CALPATHY

Then it would not make sense to have a knock sensor, but I could be wrong.

I wouldn't ignore it, I've read in the past that with the code the ignition will be retarded because the ecu thinks it is bad gas. I did the mod on top in the back of the engine in the, and got the 0325 code once after changing the plugs, must have jiggled the wire enough not to make contact. Anyway, in an emergency when I got the first 0325 I did the resistor trick in order to pass smog, then when I had time I did the top of the engine mod. If all else fails you could do the resistor trick like I did, if you search you should be able to find the value of the resistor - I don't remember it now it was a while back.

Same here, I get 20-21 mpg on highway (best was 22 once) on my 97 manual 4wd, 16-17 mixed, but only after I put free wheeling hubs on. Prior to free wheeling hubs best I got was 19 mpg highway.

My gauge shows a little less temperature than yours, but on OBD it always runs 190-196F when warm.

Not on a 97', maybe on later models.

You can either splice in a resistor (I forgot the value for the resistor, I am sure you could google it) that will make the central unit think the knock sensor is OK, but it is not recommended. You can also do what I did which is to change the location of the sensor with a lot easier access: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/7890-3-3l-knock-sensor-relocation.html http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/knock-sensor-relocation-how-41704/

My 97 only flashes when it locks, no interior lights on when it unlocks and no horn in either case.

I should mention I have a manual transmission, so I assume I should get slightly better mileage than with an automatic.

That is a lot more than I got. Before the Warn hubs my best highway mpg was 18, after the Warn hubs once I got 21 but mostly it is 19 1/2 - 20 1/2 unless there is a strong head wind in which case it can be a lot less.

I ended getting the Broview V8 LEDs (fan cooled, but I don't expect to go into mud) for my 97. http://www.amazon.com/BROVIEW-Headlight-Arc-Beam-Headlamp-Headlights/dp/B01BF6EFN0?ie=UTF8&keywords=broview%209004%20led&qid=1465281223&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 Much brighter than stock, including the high beam. Happy with the purchase, but they did not have to lock rings, originals would not fit over the wide body, so I had to modify them. I haven't driven enough at night yet to see if I get any high beams from opposing traffic.

I am glad that I found your post, thank you! I was ready to take door apart, read your post and tried spraying some Boeshield T-9 into small holes; didn't take very much and the handle grabbed hold and opened the door. Apparantly nothing was broken or disconnected, as in your case. This is on a 97' Pathy SE.

Thanks for all the input. I guess I'll just leave it as is, after all, as another poster said, it is a truck. I just wish, if it had to be that it would be a battle scar, instead.

Unfortunately, in People's Republic of California you can only shoot them if they are inside your house. They were kids, anyway; I sort of blame the parents more than the kids,they are the ones that let little ones run amock. Of course, even if I did find out who they were, the parents would probably think that they were little angels and in no possible way they could have done that.

My Pathy has a cave in on the hood where some kids climbed onto it. Rather than having it fixed I was thinking about one of the VIS carbon fiber hoods for around $500, which would probably be less than fixing the original. Has anyone tried one of these or any thoughts on the subject?

It took me a while to find one with a stick and got it at a good price because everybody that called the seller wanted automatic. Did have to compromise on the color, green is not my favorite.

Before Warn hubs I was getting 18 - 19 miles/gallon highway miles on my 97' SE. After installing Warn hubs I get 19 - 20.5/gallon highway miles. Driving around town is about the same or slightly better.

On my '97 Pathy the studs were long enough so I didn't bother changing them out. Two years later they are still fine.

I bought my 97' Pathy with app. 121,000 miles on it. Previous owner did all maintence at recommended scheduled intervals with recommended lubricants. I changed to synthetic engine, manual transmission and rear end lubricants with no leaks or burning. The only negative was that it cost a lot more.

Thank you for the update! I guess I'd rather take the better gas mileage for now.

Any updates on this?

I gained 1 mpg on the highway after installing free wheeling hubs.

I went synthetic at 121,000 miles and had no problems with leaks.

Various cans, i. e. brake fluid.

So is that Aussie dollars or US? Not that there is a significant difference anymore, but $399 US is kind of steep.

I assume there was a rebuilt on the engine and there is probably no paperwork on who did the job and what was done. Unless you can get the paperwork and it passes smog or you want a project car, I would stay away as well as mentioned above.