rwd5021

I'm not positive but I think you're talking about the inner tie rod ends. If so, yes they can be replaced, it should help your steering too if it's loose or wobbly at all. Edit: Just looked under my truck and saw that I was forgetting about the ones built into the centerlink. Overlander is right, if it's those, you'll have to replace your whole centerlink. I'd suggest a hooha centerlink if you plan on doing a lot of offroading.

Put seafoam in through the PCV valve. I was very afraid of putting liquid in a vacuum line but I just took it slow and everything turned out just fine.

Right in the center of that pic there's a vacuum line leading into the PCV valve. Remove the clip, pull the line off the PCV valve and attach a clear hose to the valve. Turn truck on. Using the clear hose as a vacuum, very slowly put 1/3 of a can seafoam into your truck. This is exactly what I did, I used a clear hose so I could watch how much liquid was going in and make sure not to hydrolock the engine. I need to drive some more to be sure I'm not just imagining things, but it seemed to run much better on my way to work.

Ummm, correct me if I'm wrong but that doesn't look like any pathfinder I've ever seen..

Left front: lots of keys, left rear: vehicle keys, right front: money clip & change, right rear: cell phone. And my knife's on my belt.

Thanks, it is definitely safer now, but I noticed it still feels a bit wobbly when first accelerating and when I let off the gas, I guess bushings are next.

I replaced the random unknown rear coils and bent panhard rod on the r50 and now the axle is no longer shifted to the passenger side, woohoo. And it actually feels safe to drive now. I also fixed the threading on one of the lugs for a lug nut (not sure what to call that) so I can put on some wheel spacers to allow my good tires to clear the struts.

Well, it's not even a you pull it, they did it for me. I'm sure there are a lot of theives that go there, I wish I didn't seem like one tho.. But luckily, I went back this morning and there was someone else behind the counter. I paid $20 each instead of 40, got the springs and panhard installed this afternoon and voila, no more axle shifted to the passenger side. It rides so much nicer now, should be good til I have money to lift it.

I had not thought of that but tis a great idea, thanks. I may just get these jy ones for now cause I need this thing back on the road ASAP. This was my first time actually buying anything from there, I think he could smell the noob on me.

$40 each for just the rear springs. I was kinda thinking that too, but its the only place around here that seems to have r50's. The guy at the front kinda seemed like a douche maybe it'll be someone different tomorrow.

So I finally got a chance to go to the jy today for parts for the r50 and I paid $40 plus tax for a panhard rod, which seemed like a lot to me, but I need it so whatever.. Granted, it's not a "u pull it", I had to ride shotgun in some junk car around the lot trying to spot pathfinders and then point out the part for him to remove it. They also quoted me $40 a piece for the rear coils. Is that too much? They desperately need to be replaced, but that's half the price of brand new ones from AC. I haven't found a panhard rod for sale anywhere else so I just paid what he asked, but I can't decide if I should get the coils there too or put that money towards new ones from AC. Is $40 each too much for junkjard springs?

Today I ran the ipod cord to the cd deck under the carpet to inside my center console and hid my ipod in there so no theives get tempted to try and steal it.

Well I get what you're sayin, the truck isn't gonna need that much damage to be "totalled", but if you're paying extra $ every month to insure those upgrades the (new) total value of your vehicle will be higher, therefore harder for the insurance company to just say it's not worth fixing.

Well I'd say that's better than 1500. They wanna give you as little as possible, so why not try and get a bit more instead of letting them screw you? You're forgetting that if the truck isn't totalled they replace all the parts that got messed up. Sentimental value means nothing to an insurance company. If you inform them of upgrades and their value, that would be accounted for in the total value of your vehicle. I'd assume that most companies would charge you a little more each month but also would replace those upgrades as long as all repairs = less than the (new) total value.

Yikes, x2 on the uninsured motorist coverage. I assume most people who don't know how to drive very well also don't have insurance, at least around here.. That's a bad combination and an easy way for you to lose everything just cause someone else sucks. If you want the insurance company to replace your aftermarket parts, I'm pretty sure they'll wanna know what everything is worth before you ever get in an accident. Then in a possible total loss situation yours will be worth more than just an average pathy of the same year and harder for them to just say it's totaled. I used to have a 1976 Monte Carlo in mint condition, all original. In 2010 I was in a head on collision with a girl who had no insurance, no license and no working brain cells either, cause she started to cross and then stopped in the middle of an intersection for me to hit her. Anyways, since there were no upgrades to the car it carried the same value to them as any beat up 76 Monte Carlo and wasn't worth it in their eyes to fix. Luckily I did have uninsured motorist coverage so insurance kept $1000 of the total, I got to keep my car(which needs lots of body work now) and I bought my first pathy with the rest of the check.

I paid $2500 for a 98 le 4x4 w/ salvage title at about 145k miles and $1600 for my 92 XE 4x4 which needed several parts replaced at 126k miles, both within the last year and a half. Before that I had a 2wd 95 king cab I got in mint condition for $2300

Those are different words here in new mexico. And they sound different too.

Wow, that is quite reasonable. Hmmmm.....

How much was "reasonable"?

Lol. Imagine a wd21 pathy with a 4.2l turbodiesel, that would be fun.. but I'd still wanna sas it before doing anything that needs that much power, and the patrol already has a solid front axle.... Sooo I guess I'd still stick with the patrol.

A much bigger one than you could fit in the pathy too.

Ya of course not, but pathy or patrol?

So, I was just wondering what everybody else thinks of the Nissan Patrol compared to our pathfinders? I would really love a turbo diesel pathy, but I was thinking that if I was going through the trouble of getting that imported it might be better to just bring a Patrol haha. Not that I'm planning on doin it or anything, this is all purely hypothetical. So, if money wasn't an issue, and you wanted to have/build an all around, very capable offroad rig for as many environments as possible, which would you choose? Any Pathfinder vs. any Patrol. Personally, I think I'd go with a Patrol (GR I think but still not sure on that). sorry.... We could share npora tho haha

Exactly what I needed to know, thanks everyone for all the replies!