Mr. Pickles

Did a little playing in the dirt. Sorry to not call out any locals for the fun, but... okay, okay. This is my driveway, and I wanted to have some fun before redoing the lawn and landscaping in the back yard.

I think that green truck is an NPORA member too, or at least one that used to post. From the Phillipines I think, which would probably make him a Terrano guy, but still.

I've heard guys talking about being on a freeway that was about 15 miles away, although that's in "the valley" in S. King County, WA where its really flat and long. Never really tested how far it goes though.

I believe all they add is that hard-to-find one for the rear mounts for the 4 doors.

Good times. I got that as part of a gag "official" looking news story right after the hurricane hit. Something about yet another vacation and a puzzled Shrub (as usual). Maybe he could donate the fish.

I said "nearly impossible" and that would be by most people. You're definately not like most people man. Good job of destruction, by the way!

You mean new bolts for each mount? Cause the PA lift for my 94 had new SAE bolts and nuts all aroung. You're not going to re-use anything.

Ditto what JJ said, wire the relay with the switched /turn on to the relay being a jumper from the back up lights to the relay to energize. By the way, that could also help you, as I've heard of people getting pulled over and questioned about the functionality of extra back-up lights. My understanding is they are fine as long as they can only be turned on while in reverse. Basically, so you're not turning them on to blind tailgaters like I used to do in my 720 truck. :X

Maybe you could hook a beer holder to that thing for the dorm room. You guys give me the itch to pull the old buggy out of storage. I used to race it a bit back in the childhood days. Maybe... maybe...

Um, going anywhere you damn well please perhaps. Or at least a sweet hobby to keep one occupied. Give me that over an F.U. H2 on 24's any day, then park on the H2's hood.

I just installed Superlift's via Rough Country. They're some tough looking units, and much nicer that the stamped steel mess from the factory. The ball joint mounting area is particularly thick. I've also seen the Calminis installed, and man, those things are ridiculously built from appearances alone. I'd bet you couldn't bend or break them no matter how you tried, what your ran over/into, period. Then again, I bet you'd have a nearly impossible mission to kill the Superlifts either, and at probably less than half the price of the Calminis when bought through Rough Country, I don't think its a contest. You can save that money for other toys.

6" of lift vs. 1 or 2" or so of increased tire radius (hub to tread) would= no problems at all.

I just went through everything (I've only installed the upper BJ's so far) and everything has grease fittings except the lower BJ's. I looked all over and didn't see a place of manufacture. The only location given was that the box was printed in Canada. They feel and appear to be quite solid and substantial, even compared to the stock ones that were still in somewhat decent shape when I removed them. Hope that helps. Anyways, even with the shipping involved, when I was thinking about buying them, I compared them with the cheapest of cheap from NAPA's website, and these blew them away for price. Even if they die after 150K miles, I'd be at 300K and ball joints and such would be one of the least things on my mind. :X

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the pre-1990 trucks the only ones with throttle body injection, which was replaced by MPFI?

Got a pic of how you ran your exhaust? I don't really like how it hangs down as it is.

Yep, the bumper lift has been covered in the body lift threads, and I just posted about removing the bottom of the shroud a couple weeks ago. Somebody didn't do their reading. -study- By the way, thanks for the hideous comment, as I too have the gap. But with a hitch, driving lights for back-up lights, and tail pipe all there to sit 3" into limbo if I moved the bumper, I decided to leave it be. Still, good self-exploration on you part.

It burns... its burns...!!!!

I'd quadruple anything said about a 1/2" breaker and socket set. If you're not a mechanic and don't need the spendy good tools like Craftsmen, SnapOn, etc., buy a full 1/2" drive metric socket set and a breaker bar from somewhere like Harbor Freight. I picked up a decent enough set for $20 including an 18" breaker bar, and I had already bought another 24" breaker from them. Its been paid back in spades because of the saved busted knuckes and such. Cheap #2: Go to Home Depot for a cheap cheater bar. I've got a 1" threaded steel pipe as a cheater that I got for like $5. That sucker will put enough leverage to crank anything loose (or break it while trying).

Input to what? Input of an accessory (Ipod, DVD, whatever) to the stereo, input from the stereo to an amp, or ???

The box says Chassis, and the label says MOOG. This is the box from my yet-to-be-installed lower ball joints, and is similar to the uppers and the TRE's. By the way, what is MOOG anyways? I've always wondered- is it a brand name, a style, ???

And on solid ground. By the way, these pics are with 31's.

Here's 3" SL before the BL.

Are you sure that's all you're rubbing?

AT's for sure if you're worried about ice or rain. I've had BFG MT's for over 3 years, and they're great on dry ground, dirt, mud, even loose snow. But they suck pretty bad on the slick stuff. But, they're about to be replaced after about 50K miles and they still have a bit of tread, at least on 2 of the 4, and I'm gonna pull one for a spare when I swap. Since you're in S. Cali where I spend a fair amount of time, I'd say you'd probably be best with an AT. You don't need to worry much about mud really, rain is mostly a non-issue, and they should do just fine on the snow, ice and sand. Good luck and happy choices!

I put them in our Acura, and they're great, much brighter and whiter light. When the Pathy's eBay fake-HID bulbs die, I'll be putting them in her too.