NovaPath

To describe this as best as I can I will explain the situation in which it happens: Turning left(or right) to get onto the main road, get on it a bit(accelerator 3/4 to fully floored): The steering wheel will be cocked to the right as I am accelerating, then as soon as I release the accelerator the wheel will release back to the left(normal straight position) -OR- The same situation, the wheel will remain cocked to the right until I hit a sufficient sized bump which will then kick the wheel back straight. -OR- I jerk the wheel back and forth real quick and that will sometimes center it again. Occasionally the correction will be accompanied by a "pop" or "clunk" but not always. I thought this was due to my rear trailing arms being totally shot, but it has persisted since I have replaced those. I've checked the rack bushings, and they seem relatively tight. Turning the steering wheel back and forth lightly while parked does not shift the body around at all, just moves the wheels slightly. Ball joints are tight, lower control arm bushings are tight. Having the hubs disconnected seems to make the problem slightly worse then when they are engaged, but the problem is still there. Any ideas? One thing I'm thinking is to check my adjustable camber bolts to ensure they are tight, but I'm not sure how that would affect the position of the steering wheel....Easy enough to do I suppose. Thanks for your help, I was planning on digging into this more before posting but I'm sitting here bored watching the voice with my wife, so figured I might as well post up and see if anyone else had some thoughts.

Makes sense. Is the driveshaft still stock? Any binding or vibrations?

Looking good Cdn. Any plans to move the rear axle rearward?

I'd be very surprised if your sunroof seal was causing this. The sunroof will leak a little bit always, it is what the drains are for. The pathfinder is the one car that I've owned that I havent' had to deal with water leaks on(yet!), but I would check your front sunroof drains, and then check your cowl drains to make sure that everything is flowing freely. A slight tear in a sunroof seal in my experience is not enough to cause water to get inside the cab. Good Luck, water leaks can be infuriating!

George Washington National Forest. Pug Puppy power

yeah...not sure what to say on this one. Can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink....

Did you try what I asked originally???

01 pathfinder: I hear you, It is frustrating when we are trying to help but there is no acknowledgement or comment of the previous suggestions. I think it is foolish to mess with timing on one of these until you at least check the reason the check engine light tells you...best of luck to you I hope you figure it out.

I'm confused, why are you redoing your timing? I apologize I don't have the same engine so I can't tell you for sure but when I rev mine the left front fender lifts, which means the engine is spinning left or ccw at the crank, so when facing the engine from the front it would be cw. Good luck with whatever your up to!

P0505-idle air control malfunction. What RPM does it idle in while in park? If you give it a very slight amount of gas(very slight, you aren't wanting to neutral drop it, try to keep it at 1k or under) while holding your foot firmly on the brake, can you get it to get into gear and then take off? Does the idle go up/down when you turn on or off the a/c compressor or turn the wheel while parked?

18"(inch) seadoo, where do you sit?! Just bustin chops of course

Just wondering how stout these things are, has anyone punctured a tank on one of these trucks?

The lower control arms bend very easily...ask me how I know. I've taken mine in some 4&5 rated trails as well, as long as you don't mind a little bit of body damage they hold up just fine. Where they start to struggle is large rocks, they are too long and don't have the approach angle nor front suspension travel. Sounds like a great trip! You must have been hitting those drop offs HARD to bend 3 wheels

you can also buy them from 4x4parts, not sure how much they mark them up comparatively though as I was unable to locate the part # when I was assembling my lift kit components. Good Luck

Thanks!! I suspected as much but didn't feel like going on exploratory surgery to find some holes....I did not get a diagram...They only included two nuts for the long bolts, It sounds like I may need 4 total? Thanks Again!

where do the two rear mount wholes go? I am installing solo and this thing is effin heavy so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I begin. In looking under the truck it looks like i need to drill holes in the center support but the description says bolt on? Thanks!

Yeah, manual hubs are not recommended for that transfer case for that exact reason. I think it has something to do with needing to turn the wheels for internal lubrication, mine is the manual transfer case so I only read very briefly on it. There is tons of info though if you search for it. Good Luck!

nice work. now fix that oil leak

Forgive me as I'm not sure if the 97 has the "auto" 4wd feature or not. Do you turn a dial or shift the lever? If it is the dial the manual hubs are not recommended due to this issue.

I went with the 2" automotive customizer's lift kit and am pretty happy with it. That being said, my buddy's TJ with a long arm kit is considerably smoother off road than this truck will ever be....you are comparing apples to oranges in regards to vehicles and off road capability/ride quality.

Looks like an awesome trip! Curious to hear how you managed to fix that strut on the side of the road. Could be some useful takeaways if that ever happens to one of us!

Awesome thanks, exactly what I was looking for. I tried to purchase from courtesy parts, and still might, but the process has not been easy....

Subject matter states it all. Nissan dealer wants $14.00 per bolt-crazy. Thanks,

Seems about right I guess if the condition is good. Picked up my 01 LE last year with 135k for 4200. I personally wouldn't worry about the clutch, just budget for it in the future. Look on the bright side, at least you know it hasn't been beaten on or else the clutch would have been long gone...

why not just check the power leads with a multimeter and see if the fan is getting power?