Quaintbucket

Well, moment of truth. FAILED. My nox went down very very slightly so intKe air leak was not the problem. Off to the garage I go. I'm taking this into Nissan dealership to run tests or an independent mechanic. No codes in the system. I found out they have previous test results online so I looked at that. It was slowly increasing in NOX so I'm thinking the cat has gone bad but taking this to get tested. I have 2 cats and they run at $340 each at my cost..

This weekend was productive. I spent a good amount of time working on the pathfinder and giving it a tune-up + knock sensor relocation. What I did: 1 - Replaced distributor rotor (needed to be replaced. the bit was frayed...) Beck/Arnley - Very easy. I had to crank the car a couple of times to rotate the rotor so I can get the nut off and replace it. Do not turn this by hand or else you'll break soemthing/throw off your timing. 2 - Replaced distributor cap (it was in fairly ok condition but worn down... replaced it!) Beck/Arnley - Very easy. Straight up swapping it. Just remember, the #1 port is facing towards the radiator.3 - Replaced all spark plugs (NGK 5464) This was fairly easy except for #6 which was not visible nor easy to find. I spent a good 10 minutes searching for it by hand so I can throw the spark plug socket on it to take it off and clean it properly. Make sure you find out EXACTLY where it is by hand before you take off the spark plug wire. It will make life a lot easier. Once I found it, it was easy to find it over and over... I did this by loosening the spark plugs (do not remove) a little bit and taking the air compressor and blowing out all the dirts around the spark plugs and the surrounding area. Got it nice and clean. You want to do it to avoid getting dirt in the holes... that's a bad day for anyone. I did not have to put anti-seize grease on the spark plugs. You can use them I used NGK 5464 (Iridium) with a gap of .044. I checked each one of them beforehand to make sure they were exactly that. I removed one spark plug, replaced that one, and put the spark wire plug on them. Make it easier to track. Odd number on the passenger side, Even number on the driver side. Number going up from front of engine block (closest to rad) to back (closest to windshield wipers). I put them in by putting the spark plug in the spark plug socket (very helpful) with an extension and put them in by hand and turning slowly to make sure it's in properly. You do not want to mess up those threads... you will cry. After you can't turn it anymore, you can use the ratchet. I used 1 or 2 fingers to tighten it. You can use a torque wrench and I would probably recommend it. 4 - Replaced spark plug wires (NGK) This is pretty easy. Just remember, odd number on the passenger side, even number on the driver side. Number going up towards the windshield. Make use of harness. I reused the heat shield tape from the old spark plug wire #6 to the new #6 spark plug wire. I was worried because it was so close to the intake manifold. It should be fine without it but why not...?5 - Replaced fuel filter (Mann MF1005) Biggest. Pain. In. The. Ass. It was the original fuel filter at 260,000km. Definitely in a big need for a change. Located above the rear axle of the pathfinder. covered in mud. I strongly recommend jacking it up and put two jack stands under the axles. It will make it easier The FSM Stated that you must do this:Remove the fuse for fuel pump. It is located in the change box near the driver side door. The fuse is #15. It will be the second column from the left. 4th from the top. Pull that fuse out and put it in a safe place. Start the engine and let it stall. Crank it a couple of times. Once or twice should be fine Get a bucket ready because once you remove one of the fuel line, there will still be a little bit of fuel.... Remove clamp around filter and hose clamps Remove filter and replace filter Plug fuse back in. Start car. It will stumble a little bit but will start. Just don't force your engine to crank hard. A couple turn over will do the trick. #6 is easier said than done. (See a trend happening so far???!!!). It's a tight spot and the fuel line is really tight on the fuel filter. It took a fair bit of struggle to remove the line but I got fed up with the second line that I just cut it and put it on the new one. There was enough of a line for me to get away with that but I recommend having an extra fuel line hose on hand just in case if you end up cutting too much or destroying the hose. Dump the fuel out of the filter and watch all the sediments come out of it. Gross.... it was definitely clogging up. I might have to replace the fuel pump but not necessary right now. If you cannot reuse the fuel, you can let it sit in a bucket outside. The fuel will evaporate so no big deal. Do not dump it, obviously. 6 - Replaced knock sensor via relocation. I bought the sensor and the harness from ebay. Worked like a charm. The relocation video is awful because the guy was just not showing the wires properly. I used the following parts instead of what he was using.. so dumb. Heat shrink tubing (to use in place of the connector plastic) Connectors (I cut the outside plastic and pop the inner parts out for connecting the wires) Electrical tape that motha fudge bar up. No more P0325! So cash, brah. I noticed that I had some vibration in my steering wheel at high speed (100km/hr) so I jacked up my front and checked for any play in the wheel. I shooked the wheel back and forth to see if the wheel bearings are ok. They are good. I spun the wheel to listen for any sound, nothing unusual. Checked the wheel to make sure they're not bent... they're ok. It might be my tire sidewalls, alignment (doubt it), balancing, struts, or shocks. The tires will be replaced and balanced and the struts is due for a replacement I believe but I will bring it to NISSAN for the TSB on the driver wheel well to check for rust... I checked it myself and it seems fine but will double check. TODAY IS AIRCARE DAY. I am going right after work and will find out if I pass. If I don't pass... well, damn, I don't know what the hell is up. Hope this post was helpful for you guys. E: Replaced air filter. Forgot that one! Very easy.

Never thought about doing that before. Everything else you got planned sounds good to me. Nice pathy, looks sharp with the plasti dip.

WD-40 is fine for a quick fix but does not do very well in the long run. They attract dirt and grime like it's nobody's business. the grease or silicone lubrication are much better.

So you want the inside diameter and outside diameter and overall length? I won't be doing anything on the suspension until august (possibly if things don't go haywire) but will keep this in mind for you. Not replacing the coil though.

Doesn't matter, check your battery voltage. Then check your starter and distributor.

I would honestly check your battery again to see the voltage. if it's dead or not enough juice, check your alternator. your starter is cranking which tells me it is working at the very least.... don't crank it too much haha... you might burn out the starter motor.

works fine for me. try this link instead http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/ it's under EC.pdf if that does not work: here

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/ec.pdf page 288 for p0340

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2000_Pathfinder/ here.

Did you check for vacuum leaks? That was the biggest contribution to my random misfire problem. After fixing the air intake duct boot to the intake manifold (and replacing it when the part came in), I have not had any misfires since then. Usually an easy and cheap fix. The tough part is finding it. Here's the FSM for your vehicle. It's on page 261 of the file under EC - 255. Got a nice step by step procedure. Did you pull any other codes?

Hey man, I appreciate your kind words and encouragement to spend time with my daughter. I think I need to be clear about what I was talking about before. I do spend a lot of time with my daughter, no worries. She's only 1 year and 4 month old, so we do a lot of walking in the park, going swimming, taking the stroller through the trails, take naps together, etc. on my Fridays and Saturday/Sundays (depending on what day I decide to go to work). I don't think she will care too much for movies and dinner haha. The only time I work on my vehicle is when my wife is home from work and at my parent's with my dad who got 20 years of experience under his belt. We have checked the resistance of the knock sensor harness and it is dead. I already put all the necessary orders in and will be working on it this weekend. My vehicle has NOT done any misfires for a week now. I am positive it has to do with the severe vacuum leak from the cracked duct boot. I did this before I saw your post and I am not terribly concerned with money. I just don't think I need to pay a mechanic for a job that I can do just fine with the help of an experienced mechanic. I have ordered the following parts: Knock Sensor (for relocation) Knock Sensor Harness (for relocation) Spark plugs Spark plug wires Distributor Cap Distributor Rotor Fuel Filter Air Filter PCV valve I am also ordering an O2 sensor just in case but will buy it locally so I can return it if it turns out I do not need it. The cats are absolutely fine as far as my father and I can tell. When I said the timing belt is due for a change... I meant to say for another 20k km and it will be done this August. I will also be replacing the water pump, belt tensioner, and any necessary gasket. I realize that I need to get it done sooner than later, but my first and foremost priority is to get this to pass emission. This is what I am doing first in order of importance to me: 1. Get this to pass AirCare with tune up and new knock sensor. Taking it to the following day after to test it. If anybody got any other recommendations, now is the time to let me know. 2. Replace/Repair suspension components. Vehicle got a slight death rattle going on now and I looked at my bushings and they looked like they've seen better days. This is important for my peace of mind. Control arms - Deciding between a full control arm or just bushings ALL OTHER BUSHINGS Check struts, coils, and cv boots 3. Replace Tires. These tires are old and running low on treads. Sidewalls are showing signs of fatigue. Winter will come soon and I need good tires with healthy treads to get up those hills. I am looking at 30/9.5/r15 on my stock rims otherwise will stick with 235/75/15... 4. Timing belt, water pump, etc. change. 5. Valve Cover gasket + Intake Manifold Gasket + fuel injectors + whatever other parts are in there. I will pull the old knock sensor out and take a look at it... maybe replace it, who knows. 6. Warn locking hubs to extend the life of my new CV joints. Helps that I got a smoking deal at cost for $110 CDN instead of $300 everywhere else. 7. fix my rear bumper. 8. take it to Nissan dealership for the seatbelts lifetime warranty . 9. Any goodies that I feel like getting. My budget is a bit tight but it's there and will pay for all of the stuff I've listed. If I were to get a mechanic to do it for me, it will just be too much and will eliminate everything. Besides, working on my vehicle with my dad gives me a chance to spend more time with him and get to know my pathfinder a lot better. Plus, the experience I will get will also enable me to know my vehicles better and how to do the necessary jobs. I am also taking full advantage of the Nissan FSM at nicoclub to go through the step by step process. I am posting this at work so no valuable daughter/father time was lost.

So I finally got the part and OBD2 scanner, Actel MS300. Plugged in the OBD2 to see how my repair did. No more P0171 for the last 3-4 days! Good news to hear My code pulled up P0300 and P0325 (random misfire and knock sensor respectively) which explains 2-3 days ago... I believe. Cold start is noticeably better. I am going to order the parts for tune up. Distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, pcv, fuel filter, and air filter. I cleaned the air filter w compressed air but that's a temporary fix on a $5 part. Will take it to aircare tomorrow and hope the numbers are significantly better. Was going to do it today but my daughter is not cooperating with her nap... Oh well. Just happy that this might be fixed once and for all. Edit: I also did a 50km drive to go pick up my part. It did have a slight loss of power but no check engine light. I would have thought it was a misfire but didn't feel like it. Might be the TPS but not sure because no code came up... Edit: this is the picture of the broken duct boot before temp repair. If you look, you can see a large crack on the side. There's another one the same size and another one about half the size. I would not be surprised if this caused a huge jump in my nox.

The check engine light going away did not last. Shortly after that post, the check engine came on during my drive and drove just as rough (felt some misfiring) and lots of hesitation under load. Yesterday, I got so fed up with waiting for my part so I grabbed the split duct boot, wrapped it with silicone tape (very handy to have...) then wrapped it with duct tape. Was a little hard to get back on the intake manifold because I wrapped a little too tight. Hooked everything back up and fired it up. Check engine light was on still (I disconnected the battery as I had to remove some electrical wiring) thought that was weird. Ignored it and drove around. Rode a little rough but not as bad. This morning, drove it to my parents to drop off my kid. Ride was a lot better. Hesitation was still there but it wasn't as severe. I might have a vacuum leak elsewhere on the vehicle that I need to find. Any ideas? I'm thinking of spraying carb cleaner around to see if the engine chokes in places I sprayed in. My hearing isn't so hot so I can't really listen for sounds. Aaaah. Can't wait to get this fixed once and for all so I can smog it and get back to my regular repairs and driving.

Swapped out an alternator (twice) about a month ago when it crapped itself out. Replaced alternator belt (twice) since it was cracking so preventative measure! Did it twice because first alternator belt they gave me was the wrong size. Had to go back and get the right now. 1st alternator was DOA. Had to wait for 2 hours for a new alternator from another location... Last weekend, did an inspection on my pathy to hunt down P0171 (failed smog with high NOX... double legal limit). Found a vaccuum leak in the duct boot to the intake manifold. Ordered a new part (they wanted $120, local... got one for $30) since no junker had one on hand... popular problem apparently. Temporarily fixed with duct tape. Cleaned MAF (w/ MAF cleaner) and EGR and EGR port into intake manifold just in case. The duct tape wasn't working out because it was running so rough and misfiring so I grabbed silicone tape that I had lying around, wrapped the @!*% out of that, duct tape to protect and put it back on. Runs a lot better now. No misfires but having some issues. Check engine light was on for a while till this morning when I started it up. No check engine light. Seems to be ok but definitely having hesistation on accelerating. Tomorrow my part should come in and I can replace it properly. Then I can carry forward with proper diagnosis. Oh, I snapped the bolt that was holding one of the ground wire from the O2 wiring on top of the intake manifold. Slapped forehand, removed harness for spark plug wire and used the spot for the ground wire. Seems fine for now... Oy. Now I have to find out how to remove a bolt with no way to weld a nut on or anything because it's about 1/8" in the hole. Will probably have to find a left hand drill bit and center it. That's what I get for accidentally overtorquing. Kick my rear bumper because it's barely hanging there. Will probably fix it with zipties.

you sure your alternator isn't going/gone?

Hey Leo, thanks for getting back to me on that. If that's the case, I will be floored if I can throw 30/9.5r15 on my rims even though it's pushing the maximum the rims can carry because the rims really grow on me. http://www.originalwheels.com/nissan-wheels/images/nissan-pathfinder-wheels-62343.jpg are these what you're rolling with?

i'm confused. i'm currently running 235/75/15 on my pathfinder and i have thought about going larger. These are the LE wheels 6.5 wide. I don't know the backspace. would i be able to throw on 265/70/15 on them?

Well, I got a few new problems popping up now. Flashing check engine light, hesitation in accelerating (RPM), and having a tough time going up the hills. Might be my spark plugs, distr. rotor and cap (they didn't look so hot), and spark wires. I'm ordering those on rockauto soon since locals here are asking for $$$$ instead of $$¢¢. Feels like a misfire. Still waiting for a OBDII Scanner + new duct boot to come in the mail this friday and will work on it this weekend to see what the heck is going on. Weird enough, I put a full tank of gas in my pathfinder and the check engine light went away and it ran slightly better but not that much more. SIGH.

Well, I finally got myself to get the time to look at the pathfinder to solve the problem after my vacation. The duct boot pipe to the intake manifold from the air filter cabin was cracked pretty badly underneath (hidden from view). 2 large cracks. It's temporarily fixed with duct tape and I'm ordering one from Amazon since nobody is carrying one. I thought about going to the wrecker but figured I don't want to waste too much time. Ordering a new OBDII scanner as well.

Makes sense. Thank you!

even with locking hubs?

Looks sick.

260k km. so 161,000miles

Glad to hear you figured out how to use it but I wouldn't use it on pavement unless I'm absolutely stuck. Even when I'm offroading, I'm always driving in 2WD until I get stuck then 4HI is what I use to get out, pop it back into 2WD and take a different line unless I absolutely cannot get through... then I use 4HI to get through... 4LO is my "oh poop, i think I got stuck in 4HI..." I've driven up in mountains with snow and loose gravel in 2WD.