ltsnotme

So did anyone ever measure the size of the rear shock nuts? Going to change out the shocks this weekend and wanted to get new nuts ahead of time.

Oh, yeah, then it probably has a "low pressure sensor that automatically activates compressor if pressure drops" below 5 or 10 psi.

America's Tire representative told me what they use is a combination of patching and plugging. Basically a patch with a plug on it that is inserted from the inside, which is what they had on display in the waiting room. It's mostly meant for round punctures though, not tears like mine, as the plug is round. Either way, if it's larger than 1/4", they're not supposed to repair it. It's been just over two years, so I guess it would've expired either way. I've just read through their road hazard claim initiation procedure though, and it's got so much red tape that I think I would've just purchased a new tire on my own anyway, rather than deal with that.

If your compressor is controlled by a pressure switch, yeah.

No idea what I ran over, but this ended up in my tire: Yeah, America's Tire is where I went (after another shop said no). They obviously said they couldn't fix it either, so I ordered a new tire through them. I don't think a warranty would cover something like this though, would it? I originally bought these from TireRack. But anyway, America's Tire people were pretty helpful, even installed two sets of open-ended lug nuts (because they weren't "comfortable" putting back the 1/4" spacers I had in the front) and didn't charge me for them. Thanks everyone, I'll try to find someone to repair this.

Does anybody think this tire's repairable? For a spare?

Doubt it. Exhaust leak doesn't tick, and it doesn't go away when you're in neutral or park.. Sounds more like a valves/timing related issue.

I can see that spot just looking down between the grill and the radiator support: It's none of my business really, but I would recommend using an enclosure for any electrical parts placed outside of the cabin.

Hm, probably not a good idea to have all those contacts out in the open. Even if rain doesn't get in there, how are you going to cover them up when you have to wash the engine?

^^^Yeah, if you have 4WD, make sure you don't accidentally turn it on, or you'll do a lot of damage to the transfer case.

Correction: you might be pre-wired with a compass/temperature harness behind the glove box. I wasn't, so I got a harness from a junkyard and ran it from the main junction. Either way, here's a how-to; my write-up is there on page 2: http://forums.nicoclub.com/2004-pathfinder-overhead-console-upgrade-t543809.html

There should already be a harness running from where the temperature sensor mounts (in front of the radiator) to the main SMJ harness (behind the fuse block in the driver's footwell). You'll just have to run two wires from the main junction, along the a-pillar, to the compass/temperature panel, plus 12V. And you'll need that temperature sensor. Or at least that's how it was in my '96.

And even if it does blow, it's not really that big of a deal. I drove with a cracked exhaust manifold for about 3 years before I finally got around to fixing it. Even passed all the smog checks along the way.

I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first. Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.

Just don't drive past my house:)

Yeah, same for us. I put SE-size tires on my XE, and they rub on the subframe.

Not sure about the relationship between tire sizes and XE/SE/LE designations in post-face-lift pathfinders, but pre-face-lift pathfinders had 235/70/15 on XE's and LE's and 265/70/15 on SE's. The axle gear ratio is stamped inside the engine bay on the passenger side of the firewall (either HG43 or HG46).

Check your axle gear ratio. XE's and LE's came with 4.363, and SE's had 3.636, since they came with bigger tires.

The resistance of the temp sensor varies with the temperature, so you can't replace it with a simple resistor and still get proper voltages at the ECM. From the description of the system in the above section of the service manual, it seems that if you were to install a low-value resistor to simulate EGR flow, ECM would detect a malfunction under conditions that call for EGR to be off. If you were to install a high-value resistor to simulate the absence of EGR flow, ECM would still detect a malfunction under conditions that call for EGR to be on.

Hm, I assumed since the odometer looked mechanical, that it was all mechanical, and that in '97 they switched to electronic odometer/speedometer.

My '96 is still mechanical. Isn't yours?

In my non-Bose system, the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers: Probably something similar in your case. It's in the EL section of the service manual.

Were the bearings replaced with the struts? I had a squeak that turned out to be due to a bad bearing.

Well, that's kind of normal in 2wd for tires to slip from a stop on wet roads or leaves. Probably even more so in RWD cars, since there's no engine weight on the rear wheels. Giving it less gas is the way to go.

Yeah, pretty much just the 12 bolts, assuming you're able to lower the differential enough without unbolting the driveaxles. Definitely shouldn't take as long as 5 hours. Can you actually see that those bushings are shot though? Because to me, it sounds more like an issue with the driveaxles.