rwd5021

Good luck, looks like you've got everything planned out pretty well.

Now go test it on some trails and let us know how it goes.

That's pretty neat, simpler than I imagined I guess. I don't know how to weld yet, so I'd have to pay someone to do that, but I'm sure it would still be cheaper than buying new coils. Thanks for the pics!

Looks good! Thanks for the info, I've never heard of people modifying the struts like that. It sounds like a good alternative to buying new coils for a suspension lift. Do you by chance have a pic of the strut assembly after the modification?

Mmm, fire. Thanks for the helpful info!

Put the front sway bar back on. Then I noticed I'm missing 2 of the bolts for my driver side auto hub, $11.71 for the pair from the dealer and I have to wait til Wednesday or Thursday for them to get here. At least it stopped raining for now..

With at least some good tires and maybe an Old Man Emu lift, your r50 should be just fine for some beach driving and moderate trail use. I've been nothing but amazed at the capabilities of my "car50". I still haven't needed to engage 4lo on it either, through quite a bit of desert driving, nothing very extreme tho. I have used 4lo just for climbing over some sandy hills for fun. There's this one hill I like a lot; in 2wd I have to approach at 5-10 mph and in 4lo I barely have to tap the gas to keep it from stalling and it crawls right up. Hope this helps... Welcome, and enjoy your new Pathy!

That sounds like a lot of work to trade for a pair of axles, I'd say go for it. And yes, please get us pics of the pathy on 44's.

Put new shocks on the 92 and then tested it out in my yard a bit, feels much better now.

Looks good! How long did it take to install?

Finally got the 2nd bolt off the left rear lower control arm of the r50. The bushing was pretty much gone.

Sold it

Great, thanks. I'll check for those tomorrow when I get supplies.

The bolt was somewhat siezed to the bracket so it wouldn't move, at first. Banging on it didn't help at all, so I put my jack under the breaker bar handle and broke that free, only to see the bushing sleeve start spinning with it. Part of the bushing spins with it and some stays still. I started trying destructive methods yesterday, repeatedly banging it with a hammer and then the sawzall. I got through the bolt once, but the one blade I had was dull before I could finish cutting the head side of the bolt, so I had to stop. Then I got stuck at work late today, so no progress, but I'll be getting new bolts and sawzall blades on Friday so I can finish this weekend. Should I get any special drill bit to go through the bolt? I don't have a grinder, but just grinding the ends off and getting new bolts won't solve the problem because I need the bushing sleeve, and no bolt in it. And I'm trying to avoid buying bushings or control arms, because I'm cheap. If I can't drill out the bolt correctly, new arms will be my last resort. But for now I guess I'll plan on 1 finish cutting the head off the bolt 2 wiggle the control arm out of the bracket 3 drill/scrape out as much bushing rubber as possible 4 place bushing sleeve in vise 5 drill out the bolt

I decided to try replacing the bushings on the rear control arms of my r50 with polyurethane that goes in a caulk gun. I soaked all the bolts with pblaster for a couple days. Started with the pass. side lower, that wasn't too bad. I cleaned what I could and filled in the gap, easy. Put that back on and start to remove the driver side lower, and it's obvious that's the side causing the death wobble. The front isn't too bad and I got it off, but the rear bushing is completely blown. The bolt is siezed to the bushing sleeve. I got the nut off but the bolt still won't come out. At first it wouldn't even spin with a breaker bar. So I'm buying another couple metal blades for my sawzall today to get the control arm off the truck, but the bolt will still be stuck in the bushing sleeve. Any ideas on how to remove it? My dad just gave me a drill, would that be any help? Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Well mine is a 98 so hopefully they just swap over, the only power tool I have yet is a sawzall. Thanks for the links, I will read through it later when I get home from work.

Hmm, ok. I tried searching but didn't find anything on it, I guess I'll try again.

Just like the title says, is it possible to switch the drive flanges on an r50 for auto locking hubs from a wd21? Anybody tried yet? I have warn hubs on the r50 now, but want to switch them to my wd21. I know that'll work fine but thought maybe I can throw the autos on the r50 instead of the drive flanges so the cv's aren't spinning for no reason. Everything should fit I think... The warns can switch back and forth so I don't see why the stock autos wouldn't be as well.

14 miles / 20 Minutes each way

Adjusted my clutch freeplay, now it's slipping out of gear.

I also decided to check what the passenger side exhaust manifold looked like, there's been a very loud leak there since I got the truck. So I get the heat shield off, breaking 2 of the bolt heads in the process, and out dropped half of the top rear manifold stud. Hopefully that was rattling around making most of the noise I was hearing. Off to do some searching!

Hahahaha ya that is pretty bad. After work today I'll be bleeding my clutch system, changing break pads that I've had in the back seat for a month, changing the oil and cleaning the air filter. Hooray for daylight savings time!

Im pretty sure the auto hubs are supposed to unlock after reversing 3 feet, if not they aren't working correctly.

4 wheel drive in reverse is good too

I think he covered it pretty well.