cvdloc

You forgot the lack of clothes, underwear and cape... I'd forget about the flame job and go for some spray paint camo!

Flames flames!!

Hahahahahah, I like how the transmission is part of the hub assembly, very advance

Hahahah oh boy, time to go to the local napa, the hamster over heated and blew a gasket

My thoughts, wtf are they looking at under the hood?

Thanks, yeah it was only at first glace that it looked the same.

I noticed that (body height), I bought the hardbody yesterday. I was looking at the transmission, is that the same as the pathfinder manual? Looks very very fimiliar. The good thing is the gas tank in the pathy is only 18 months old, along with the fuel pump (thanks to the inexperience of Canadian tire auto shop) so i would be tempted to swap. Also yesterday I had the chance to look at both trucks side by side, everything is very fimiliar. Body lines are the same, the engine compartment (besides the obvious v6 to inline 4) mostly the same components in the same spots. Anyways thanks for the reply! I'll upload some pictures when I make a Flickr account or whatever, and show you guys what some a$$hole did to my pathy!

Shows how much I pay attention... Facepalm* my pathy is off the road so I want them gone!!!!!

If your in bc I have rotors for sale, not sure the brand.. But they are new still in plastic, got them for free so I'm willing to sell them cheap! Just saying

Hey guys, so if none of you heard my pathy got smoked in the rear and the guy took off, still runs, frame and gas tank / drive train intacted but claims Called it a write off. I'm looking into hardbodys now because this is a truck I would love to sas it lift it and swap the motor out for a 4bt or the pathfinders v6 now I have a couple questions: -how interchangeable are these parts to one another? Etc same frame? Would be awesome for an easy engine swap! -how hard is it to swap to coils in the rear when I lift it? Maybe copy cat the rear of the pathy? -what issues should I look for? I am looking at an 87 hustler, no rust on frame but 417xxx km on motor! Starts up no issues, runs nice and smooth no leaks at all, steering is a bit loose but not terrible at all, only got it into 2nd gear (only had a parking lot to test drive it in) no rust on body except rear corner of the box got dinged. He isn't asking much for it 1000$ I might pick it up after work The reason why I might go for this is because the frame is in mint condition, only surface rust, no holes, it's a clean canvus for any swap. The pathfinder runs like a champ, rear axle makes loud raddling loud when I let go of the gas? Not sure that that is.. I might start taking it apart looking at how things are, selling for parts etc. maybe use some in the hardbody! Unfortunately my love the pathy is now off the road for good but tons of parts will be up for grabs! Why not make it live threw donations anyways let me know what you guys think! Thanks and have a good day!

If you are looking at a permanent solution, glue it!!

Honestly, you should be fine, where do you plan to put it? Right behind the shifter? Now is it auto or manual (I have taken both trannys out) I'm going to assume its manual, just keep the screws wide (closer to the seats) use pointed ends to since if you go too far you won't dig into your trans.

Lol there you go that would have saved me huge money! But I have some crappy news... Last night while I was camping I had the pathy parked on the road, and some idiot rammed into the back and took off!! The whole rear end is cocked! I know they are going to call it a write off I do have collision, so ill see what they can do, but the 95 project is now down the drain I'm going to keep it, still runs like a champ! Nothing wrong with the drive train, I'm just going to turn it into a bush truck lol Currently in the market for a hardbody now! Looked at one earlier looks and runs well, few if and buts but I am doing my research, frame is mint, no rust, it does have 400+ km on it! Maybe ill do my 4bt swap in that! Owell, sh!t happens

Yeah I have taken them off, did what you did and still won't engage, plus I don't like the idea of them going in and out of gear, especially if your stuck. I am saving the hubs until I absolutely don't need them. In case the manuals go I will have a back up pair. Well I was thinking about upgrading to a v8 but the torque and power I can have with the 4bt is more ideal for me, plus I love diesels lol why not right, cummins powered pathfinder (pathdestroyer). I want to be able to do a 6+ inch lift. I am moving the rear axle back and now thinking about moving the front axle forward aka more lift, I can cut the fenders out and ill be able to get the front driveshaft angle juuuust right. The transmission and tcase will sit farther back (rumour has it about 2") then slapping 37's on there, maybe a small body lift too 1-2" Personally I hate the ifs, you can't really lift them (at lease what I'm going for) I heard you can slap the RR 3" lift with the TM 4" lift (not avalible anymore) but I also heard they are pron to problems. And about the higher clearance, that's only in the front, sure you can make it over a big rock but your rear is straight, it would just hit the rear not your front, correct me if I'm wrong, I'm going under theory here lol. But yet I am still not sure if I want to do the swap to this pathfinder, I might look into a 2 door or a hardbody. But if the timing belt goes or anything major, I'm doing the swap to my 95. If not, well we will see then. Currently I'm doing my research and looking for a delivery van donor! And if your wondering this project is a treat for myself, purely offroading truck (it would be nice to drive it on the road to and from but I doubt it will pas inspection) money isn't an issue

Oh and 260 km on it, standard is getting close to 400 km now

I like that idea with the anti thief device, it isn't a bad idea. I got frustrated especially being on a 9pm - 6am shift, made working on my truck hard, took me 2 weeks to complete. It would be nice to have low gears (yes it's shifted) but I'm doing a 4bt swap in 4 months!! Currently 4wd doesn't work (tested it out and it is the auto hubs) so manual hubs are in the mail, even though along with the 4bt swap will be a solid axle swap, for 136$ I'm not complaining plus I'm going to resell them from 50 to 80$ if I don't reck them lol The auto crossmember is bent back (if I remember correctly) and the standard is straight, about 3-4 inch difference. That was a piss off moment, one of the last things to go on! The reason for my swap (basically put so much money into, about the same as yours, ill drive it until it does!) is Canadian tire bent me over and f'ed me in the ass dry, let me explain: so coming off the highway my car died, like a stall, and would not fire up at all. To called bcaa and they towed it to ct to figure it out. I got a call and it ended up being a short in my fuel pump so they went on about how it's a safety hazard and you shouldn't drive so basically four played me into getting it replaced, they did warn me about the bolts on the gas tank... Even though there is an access hatch in the rear to do the fuel pump! But they only snapped one bolt, yes one bolt, they "had to" replace the whole gas tank basically rammed their dumb high school student who did the works head up my rear end and charged me 500$ for a new gas tank, total cost: just under 1800.. I recommend You never go to ct for anything besides oil and tires period. Btw my tac. Has never worked, I shift at 20 40 60 and 90 lol I have a very small leak at the gasket but not worth it since, well the swap in a couple months, but I have a major leak under my right foot that made a nice sized hole, welding and exhaust puddy somewhat fixed it, still a leak, and some duct tape fixed the hole (temporary I must say) that included the gap in the shifter plate! The reason I am so keen on keeping this pathy and encouraged to do the swap is the amount of rust, spots on the body yes, in the usual spots (bottom corners rear door, back corners, and bubbling about the rear wheels) but the frame.. Someone rubber coated it in the early days! Surface rust just behind the rear wheel but nothing a grinder can't get rid of. I used a jack to test my 4wd a couple weeks ago and scrapped off some of the rubber (about a jack worth), nothing but shinnie metal underneath!! I am glad it's done and over with and I hope not to do it again, but I would if I have too. A guy quoted me 2000 min. In labour to do it, plus the 500 donor truck. I gave me friend tires and the cc plus beer for guidance. But now I know I can beat it up! And so far so stock, it's a champ! Beating lifted jeeps up hills and getting out of the mud, all in 2wd! Can't wait for the manual hubs. Btw I am a satanist! Hail satan! (Not really but I'm a metal head \m/, )

Useless was a bit strong I just got tired of digging out a bunch of dirt all the time

It kept digging in the dirt/mud when offroading, but for most tow outs, those loops are more than efficient. Now don't get me wrong I didn't throw it out, it in the back along with the bolts and my socket set

Damn, you have had a lot of issues and I'm glad to see you busted threw them! I did the swap about a year ago now, I'm curious what you did with the mess of wires that when down to the auto trans (the shifter cable is linked to it) cause I was the idiot who saw all these wires and said Screw it, cutcutcut. Flipping nightmare! Paid a mechanic 70$ to figure it out (ironically I'm an electrician) Other than that it went smoothly, surprisingly. Fly wheel was no issue, clutch install, a pain! All my alarm system wires went in and out threw the hole, so in short, bye bye keyless entry. What did you do with your brake pedel? I ended up taking a sawzall to it. I didn't take the Tcase off of either tranny, regret doing that.. Manual trans has no 4lo. The donor truck came from an ex gf, her timing belt went so I bought it for 500$, took everything I needed plus rear tinted window, gas cover (had to pry my old one open everytime I went to fill up), centre conceal, skid plate, 2 brand new headlights! (Her Xmas present 5 weeks before), cadilac converter! (Gave it to my friend for helping me, they are worth good money), head rest for my rear seats, gave the tires to my friend as well for his Mazda 2200, new front rotors (haven't been installed yet and I will be throwing these up on Craigslist soon) and plus every flipping fuse, relay, extra bolts and nuts I could steel without the thing falling apart! Then scrapped it for 300$ without to old auto trans. 200$ for all those parts! I'm not sure how you will feel about this, I recommend this swap to anyone who is good around cars. But I am going to shoot a couple warnings out there! -don't cut any wires and label before you do so!! -don't scrap the donor before your done (had to make an unnessary trip to the wreckers for a transmission cross member) -do your research before had, read a couple threads if you have too and make notes! -Now of you don't want to do this and or you love your auto trans, install a transmission cooler!! My auto was replaced then 5 months later it went again. -if you never drove a standard before just remember this... The first time I ever drove a standard was the first test drive of my truck with the new trans!! It took about 10 minutes and I wasn't grinding or stalling anymore. I know I kinda went off on my own swap here but from what I have read in the thread you touch based on a lot of good issues. Another thing I did aswell is got rid of that flipping front tow hook! Useless, but I recommend buying a u bolt (or whatever they are called) you have 2 tow points front and rear besides the hook. If I knew at the time I would have bought manual hubs, for mile markers 136$ new (or 250-300$ for warn) its worth it, and currently they are in the mail! Pathfinders are tanks! (Like you have said) but with the auto trans it's like an athlete with a bummed knee! Thanks for reading and I hope this helps anyone who desides to do this swap, plus the tons of other info in the thread! Sincerely; 95 pathfinder with an 94 transmission

I ran the test and everything works fine, i got both output shafts to spin. so its the auto hubs that are the issue. i ended up ordering a set of mile markers and should be here in 2 weeks! i will be sure to make an install thread, couldnt find mile marker installation anywhere, only on the warn brand. they couldnt be much different but still, why not take a couple pictures. i would be interested in reselling these in a couple months, mind aswell get some extra coin for the sas/4bt swap, among other things. next on the list, torsion bar crank up! 2 3/4" lower in the front, just got lazy after my tranny swap so its about time!

Well I did my test.. And when I spun the drive shaft only the driver sides output shaft was spinning not the passengers. Now, I am a noob when it comes to axles, especially this ifs crap, now what could be broken? The issue would have to be closer to the front diff beforeit drops down, now dont laugh but could that be a cv joint? how can i check this? plus how expensive is something like this to fix? if its cheap and would provide me with good experience, i would be tempted but otherwise i might hold off and count down the days until i torch this thing out! thanks guys!!

And I will test your theory too. Mind aswell while the hubs are off!

Hey guys, thanks for the quick reply. i have lifted the truck up and have done those test, I haven't pushed in that sleeve, I just want to be able to isolate the issue, so tonight I am taking the front hubs off, and spin the drive shafts, theoretically the front axles should spin, right? If not, I'm not sure I'll post it here and see what's next. I don't want to mess around with the auto hubs. For 120 I can get a set my manual hubs, easy install and I'm not going to kill myself over the price, even though that ifs is gone in a couple months. If anything is wrong with my theory let me know, otherwise I will post the results!

Hey guys, first post! So let me give you a preview into my 95 pathfinder and the plans for this beast in the near future Had this truck for 2 years now, done a bit of everything to it, auto to standard tranny swap to name one. After this summer I plan to completely remove the drive train and throw in a 4bt, with Dana 44 upfront and 60 in the rear, add a 6" lift, 1-2" body for tire clearance. But that's in a couple months... Now my issue is 4wd doesn't engage.. I figured the hubs are just seized.. So I took them apart. I do have photos, can't figure how to upload them yet.. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary so I cleans them up greased them and threw them back on.. Still no 4wd Would there be an outside issue that I could investigate? Front driveshaft locks when engaged but wheels move freely (drove around the block acouple times and still doesnt) make a note I am doing a sas in 4 months but I am planning to go wheeling every weekend I can until then. I have looked into manual hubs and they cost 120$ and takes 2 weeks to ship. Now I don't want to replace auto hubs with manual then figure out its something else, is there a way I can test this? I have an idea of taking the hubs off until you seethe axle and see if that spins with the front driveshaft. Would that work? But the main question, is it worth it? (4 months with this ifs then I'm torching it out) Thanks guys, I hope to hear back from someone soon!