hawairish
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Posts posted by hawairish
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Yes, welding them in is an option. I'm more a bolt-on guy, so the SFDs designs I've done are geared towards ample tool clearance with simple hardware.
I posted a pic of my newest spacers on my other thread. These will be installed next week hopefully. If all goes well (and I have no reason to think it won't), I hope to finally be able to produce some sets for others.
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Well...
Biggest constraint is working space inside the spacer. A 2" tube leaves 1.5" of space (assuming .250"-wall steel), which is about as much that's required for the exposed length of the front subframe bolts and the head of the lower bolt and washer. A similar issue with the motor mount spacers.
Here's a pic of a 2.5" front subframe spacer with .188"-wall steel:
If you stick with .188"-wall, that gap closes by .5"...almost touching. Go to .250"-wall, and the hardware is touching. You could go with flange bolts and ditch the lock and flat washers for a tiny amount of clearance. You could also nip the OE subframe bolts a small amount. But if they're too close, you'll have to use an open-end wrench...and those bolts need torquing to 90+ ft-lbs. Expect a busted hand and/or stripped nuts.
Is it doable? Sure. And there are even a few workarounds I can think of. But...depending on your approach, it may cost just as much money or labor—or more—as a 3"-4" set of spacers. (And btw, when I say "spacers" and "SFD", I'm talking specifically about the spacers used to drop the subframe and not any custom strut spacers like what come with the KrF 4" SFD "lift".)
The SFD install by itself is a very tedious and involved process...it's one of those things you want to do once. So, if you have any plans for more lift, now's the time. Also, it's not necessary to have a 1:1 lift-to-SFD, but the closer, the better. You can do more SFD than lift, you'll just lose a little more ground clearance.
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I see that krypton makes a 4". Haven't looked around but I would only want a 2" SFD to correct the spacer lift. I vaguely remember folks talking of one on a different thread.
Long story short, a 2" subframe spacer has more constraints than a 3"-4" one. But you've got the right idea about correcting the spacer lift.
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So thinking you might end up parting the R50 out then? Sounds like a drivetrain swap would still be a good project.
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No sweat.
One other thing worth mentioning is that if you were to find an LSD from another WD21, it'd have far more breakaway torque than the one in your R50. Of course, this kind of bypasses your plans for the R50.
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The 3rd members should swap, but I think there was a change in the number of housing studs...I think the older used 10 studs, so one hole on the 3rd is left open. But I don't know the MYs.
As for axle width, I'd assume they're different. Check out nissannut.com...he's done all sorts of projects. Specifically:
Fab Projects > Rear Disc Brakes
Bolt on Projects > H233 Swaps
Much of what he types I can't make sense of, but he's got pics. My impression is that it should work (swapping in R50 diff and axle shafts) but you may need to shim/space the axle shafts where they attach to the tubes.
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So you pulled the trigger on the SFD? Hope those spinning bolts get sorted. Also, if there's any tip I can offer, it's to leave the suspension intact when dropping the subframe. Do one (strut spacers or subframe drop), then do the other. Having the suspension still in place helps keep the subframe lined up when lowering it, and helps support other parts.
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That's putting it mildly.
Somewhere on my list of projects is fabbing a bracket/brace to make the winch tube bumper for 1st-gen X/Frontiers from Addicted Off-road a bolt-on solution.
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Yeah, these projects. I'll breathe a sigh of relief tonight when I've got my monster list of parts ordered to move everything forward.
And no rush on anything. I'm not home until next Friday so there's not much I can do with the info yet anyway. Except dream.
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Ha, no worries. A wench bumper could still be pretty cool, though.
If you don't necessarily need the bumper and just want a winch, you could buy a universal winch mount and work that into your solution. There are a couple forum pics of what others have done to add a winch behind their OE bumper/cover. I'll try to find those threads later.
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Ha, yeah, waaaaaaay too much time thinking about it...not getting enough sleep! I'll try to document both processes (LSD and Lokka) to see if I can get more technical information in them.
Would you mind taking measurements and pictures of the 3220-LR? The best observations I could make about it were from the Nissan Nut's website...unfortunately, I usually can't make sense of most of the stuff he writes, but the pictures really say everything (some of the pic links don't work, but the larger pics do exist...just need a little trickery to see them). It'd be nice to get a close-up of the teeth on the drivers.
IIRC, you have machining skills, so you likely have a good idea of useful measurements. I can confirm whether it at least physically fits an open (likely) or LSD (doubtful) 33-spline carrier. Dimensions/drawings of the tooth face would be huge. Wishful thinking: maybe we can arrange a loan so I can test fit it?
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Exactly...without knowing the stack height that actually came in certain LSDs, I can't make the correlations I'd like to.
The FSMs do specify a stack height range per side (19.24mm-20.26mm), as well as wear and warp limits for the individual pieces. The pieces have nominal thicknesses of 1.4mm, 1.5mm (standard), and 1.6mm, with the exception of 6mm spacers that replaced 4 friction plates per side in 03-04 LSDs. Each side had 13 pieces (1-2 springs, 2-6 friction discs, and 5-9 friction plates), except for the ones with spacers (2/2/5 + spacer).
These FSM specs didn't change from 94-04, so there's some degree of standardization there, and both the nominal and actual (sum of pieces) stack heights basically guide any repairs/rebuilds.
I'll spare the theory, but I'm estimating 205 ft-lbs if I match the 5:6 ratio commonly found in the stronger LSDs, and replace friction plates with thicker friction discs.
Funny you ask about the Lock Right. There were actually two of them (3210-LR and 3220-LR). The 3210-LR is for 31-spline only because it includes new side gears; it fits older D21s (pre-94) that have 1-piece 2-pin open carriers. The 3220-LR offered some hope: it re-uses the side gears, making it spline agnostic. However, the 33-spline 2-piece 4-pin carrier it'd need to work in simply never existed (33-spline open carriers are 1-piece 2-pin). My cross-refs suggest that 33-spline side gears would fit the 31-spline open carriers commonly found in WD21s, D21s, and 99-00/01-ish D22s that the 3220-LR was designed for, but the tooth cut on the 33-spline side gears would likely not mesh properly with the drivers (but it is the same tooth count, 16).
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Yep, the rebuild will not only change the disc-to-plate ratio (from 2:9 to 5:6), but also add 1mm to the total clutch stack (which doesn't sound like much, but I'm at the very minimum stack height, and the range is 2mm more).
I'm hoping to quantify the amount of torque when both ratio and thickness are changed, just to understand if the WD21 specs are a reasonable target. Better than nothing, no doubt. But I also would like to know to justify costs. $170 gets me the 5:6 ratio, but $340 gets me the ratio and max thickness. I'm trying to gauge if that basically spools it, but without knowing what the OE stack height was for WD21 (FSM doesn't specify this), it's trial-and-error.
None of the write-ups really talk about that. MY1PATH's was very useful, but the lack of pictures on the Laxman one really kills the technical info that could be inferred.
I posted in the WD21 forum because the LSD spec in question was last used in 95 (well, maybe in HBs, but I didn't check). Think this is better suited for the Garage forum?
I would go with a locker, but it's the 33-spline and I'm not ready an air locker. The front is getting a Lokka, though.
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The WD21s had a breakaway torque of 260-289. I presume this was still streetable...but was it good enough for the trail? I'm rebuilding a LSD to replace the open diff in my R50 and trying to determine a suitable target number. Thoughts?
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Can't take credit for the work, but thought up the design the other night. Resolves issues with tool space and still features a rigid core like my current spacers.
Got additional strut spacers the other day, and just need to order some hardware and new steering shaft piece. I plan to install everything at the end of the month, along with some drivetrain improvements. Will be busy, again.
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Hmm, I still need to return my 180s. Fingers crossed.
I made a list of the hardware I'll need, short of anything for related to the retaining component of all this. This has been on the back burner for me, too...big drivetrain upgrade in progress.
On a side note, I was trying to gauge the amount of rotation that two of the 90s will allow for the front disconnect. Because the link is attached to the strut, it rotates a little as the strut pivots. Doesn't seem like the joints allow nearly enough movement as advertised. Thoughts?
And agreed, those pin types would be way too loose I'm sure.
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Taking a stab at the wiper problem: sounds more like a mechanical problem. Either the nut on the wiper's rotor is loose, or the internal gears on the motor assembly are worn.
I'd start with the checking the nut in the center.
As for the compass, maybe check out the owner's manual for the calibration process. Does the temperature display?
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Yeah, I have no problem putting a ~31" under mine. It just barely clears the back of my hitch.
My problem is that with my lift, the chain is too short and it makes it a little tough to remove the plate. Enter swing-away carrier mod...
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The 3" SFD is finally moving forward...
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Look familiar? http://www.warriorproducts.com/catalog-new/universal-parts/sway-bar-disconnects/
They're what Rocky-Road and AC appear to sell.
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Yep, seen em. Common design. I've seen a few places that sell some exact like that.
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To the point; I like it.
After giving those pics and the FSM another look-over to gauge criticality, I can see where minute adjustments from the tool will be necessary. I was operating under the assumption that if everything is marked properly, it shouldn't take much additional adjustment. Seems I was making an ass out of u and mption.
Plus, if my some chance the 33-spline locker comes alive this year...this tool might see daylight again.
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That said, having the right tool that you wouldn't have to screw around with and risk damaging the adjuster with might be worth the $46.
That's kind of how I'm seeing it, though the ring itself looks to be pretty thick. Guess I'll find out soon enough...picking up some axles today to get the ball rolling on the next projects. Just wanting to see if anyone swears by the tool (or conversely, swears without the tool).
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Yeah I'll get some airbags. I have an air compressor already. I read through the air bag thread. Am just not entirely sure on how to hook it up. What I mean is, should I leave a permanent air hose in the trunk that I simply snap the connector on to? Or do I hook it up to the bags themselves? Or is it all just personal preference? Will do some digging around but it sounds like what I need.
Personal preference. The more common setup I've seen is tee'ing the two together and running hose to some easily accessible point.
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My new 2001 LE 4x4
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Well, you still need to tool inside the front subframe spacers and motor mount spacers. There's no good option for avoiding that. The rear subframe spacers aren't an issue...you can just use longer bolts.
The front subframe bolts are actually an assembly: two 12mm x 150mm bolts affixed to a bracket. It's installed from inside the engine compartment along the wheel wells. Flange nuts sandwich the subframe to the unibody. So, nothing on the front subframe threads into the unibody. Similarly, the motor mounts have the studs integrated into them.
But yes, welding in the lower hardware is viable. Thought about it, but didn't want to go that route...since I don't weld, it's not worth the time/money to have someone else do it. Plus, if the thread fails for any reason, it's a lot of rework. But if you have the means, it'll work.
Again, it's doable. Just requires more effort/thought than a size up.