TugboatTony

shi++y since day 1, after the EGR delete, even shi++ier.

I just went with the rebuilt ones as the guy didnt explain that 35 bucks was for the cleaning only!!! 10 more for the test and a three day wait. Really appreciate your input though mate.

Just finished puttin all rebuilts in, lubed them up with oil for pressing them in, flashed it up...........ran like a bag o's**t, wouldnt even idle. Pissed off and full of hate i ripped everything back off again, noticed the plenum gasket was wet and reeked of fuel on two cylinders. Pulled the injectors and noticed i had ripped two of the o-rings, replaced the orings and used white lithium grease, they went in easier than pulling them out, now it runs perfect!! I highly recommend using that stuff for re-installing these finicky little PITAs. Now FINALLY I can get on putting my SL in. Bring on the snow!!!!!

I didn't look into the warranty on either of 'em yet but just like you said it's the turn around time I'm worried about. The cleaning outfit said 2 days but I've just been called out for a two week barge tow and we're supposed to be expecting snow sometime next week. I'm also worried about paying to get all 6 cleaned to find out 1 or more is/are pooched and have to buy new ones anyways. I was thinking about going with the new(rebuilt) ones as they're in stock so if it does snow, my wife can still get around, also this way i can put them in tonight/tomorrow and still have a couple days to conquer any 'snags' i hit putting it back together before i leave. Warranties and wait time time aside, would it worth waiting on the originals getting cleaned or would rebuilt ones be a safe bet?

I've taken the upper plenum off of my VG30E as I noticed rodent chew marks exposing the wire on my #6 injector wires (of course it's THAT one). Not to mention its running rich even before my EGR delete. I've pulled all of the injectors out and have hit a bit of a 'between a rock and a hard place' kinda situation. I live in a fair sized town and have found only one place that will do the sonic clean and balance test but it costs $35.00 a peice, but when i called my buddy at the parts store whom gives me a james bond discount quoted me $38.00 a peice for rebuilt ones............should I get them cleaned or just go with the rebuilt ones? Anyone had any nightmares with choosing rebuilt injectors? Thanx fellas.

mine's power but the gear in the motor was stripped so i pulled the relay and can now adjust to any height manually. maybe try finding a power antenna?

brand new, even re-tested it this morning after the 'heated oxygen sensor code' flashed but it tested out fine and the code hasnt come back.

Fuel pressure is perfect, ran around for a day with the tester zap strapped to the wiper. It doesnt even drop when its bogging out

I have, I've just swapped the ECM as well but to no avail. I'm not getting any codes and It's become a serious bug hunt. It's running very very rich and the fuel i'm going through is intense. Not to mention it bogs out badly under load intermittently. The only thing I'm going to try now is to order this resistor and hopefully it changes the issue. I noticed in the dist. cap (being brand new) the contacts are already getting buggered up. Could this be because there's 12 V running to the coil even at an idle therefore creating too much heat?

Yet another nagging issue with my truck....I'm still getting a gnarley hesitation under load and it burns your eyes to stand near the tail pipe its running so rich and after testing and replacing everything and I mean EVERYTHING on this thing except for the paint job, I've noticed the resistor for the coil is completely frapped. When i look on the FSM it shows the resitor and condenser being one unit but with mine thats not the case, they're seperate. With this, the only one I can find new is in Saskatchewan and the shipping costs as much as the part itself (which isnt cheap). The parts prick (he was a real dink so pardom my french)at the dealer even asked "is it the brown one or the black one?" i replied it was the brown and all I received in return was an "oooooohhh ouch, the brown one". Anywho, would it be recommended i buy the exact one or could I use a combined unit out of a different year? And/or would this cause my problems? I'm completely stumped everyone so I apologize for yet another answer hunt.

Its on driver side fuel rail in front of the firewall.

Its on driver side fuel rail in front of the firewall.

Yeah i fihured out whichj one it was by unplugging it and checking the guage. I'm gonna download the FSM tomorrow. Thanx again for your help

awesome, i'll check it with the vacuum hose off. thanx for the tip!!

I haven't checked my coolant temp sensor as it seems to be working. On the guage the needle is maybe a quarter inch above the 'c' line, is that the normal needle position? and would the coolant temp sensor cause it to bog down as hard as it is?

That sounds a lot like whats happening to me, it seems to stall out around the same place heading to and from work, I'm going to drive to work with the pressure tester zap strapped to my wiper and watch it on my way to work tonite and see what happens. Thanx for the input!

I'm having a helluva time with my 95' SE. I've changed everything in the ignition system, checked it all twice. good compression in all holes, all filters have been replaced, (the fuel filter twice) new O2 sensor, new coil, cleaned and tested all connections, cleaned and tested the MAF and the TPS. The distributor and crank sensor are fine, and the timing is perfect, all of the injectors are working and code 55 on the ECU after numerous checks........yet its still BADLY hesitating under load. I can rev the piss out of it in park or neutral and it wont miss a beat, yet driving it and touch the pedal once its warm and it'll bog right down 'til it nearly stalls. I've just done a fuel pressure test on it and it runs between 30 and 35 psi but it'll start to bog out under load and drops to nearly 20 psi. I realize this is a fuel pressure issue but is it the pump or something to do with the ECU telling it to 'chill out' on the fuel draw because of an external problem?

mine drove me nuts too, it just came down to replacing the tach head itself. Now to fgure out why my speedo reads 10 kms too fast all the time.

I'm going through the exact same problem right now........I've changed EVERYTHING including the O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF new plugs, wires, cap, & rotor, air and fuel filter. I've checked all the plugs (no cracks) they seem to be burning just fine. Ran the codes and all I'm getting is a code 55. It acts up intermittently all the time. Sometimes it runs great the whole drive to work, then I leave and it sputters, misfires and acts up as soon as I try to accelerate. Did you find the route of the problem? I'd love to know!! Thanx mate.

I've just finished doing the exhaust on my '95 SE. I drilled, ez-outted and replaced the typical broken manifold studs and if that wasnt a pain in the a** enough. I replaced the entire exhaust with 'Walker' pre bent pipe only to find out the O2 sensor bung from the factory is the wrong size. I had to grind it off and weld in the proper size. (the parts store had the bung alone). Just wanted to throw this out there if you decide to go this route as well. Anthony

I was wondering about the fuel pump, it does have a pretty loud 'hum' to it so could that mean a dirty sock? or is the hum pretty standard in pathfinders?I've filled it with premium fuel and filled it with a bottle of seafoam fuel treatment. I even took the new filter off and can blow through it pretty easily. The truck sat for a bit before i got it so maybe it'll take a bit to get the crappy gas and/or water out of the system. I will check the MAF sensor though. Appreciate the input mate!