BBB

where can this identifying number be found? I have an old Garmin I'd like to do this with.

How do you ground the 3rd prong on the extension cord in the AC circuit? In your vehicle, ground is same as negative since the negative battery cable attaches to chassis. In an AC system ground is earth. Would you run a cable to a spike to drive into the ground? I see the inverter has a 3prong outlet. Just wondering how the AC side is grounded.

Fixed a hole in the carpet. Before: I already removed the vinyl heelpad, which was cracked, and vacuumed the carpet. I took some carpet padding from under the back seat to stuff in the hole. Glue, lots of it. This stuff, good stuff After:

then there is always Mike Rotch.

here's a couple pics of the "Spill Master"

I bought a 2-cup console thing from oreilly and it fit right in between the front of the stock console and the shifter boot. It's not same color plastic but it does the job.

washed it

I realize it's been over 3 months since my last oil change. An injury to my clutch foot has left me unable to drive the BlueBomber for the last 6 weeks. I did an oil change yesterday and here are a few observations. I've been pleased with the performance of the G-Oil I put in back in July. It quieted my noisy valve train and ,based on what came out the crankcase, did a good job cleaning the engine internals. I know, Iknow, these are purely subjective observations with no scientific data to back it up but I said I'd post up with an update so there you have it.

10 months. Got it in January this year with 320,000 on the odo and no service history. It's my daily driver. Hope to watch it roll past 500,000

Funny you should ask. I started early this morning hoping to finish today by this afternoon. As soon as I got the top timing cover off I realized that wasn't going to happen. I ordered a kit assuming round tooth sprockets and it turns out I have square tooth sprockets. Also, after getting hands on the water pump I detected a little play in the shaft and the weep holes showed signs of leakage. So, I continued to remove parts, made a trip to the parts store for correct TB kit and WP, and prep for tomorrow. Installed the Tstat. Replaced the bypass hose. The bypass hose was a real bugger bear to get off, ending up cutting it in pieces. Putting the new replacement on was no picnic either. Hopefully I'll get everything back together tomorrow.

FedEx delivered my Thanksgiving weekend project today. Timing belt, tensioner, thermostat, strut rod bushings. I'm thankful for everyone who has posted how-to's. It will make my project that much easier. Thanks!!

I just did this to mine. A co-worker put the board under the scope and soldered every connection . A couple were cracked so the soldering took care of that. Then checked all the components except th IC. Overkill for sure but I work for an electronics company so they had the scope and all. But I don't use company tools for personal stuff in case my boss reads this.?

Drained the mineral GL4 I put in a couple months ago and replaced with Redline MT90. Wasn't happy with the store brand GL4.

This also happened to me. Headlights with no dash lights, markers, or taillamps even though the brake lights and turn signals worked. Turns out the switch was defect even though I just put a new one in January. Like Nunya sez, "it happens".

replaced trans mount. the old one wasn't broken but I figured with 326,000 miles on the truck it would be a good idea to replace anyway. turned out to be a fairly easy task. also replaced back glass lift struts.

Yes, but was unsure about the center bore and offset since it seems most have put them on 4wd which I understand is a different hub size than 2wd

I was wondering if these wheels from a late model Titan will fit my 93 2wd pathfinder. They are 18". Anybody know the answer?

drained and refilled the rear diff. I didnt get any maint records when i bought it but PO must have taken care of this truck because both the trans oil and diff oil came out honey colored and minimal sludge stuck to the magnets

I took the cover off below the front bumper in order to mount my old chebby horns in place of the nissan oem horn(meep,meep). Not gonna happen today. Man, not much room to spare behind the bumper. I can get the old ones out. Not sure how to fit the chevy horns in there. How did you guys do it?

I threw away my receipt. DOH!

Did an oil change today and decided to go with a new product (new to me). G-Oil full synthetic 5w30. I saw the 2-Guys Garage show where they did a special on G-Oil and decided to give it a try. I'll post follow-up as I put some mileage on the motor with this oil. I'm impressed by this being made in the USA by an American company. All other company claims aside, I'm interested in how this oil holds up and how well it lubricates the engine, namely my noisy valve train. I was using 5w30 dino, no particular brand loyalty. Current mileage on odo is 326,xxx with a new WIX filter.

Went to the jy and bought a few parts and pieces. Horn from a 1970's chevy truck and Nissan fog lights with glass lens. Can't wait to change out the horn. Goodbye 'meep', hello 'GET-OUT-A-MY-WAY!!!'. On the way home did a little off-roading near the east fork of the Trinity river. Got home and changed the oil.

Drained and refilled my transmission. My experience was like most I've read on here. The fill plug wouldn't budge. I hammered, heated, repeat. Finally the sucker busted loose. Refilled with the required 5.1L of GL-4. Good for 100,000 more miles. Much quieter now, didn't realize the transmission was making noise before.

4 new speakers to replace the originals. Now I can turn up my music louder than the ticking sound coming from my engine.

I recovered the trim panels on the headliner. Here’s the problem, headliner trim with falling vinyl. I went to a local fabric store looking for a vinyl that would match the original. No luck. So I settled for a color and texture that pretty closely matched the dash. I removed the trim panels by carefully pulling them off and managed to break some of the plastic anyway. I repaired the broken plastic panel with an MEK (MethylEthylKetone) based adhesive made for plastics. After stripping the old vinyl off, what is left on the panel is the old glue and remains of foam backing from the original vinyl. The plastic panels need to be free of old glue and dirt before re-covering them. I tried different solvents for cleaning the panels without softening the plastic. Purple Power worked best for me. After the plastic panels were clean and dry I placed them on the new vinyl and cut the vinyl larger than the panel. Following the directions on the can of spray adhesive, I sprayed both the plastic panel and the back of the vinyl. I used 3M #74 'Foam Fast'. The glue is really sticky and sticks to itself instantly. I found this out the hard way (FAIL). This is why I cut the vinyl larger than what was needed to fit the panel; it’s easier to position the vinyl on the panel without having to worry about exactly matching the edges. I used a razor blade to trim vinyl to about 1” overlapping the edge of the panel. Flip the panel over, spray the edge of the back side of the panel with glue and fold vinyl over the edge. I popped the panels back into place. Job done. Now, what to do about that dirty headliner?