RustFlames

Not sure why the end pic didn’t work this app is so buggy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rebuilt and powdercoated all the drum brake hardware, a lot of prep work, it’s pretty I just hope it all works when I put the handbrake haha Took me awhile to remember how it all went back together, need to order the longer parking brake cable for the other side still, the old one cracked open in a couple spots and siezed the cable up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the ram cylinders for the rear latch because I’m nuts lol. Still saving for a engine rebuild, new manual transmission, until then I will be searching for any metal I haven’t coated in some manner. My next project will involve ceramic coatings of piston tops and possibly cylinder heads and most likely entire exhaust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the ram cylinders for the rear latch because I’m nuts lol. Still saving for a engine rebuild, new manual transmission, until then I will be searching for any metal I haven’t coated in some manner. My next project will involve ceramic coatings of piston tops and possibly cylinder heads and most likely entire exhaust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t like seeing the corrosion on that metal ring inside the fan, bead blasted it, polished up to 3000 grit and then gold plated it, also I powder coated the fan clutch in a metallic blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t like seeing the corrosion on that metal ring inside the fan, bead blasted it, polished up to 3000 grit and then gold plated it, also I powder coated the fan clutch in a metallic blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those clips usually break off on one side and the rubber falls out, or is torn out. If you got some gasket sealer around I think even the high temp stuff would work on holding onto the rubber, just an idea i’m going to attempt on mine since interior and especially exterior rubber trim costs almost as much as what most people pay for entire vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love the angles you got of pic 4 and 5 looks like a fun time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious what is the weight on one of those legos, they look heavy, probally never heard of one cracking before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the grill emblem, The 25 year old black paint is all chipped off, will probally tape off the gold and give it a nice deep black. I think I make gold plate the cylinder locks, and was thinking of the the steel part of the rear lift gate piston rams things as well, maybe even the seat belt buckles and any other metal I haven’t managed to powder coat yet, like my brake line connections, trying not to get carried away and make the Pathy to “ricer” looking haha may be too late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the grill emblem, The 25 year old black paint is all chipped off, will probally tape off the gold and give it a nice deep black. I think I make gold plate the cylinder locks, and was thinking of the the steel part of the rear lift gate piston rams things as well, maybe even the seat belt buckles and any other metal I haven’t managed to powder coat yet, like my brake line connections, trying not to get carried away and make the Pathy to “ricer” looking haha may be too late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the grill emblem, The 25 year old black paint is all chipped off, will probally tape off the gold and give it a nice deep black. I think I make gold plate the cylinder locks, and was thinking of the the steel part of the rear lift gate piston rams things as well, maybe even the seat belt buckles and any other metal I haven’t managed to powder coat yet, like my brake line connections, trying not to get carried away and make the Pathy to “ricer” looking haha may be too late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold Plated the grill emblem, The 25 year old black paint is all chipped off, will probally tape off the gold and give it a nice deep black. I think I will gold plate the cylinder locks, and was thinking of the the steel part of the rear lift gate piston rams things as well, maybe even the seat belt buckles and any other metal I haven’t managed to powder coat yet, like my brake line connections, trying not to get carried away and make the Pathy too “ricer” looking haha may be too late. Sorry for the quadruple post I think my tapatalk glitched out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tore off all the old plastic conduit split loom from the main engine harness, depinned all the connectors polished up the tips and put some di-lectric grease on, used 3/8” and 1/2 “ braided loom. here’s a before and after Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

was unable to replace my backing plates so I bead blasted them as best I could and threw on some gloss black powdercoat I also did the rear axle hubs, taping off carefully where the bearing and seals sit, just getting them pressed in and mounting them when I get the new seals and bearings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got my diff back from the shop all new bearings and races, also the speed sleeve was worn. I installed most of it today just working on my old backing plates, since they are impossible to find, plus I can never justify the shipping. Lots of patience and looking back in my photos. I also re loomed the speedo cable with some braided stuff. Next project is doing the braided loom to the entire engine harness, lots of connections and fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

finally got the axle coated, I marred up the flange when I was separating the diff, polished it up with some memory cloth still waiting to have the new bearings and races installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best option is to get it bead blasted and have it powdercoated, I went with a semi gloss sandtex black powder, It’s similar to rock guard with texture in it, last longer and look better than spray can paint Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I got pacesetters last year, yes they are half the price of doug thorleys not being ceramic coated however there are a couple things you can do to mitigate the rusting and failure of those beautiful pipes, there’s a high heat paint called Por-20 that you can brush on , and eastwood makes a product that’s specifically for coating the inside pipes and other exhaust pieces like your y-pipe. Comes in a spray can with a long hose that’s perforated at the end so you get get coverage. I went a couple steps further with my pacesetters and gave them exhaust wrap and then sprayed on a high temp silicone spray to further protect the wrap, wrapping your headers will void the warranty but I think with the Por-20 on first you should get more longitivity. When they come shipped they are sprayed with a cheap thin layer of black gloss paint that immediately burns off as soon as you install them. Cut all that crap heat shielding out of there, I used a dremel and just grinded off the bolt heads. Take your time loosening those undersized 8mm exhaust studs. Spray them down with weasel piss every day for a few days before attempting to wrench them out, I have never had any fun drilling and tapping out busted exhaust studs. A good method its to crack them tighten it back up wrench it some more tighten back up taking small bites before spinning the stud all the way out. Yes it’s tedious but trust me the alternative is much more time consuming I don’t have my motor rebuilt yet however it’s been claimed headers will give you a 10% hp improvement being one of the cheapest upgrades you can do, Very Clean looking Pathfinder btw, somehow the paint has stood the test of time, I have the pin striping on mine as well I think it compliments the aggressive wheel well design of the body, I’m sorry if I hijacked your wheel thread lol, if it’s any consolation I have a cheap chrome exhaust tip on mine and it isn’t classy lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was the little liscence plate bracket caked in rust? I just pulled my bumper all apart and most of the screws and bolts twisted off, I have to replace 3/4 of them, be nice to see how yours turned out. I had to do some bondo as well, along where the caps are bolted on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replaced the u-joints in my rear driveshaft, and of course I powdercoated while I had it out, taping off the holes where the caps sit was tricky to say the least but took my time and It came out beautiful, the rust behind the yoke the enters the transmission was pretty bad and hard to reach in the sandblast cabinet, I used the old caps to pound in the new ones, RIP 5/8” socket( used it to pound out the old caps) The part numbers, got from napa for the front driveshaft are UJ393 The the rear driveshaft is UJ446 The color is called peeka blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Powdercoated my brake lines, didn’t have a flare wrench, used vice grips to crack them then used a 10mm to finnish them off, the one on the passenger side of the frame threaded into that strange like brass spacer, ( possibly a check valve) needed to be vice wrenched out the whole way, I believe Ie coated every piece of fastener in the engine bay area now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well I’m Just waiting on getting my Lsd back with new bearing and races, I managed to get everything apart except for removing the race from the pinion gear. Also waiting on getting back my rear axle from the bead blasters. I’ve had no luck from the dealerships or online finding a new set of backing plates. Hate to put all new hardware together just to slap it on some swiss cheese mounts. Pathfinders in the pick n pull yards are usually more rotted out than what I already have. Local stealership tells me it’s a discontinued item, keeping the dust out of my drum brakes is all I want, anyone ever have any luck finding a suitable replacement? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk