Mr. Pickles

My aluminum rims a great. More maintenance than chrome as far as keeping the polish, but no worries about rust and they look great. I did manage to crack one on a pothole back in the day, but that was in my lowrider in high school. That did suck though. But you should be fine and hapy with aluminum.

Looks like fun. That's a cool pic blasting through the water from inside the truck. My camera refuses to catch action shots that clear. Good times!

Have a good one!

That's what I was thinking. The guy who showed me this cut in to heat the it from the top and PB Blaster it, and I was thinking why not just replace it while you're already there.

Yep, they're mainly 194's with some smaller ones (can't think of the size), and they just screw in like any normal bulb socket. Don't be afraid, just go for it. On a fun note, I swapped all of mine for blue bulbs that give a bit of a different hue to the cluster. After re-reading your post, do you mean all of the lights stopped at once? If so, you may want to check the fuse for your parking lights if I remember right.

Ditto the switch on the column. A lot of people have had issues here, and often its simply a matter of removing the switch and cleaning/bending the contacts to get a better contact.

Ditto, I just plain removed it and didn't plug it.

I bet you could fix that, and for $10 I'd try here, let alone how much more expensive stuff is down there. Agreed about the BFH, the welder, and a big vise hopefully. I beat somebody down to $15 on a chrome bull bar type I picked up at the community garage sale last weekend, a center brush guard type with light tabs. Like you, I'll be cutting and hacking to make it fit. Good luck!

Has anybody ever tried cutting the sheet metal gently from the top to reach and possibly remove/replace the nut deal inside the body with something more standard in size? Its all covered with carpet, so it may be worth a careful attempt (at least in the rear) as long as you property prep, weld and seal when you're done. Just a thought, cause maybe you could throw a couple dollar standard thread bolt on with a little bit of work.

You're bad!

Where are the cheapies at? I was looking for one a while back just for the he!! of it, but its just for fun so cheap is good.

Duffman, next time just borrow one of the lady's heels and you'll be good to go. At least things have returned to normal though.

You seriously have to wonder about people. Its obvious we can't stop as fast as the moron in the little Civic that just cut in, yet you'll get the bill if you rear end him because of his stupidity. Sorry to hear about your ishty luck. Hope its not too bad.

Ya know, it would be pretty sweet if you could set it up to have to hit the switch, as well as the clutch, to start. A quick anti-theft device. I find the switch handy when working on the truck, and I want to fire it up without climbing in, starting, then getting back out.

Holy isht, Batman! Good job! :o Even with my issues getting the UCA's from Rough Country, I'd still recommend them. Way good price, and although I had issues, they were considerate and helpful. Good luck putting her back together.

Looking good. I just logged on and was like WTF?! for a sec, but it flows fine.

You should be able to swap most anything from the engine and front suspension, but yes the rears are different (coil vs. leaf).

Does this mean he really has become a Pathy God?

Mine are stubborn b@st@rds too. I've soaked them in PB, hit them with a hammer, broke a socket, 3/8-1/2 adapter for my breaker bar, and a 3/8 ratchet with an extension. All cause I was too cheap to buy a 1/2 socket set so far. Haven't tried heat yet though. I think I'm gonna take these bushings, the new UCA's, ball joints and tie rod ends into the mechanic and let them have fun. I'm too busy for this isht!

I spoke with them today, and they're gonna ship the rest of the stuff for $10 total. I wasn't too amused to pay more, but its better than $40 for the kit elsewhere, plus getting the grease fittings, etc. And yes, the arms are drilled for the fittings.

Check the latch on the rear hatch. There should be a plastic sleeve on the bottom catch/loop/hook thing on the floor of the truck, which often goes missing when old. Without this, it allows extra movement in the latch and doesn't pull it tight enough, hence the light flickering. It could also be sloppy from age, who knows... After removing the plastic trim, you can slide the catch thing back some (forward), and possibly take up some slack. Mine wouldn't quite slide far enough back, so I've just wrapped that catch thing in black electical tape to make up for the plastic sleeve, and re-do it every 6 months or so cause I never remember to grab another at the junkyard.

I paid $127 shipped to the Seattle area, but there were some snags. When they shipped them out, they only put the streed portion of the address with no number, so I had to call UPS to track them down and give them the rest. So they finally came in on Friday, so that was 9 business days later. I guess that's just human error though, and could happen with any business. But more annoyingly, there are no bushings included with the arms like there are in the pics. So I'm gonna call on monday to figure that out, or get them locally from Central 4wheel drive who quoted me $40 for the set. In the end it will still be a good deal, just not quite as good if I end up having to buy those bushings separately. Oh, and I got no bolts, washers, zerks, nada. Just the physical arms by themself.

No doubt on the RE prices. I just sold my townhouse last month and made 1/4 of the price I paid after 2 years of ownership, only to buy a house at twice what the people paid in 1998.

Holy freakin big pic, Batman!

I bet you could do it cheaper on your own. I too melted both headlight plugs, and bought some heavy duty ones for like $3.99 each. Add some wire and brain power, and you're good to go.