AndyC

Yeah I'm on crapatalk... Hadn't used the edit function before. Went back to add one letter and suddenly, punctuation exploded! I guess that's what I get for proof reading.

Boy, don't hit the edit button unless you want your punctuation messed up!

Ha!I had an 1984 240 DL, peacock blue, that was a bad ass, comfortable, but obscenely slow ride. Loved that car. <br /><br />No setup is perfect, I would take my wife's wrx with blizzaks skiing any day over the pathy. But it will pass anything in the road but a gas station. <br /> If u were looking for a cheap vehicle, that got respectable gas mileage, capability, and easy to work on- Suby GL-wagon. Even had a transfer case. Here in Wa they still comand a premium though!

http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm

Yep, leave a fingers gap between the front droop snubber and the bump stop. This will give you decent riffle quality. As HB said above they will settle. But 3in lift springs in the rear will leave quite a bit of rake with the front end (1-1.5in+) in my experience. Go ahead and crank the t-bars (keep track of the rotations so they stay equal) until you have the desired gap. Drive around until everything is settled, adjust, get alignment, drive!

You bet! Cv's are such a PIA that it's worth doing once, right!

They are an easy fix, but seeing how dirt is the enemy of a cv, I would just use it as a bandaid until I could do a proper cleaning and rebuild.

Split boot... Those belong in your trail repair kit, don't think I would want to run them for an extended period of time. Besides it is impossible to really clean and inspect the axle on the vehicle.

On a 16" wheel you'd be looking at a 255/85R16. I've had great luck with that in a BFG MT. One thing, the tire absolutely no floatation. It will cut through a lot of mud or snow, but it's not staying on top of anything!

I'm going to go against the crowd here. I would say replace the boots. Get a set of thermoplastic boots from Rockford. The only thing that takes a long time is degreasing your current axles. Other than that it only takes maybe 2-3 hours to do the whole rebuild tops. You will end up with a strong OE cv with very flexible boots for about $150-200 less than replacements.

From experience on a 3.3 (which probably sounded better than a 3.0L) it sounds like a popcorn machine on steroids, not in a good way! And zero low end torque.

$1500? You can replace the engine and tranny (make sure you get a cooler) reasonably on these rigs. What you need to look for is rust. Check the frame behind the passenger seat. Get in there with a hammer and anything that doesn't sound solid, inspect. Ask about the timing belt, look over the suspension components, ball joints, check the cv's for rips. If you can lift the front end and check the tires for play. Whatever you can to get some bargaining chips.

The reservoir shocks really do shine in high speed situations. I like the idea and think it would look the tits for sure. Too bad you couldnt fit a set of hydraulic bumpstops in there, that would be quite the setup!

He is SASed with a front locker. Why were the hubs locked on the trailer? If only one hub is locked its going to piss the locker off as it wants to have both axles spinning at the same rate. Was it exhibiting the problem going straight or while turning?

Who does twisties in a pathy?!

Put it somewhat closer to stock.

I ran 255/85/16's on my xterra for years (BFGmt) great off road and little penalty on road, got 33x10.50s on the 92 now, pizza cutters are the way to go.

Gone muddying lately? A little mud on the inside of the wheel can cause violent shakes.

X3 on some sliders, but my biggest bit of advice is to find an experienced local club. Good, patient spotters and folks with lots of extraction knowledge are worth more than any bolt on parts. Oh yeah, take lots of pictures, they help you and the rest get through the non-wheeling months.

Door dings? Hah! Want to throw the wet slip and slide in the back? Do it! Pile it to the roof with my tools and saws, NP. The thing works, kids like dancing on the hood, do that on a new truck!

Most certainly. You can also check the ujoints for play by twisting the driveline while in gear.

My 2c, repair what you've got. At least in my experience the Nissan cv's are much stouter than aftermarket.

This may be a pain in the ass solution, but maybe swap the shafts side to side and see if the problem follows. Could be the new shaft was assembled to tightly and is binding at that angle. It's a good 2 hrs of work, but it would narrow down your problem.

Are you going for looks or off road function? I've got the AC 3in kit, rear flexes great, the front has a lot of rake to it to keep the cv's happy. I hate to say it, but I would personally go the Mr. 510 route and run 33x10.50s keep the truck near stock height, low profile front UCA bump stops, super soft rear springs and shocks. That's my next plan...