr back pressure transducer. Did you remove it and clean the orifice and blow through it? Pretty common for those to be plugged and that hose to be rotted.
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Bike Lane.
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I've had similar thoughts. Always get hung up with the parking brake. Would love to see a thread on this.I'm thinking of something sort of like what Nissan Nut did, shove the e-brake over/add cup holders and make a new riser for the arm rest/console box, except use the ammo can instead of the rattly plastic bollocks. I'm toying with the idea of making the ammo can removable, buckled down or held in by magnets or something. Might be helpful in an emergency to have road flares/aid/etc in there so I can just grab it and go if needed.
I'll make a thread when I get around to doing something with it. I've got the can already and it'll fit no problem, it's just a matter of making up the rest of the console to go with it.
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What are thinking? Had similar thoughts about a center console using an ammo can.Looked at 50 cal ammo cans on eBay, looked at the spot where my console box used to be, took a few measurements...
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1. The manufacturer has your vehicle towing capacity. Find out what it is.
2. Boat trailers have surge brakes. Electric brakes and water don't mix.
3. Regardless, if you want a 7 pin trailer harness, put one in. You can get an adapter to operate a 4 pinion harness.
4. If you decide to go with a 7 pin harness you will need a brake controller. I like prodigy.
5. Last but not least, utilize all of your resources to determine what will work for you.
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Pop culture.
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Put a new starter in her, the original one finally gave up. Only had about 186k mi. and 26 years on it. Think I'm gonna call Nissan consumer affairs and complain. Maybe I can get reimbursed.
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Snow angel
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Horse trading
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Lazy days.
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New ignition switch and front door lock cylinders with new outer door handles. EBAY parts but all worked very well.
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Just last week saw the same issue on a Versa, the main difference being that with an electronic throttle body it was going into a brake over-ride causing a hesitation. Caught it when I was driving it and noticed that the running lights came on when applying the brakes. Doesn't happen often.Yes it does, figured out the problem it was a faulty bulb. When installed it was bridging the connection, swapped in a new one and solved the problem.
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Truly amazing.
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Big man.
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Sand wash
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When your offroading with some buddies and they say " dude, I can't believe you made it through that!"
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Dream car.
Sorry, had to bypass you Mr. RoguePathy.
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Washed the mud off it, vacuumed her out, lubed the hood latch, removed the turn/headlamp switch and cleaned the contacts, and replaced both headlamp bulbs.
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Looking a little bit into your year model, it appears that there should be a fog light there. Mines different. When in doubt Google it.I see now what I have. this is from ebay:
I guess the PO just destroyed everything, fixed nothing. Was anything mounted to the right half of the housing? The upper area sure looks to have mounting holes.
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Factory fog lights are mounted under the bumper directly below the turn signals. The brackets for them are bolted to the core support.
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The windows are just based off mine when I got it, pulled off the rear door panels and found the regulators locked in the upper position using screws. Best to actually check for power and ground at the motor itself. I have a running light socket and bulb I use on stuff like that to verify power and the ability of the circuit to carry the load.
A three jaw puller should work on the crank pulley, I have a special one at work that uses the threaded holes in the pulley, I'll try to get a pic of that setup tomorrow.
My recommendation on the front end bushings and stuff is mainly due to having to take so much apart just to do one thing, if you are going to do ball joints you may as well do all the bushings. I got a set of polyurethane bushings for about $40 for the upper and lower arms, way cheaper and easier than replacing with rubber ones. Downfall being they are noisy.
With mine is pulled out both of my door lock cylinder and liberally sprayed WD40 into them and worked them with the key. Was able to get them both to work. I'm pretty sure you can get a full lockset from the dealership with both door lock cylinders, ignition cylinder and keys, but that's gonna cost some cash.
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Alignment, a dealership doesn't necessarily need to do it, however alignments are tough on these. I would recommend replacing the upper control arms bushings, lower control arm bushings, radius arm bushings, steering center link and upper and lower ball joints. Likely they are all worn, but inspect them and make sure they are bad before you replace them . If everything is OK in the front end then find a reputable place to do your alignment.thanks, I will definitely be pestering you folks.
who's the expert on the door electronics? any good threads on the front door windows going up and down, but not the back?
Also, the locks dont work at all. Do you need to get to the lock cylinder to tell Nissan what key you need, or can they use the VIN?
we will be doing the timing belt Saturday. What's the best thread on that one? any gotchas?
One more. Is it true that you need to get a front end alignment done at a Nissan dealer?
thanks
Crab
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Another new forum game - 2 words
in Off-Topic
Posted
Snow blind.
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