RustFlames

finally got around to restoring my front wheels, smoothed out all the pitting and welds on the backsides. Still got to pull off my passenger side spindle and clean up so it looks like the drivers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went crazy on the blue underneath, but i’ve always stuck to making everything black on the body.that was until I got to building my recovery system ( still don’t have an aftermarket grill or a winch) I scored an old pulley made by tiayo. And did some goldplating, all the hardware on the jack and tow hooks. there’s a ceramic clearcoat over the gold to protect it. Can’t wait to mount it all, going to keep the pulley next to the tire jack in the back trunk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got my transfer case back from the rebuilder. I tried to reassemble myself and realized it’s sometimes better to take it to someone with experience. It’s actually originally from an 89 datsun but is compatible with my 95. I just need a 5 speed manual transmission so I’ve been searching the salvage yards. The first gens are getting scarce around here though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not exactly to my Pathy, but for my Pathy. Always wanted to mount a Highlift Jack horizontally along my tire carrier. Found a siezed up one hiding in the rafters and decided to clean it up, it’s not finnished but I wanted to show where i’m at with its first first accessory. If anyone has a suggestion for mounting on that 2” bar, pipe in! I’m thinking of just fabricating my own. damn i wish i had a cnc machine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The revised manifold stud Nissan part number is 14065-V5004 If your patient as hell and say a little prayer, hit it with several sessions of penetrating oil, wire brush it between so the oil can really get in there, when you manage to crack the studs spin them back tight and gradually you will be able to spin more threads out, you get too rammy and the will snap, if the nut spins off and the stud is stuck in the headers put 2 nuts in and torque then together. good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I redid my inner and outter bearings on mine years ago and ended up cross threading the threaded washer behind the hub on the spindle. the threads have cutouts on 2 sides where the other brass and nickel plated washers seat, I pulled one out of a junkyard and ceramic coated all the hardware, and powdercoated the rest. One thing i suggest is to note the orientation of the spacers, torque your spindle nut to spec, on the back of the knuckle theres thread holes you can shoot penetrating lube into to help with dissasembly. Another thing I haven’t seen mention it’s the needle bearing at the back of the knuckle, Im not sure what tool you can use to remove it without destroying it, but installing it would be easy, if the bearings aren’t pitted or oblong I would just leave it. it centrilizes your Cv axle when 4wd is engaged In your hub. Slap some grease in there and send it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sanded down my crankshaft journals from 600-3000k then gave a metal polish, ceramic coated the paddles. Once I get some bearings. I’ll put the oil shedding ceramic on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve always wondered if someone has ever tried putting a heim joint on that twisty dog bone, then out of plane twisting, bump steer damage is kept to a minimum, as long as it doesn’t cause any clearance issues Im going to attempt to build one this year. The shipping for a grassroots is as much as the part. those ball joints were pressed in, I was surprised to see some sort of teflon coating inside where it seats, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sanded down my intake and gave it a polish, I didn’t get it perfect by any means but i’m happy enough with it. I spent extra time around all the lettering. If anyone has tips on to to best smooth out alluminum in the tightest of crevices im all ears, did it mostly by hand with plastic scrapers with varying grits of sandpaper, finnished with a white emery buff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha well I tore the engine apart 2 years ago, and carefully catalogued every bolt and part. I should just make a build thread when I finally have it running, without Npora I would never had made it this far. I’m getting close! just have to finnish the upper plenum. I painted it years ago but I wanted to get at the vacuum manifold underneath it. I will be stripping it and redoing it. Just finnished the fuel railing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Applied a oil shedding coating to the inside of the block, I blended out casting splatter and ejection marks. Eliminated any high spots. Just need some new bearings now. I’ve read that guys using chromoly piston rings required a 600grit fine hone. I tried giving them a 45 degree scratch deglazing with stones but wasn’t convinced I achieved a true cross hatch.

Finally finnished coating the cylinder heads, 3 types of ceramic coatings on them, transfer grey on the externals, sheds heat 40% better than bare metal, piston coat which deflects heat substantially rated up to 2000 farenheit was applied to combustion chambers and exhaust ports,micro slick dry lubricant ceramic was applied to the head valley for oil drainage, also lowers the parasitic losss.prevent carbon buildup, still have to do the runners in transfer grey, the heads were also ported. Did inside the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Was thinking about doing a slight polish on the runners, Will be putting the transfer grey on outside. May even coat the bottom inside of the block in the microslick if I get motivated enough. Cleaning these parts can take a phenomenal amount of time. So these coatings are properly applied. Degreasing , outgassing, sandblasting. When this VG30e is built it should run smooth Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the T case cleaned up, it splits into 3 pieces,Powdercoated in Peeka Blue, Ceramic coated the hardware in armor black, Im doing something a little different with the skid plate it’s not finnished yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are some brackets that bolt to the block, one houses the starter, another mounts to the alternator, the 2 pieces on top of the engine mounts, blended out all the nasty spots, sandblasted and Powdercoated, the hardware has been stripped of whatever nickel plating was left and a ceramic coating applied. Also did the transmission support and some pulleys oh and a power steering rod. You know me by now guys paint it blue and call it new! The blending of welds and casting splatter on those cast metal pieces was painful, hard work pays off!

Anyone from around Red Deer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahah yes guys I mangled it. 8 flathead screwdrivers wedged in there didn’t do it any justice. I suggest if you gentlemen are to attempt this disassembly is to knock the pulley itself with a block of wood so that both the clutch plate and pulley come off together, saving you from warpage. i was going to throw it in a vice and try to squeeze it more flat, i’m just procrastinating, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it’s literally a bushing pressed into a outer race, apologies I didn’t not get the part number off it, I just cleaned it off and reinserted it, I will note though when you remove the clutch from the housing there are 3 shims inside the neck to be aware of I almost dropped them on the floor without noticing. take note of how the compressor sits in those metal gaskets as well before you pull it out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tore apart most of the housing while waiting for the new bearing to arrive anyone that has seen any of my posts knows I have to make it blue lol The squealing bearing needed replacing I ordered a NSK 35BD219 AC Compressor Clutch Bearing I didn’t feel any desire to dismantle the compressor itself. I am curious to see it’s insides but not enough to worry about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I completely agree with adamzan, I did mine without a press just a ball peen hammer and if you give the inside of the ears where the bearing cap seats a light emery cloth scrub the new parts will go in easy, it took me a little while how to figure out how to completely dismantle the front driveshaft to clean all the old grease out of the slip yoke, i only needed to do that for the powdercoating since i had it all apart I polished the shaft with the splines and put in new grease and it slides a lot smoother. good luck and don’t drop the roller bearings on the floor when reinstalling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s what my girlfriend said about this steering collum bracket with a viking compass and nordic protection runes that gets covered by the dash. Winter in Canada is cold what else to do but powdercoat every thing in sight? For the record I had a leak in an old windshield and that piece must of had water dripping on it awhile because it was encased in rust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i had the pry tools in the right position just kept going around until it slipped out, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so I want to replace the bearing in this unit and I’ve removed the 10mm nut over the pulley, but the clutch cover does not seem to want to pop up It almost looks like a lock washer underneath but i’m thinking it’s part of the inner diameter of the top plate, perhaps it’s seized down in the recess and lube and heat will release of, anyone ever disassemble one of these? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey thanks guys, yes well I had to put my other wheels on hold for now since it’s -40 C* Out in the shop. I started working on a different wheel, the flywheel, I wasnt happy with the appearance of it so I coated the inside cast iron part and the outer lip, then just started at 80 grit approach with the emery paper up to 3k grit, then polished with green and white emery, using a dremel then metal polished, Gives a nice mirror reflection, not bad for a 26 year old part. The other side I left alone except for the inner diameter around the flange Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the old spare tire dismounted, bead blasted the barrel and the backside left the chrome intact Applied a base coat of signal white, put down a powdercoat of glowbee clear, laid down the template then sprayed the rest of the backside with ink black, peeled off the decal then finally baked on a gloss clear over everything, now i’m polishing the chrome up, only 4 rims to go The entire inside of the rim is somewhat illuminated from the glow, it’s pretty sexy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So in my eternal quest to powdercoat every piece of metal I can tear off. I always assumed the heat sheild under the body ( 2 pieces) were riveted on, I pulled the carpets and underneath were a bunch of zinc coated 10mm nuts! I recently acquired a vinyl cutter so I’ve been playing with designs. The square piece is the CPU cover from under the passenger seat. The coating is a base of Superchrome, Peeka Blue over that, and finally a Shattered Glass clearcoat which gives it a nice lustre... Of course if the sun is shining a lustre over my heat shield I’ve probally rolled the vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk