barthel

After reading Wheelman's thread about his MSD install, I was pretty confident I could handle the job. I'm using an MSD6A box, a Blaster SS coil and the tach adapter. I've installed the box, hooked it up to the power supply and was ready to remove the coil and wire in the SS coil. Suddenly I'm not sure about the wiring situation. BTW, I have an '88 SE V6 Auto trans. Wheelman noted to cut the blue and black wires coming from the amplifier(?), attaching them to the white and red wires on the MSD box, then reattach the black and orange wires from the MSD to the blue and black wires going back into the coil. Well, the first problem is I'm not exactly sure what the amplifier is. Is it the little black box attached to the coil bracket? Next, if I'm not going to use the stock coil, do i need to leave the amplifier in line? Latly, my coil wire colors are different. Coming from what I assume is the amplifier I have a black and a green wire. Feeding what I assume is the amplifier is a blue w/Orange tracer, black w/white tracer, black w/purple tracer and a small white wire. :help: Thanks.

I did exactly what Simon suggested. Bought a set of NEW Jeep Grand Cherokee coils ($47), a set of Rough Country UCA's ($169 shipped) and a set of Pro Comp ES9000 shocks set for a 2" lift ($159 WITH as steering stabilizer). So for under $400 and a bit of sweat, it seemed worth it to me.

Does that apply to the front as well? My front bar is broken and if I don't have to replace it, that would be cool.

What year Maxima did you use to get the alty?

Silly question, anyone ever changed that filter in the AIV box?

Point well taken on the plugs, thanks guys. Any takers on the t-bars?

Hey All, Well I've finally started getting all of my parts in for my build and I am majorly stoked!!! My bone stock 88 will not be bone stock much longer. Because of that, I have a couple of dumbass questions. #1 I ordered my uca's and am getting ready to do the front end. Is there a particular order in which I should do it (i.e: t-bars, uca's, tires, or the other way around) or does it matter. If I'm going to crank the t-bars for lift, do I need to re-index them first? #2 I'm putting in an MSD6 ignition with a Blaster SS coil and Taylor wires. Any opinions on lugs for that kind of set up? I've been reading the threads about Iridium vs. Platinum vs. V-power but can't really draw a great conclusion, so i wanted to find out what's worked best for you guys (and gals) And not to sound like I'm kissing too much butt, but you have all helped me a lot. I had no clue when I first thought about doing this, and now at least feel like I know enough to be dangerous. =) Thanks

Stanley Hook and Pick sect from Wal-Mart. It's about 8 bucks and they work awesome.

Rough Country rules! $164 delivered.

I got a similar deal from 4Wheel Parts. 4 ES9000's plus an ECS2000 steering stabilizer for $159 with the boots. You have to buy the bracket for the stabilizer but I already had one that would work!

I just wanted to thank you guys for all your excellent input. I know it's kind of tedious answering the same questions over and over, so i appreciate the effort, you've helped a lot.

K, hate to open up an old wouldn but........ I'm getting ready to lift and redo my suspension and was wondering about shocks. I've read everything about sizing and what not, but I was just curious about choices. Currently I'm looking at; Rancho RS5000's Pro Comp ES3000's Pro Comp ES9000's Superlift's (No part #) Any opinions on one over the other? Thanks in advance

Thanks for the info Pave! I'm kinda new to all this crap and I know just enough to be seriously dangerous.

K, So I have one more stupid question, then I'll try to quit being a dumbass. If my choices are 15X8 with a 4" BS or a 4.75" BS which one is liable to cause me less problems?

10-4!!! I appreciate the heads up.

Sweet Ride MWS. Dumb question for you though. Is there an advantage going o the 8" wheel as opposed to the 7?

MWS Mahalo plenny for the info. If I go to a 15X8 wheel do I have to worry about the backspacing?

Thanks 88. Any ideas on the UCA's? All of the aftermarket one's I've found say they're for a 2 to 3" lift. Can I use the lift style UCA's (like the the ones A/C sells) if I'm just going to crank up the t-bars in the front? If you haven't already figured it out, I'm fairly new to this whole suspension thing.

OK, I know this has been probably covered about a hundred times already, but afte reading ALL the posts about it I've decided to ask the Pathy Guru's for some guidance. I've decided to build up my 88 SE V6 Auto. I've gone back and forth about whether or not to lift the suspension or not. Right now it's at stock ride height running 31X10.50X15 on stock legos. I've decided to change the wheels to the Cragar Black D Window wheels, stock size (15X7, 6X5.5, 4"BS) and stick with the 31's. Wheels are here (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRR%2D3425760&FROM=MG) I take it off road but never get RADICAL with it (rock climbing or anything) but do want it to be a capable rig. At stock height, the 31's look like they take up a fair amount of the wheel wells, but I don't know that I've ever bottomed out on them. So, do I lift? If so, do I use something like the A/C kit or peice it together like 88Pathy has suggested in other topics? OR, do I just do the bushings all the way around and put some better shocks on? Thanks in advance, I await your opinions. :bow:

WAAAAYYYY Jealous!

Any idea on what model years to use for the 240 ALT's? I have an 88 and the alt is pretty pathetic. I would love to change it out to a higher output model with a ton of fuss.

This may sound like a stupid question but I've never been accused of being the brightest bulb in the batch. =) Is there a major difference between the auto locking hubs and manual ones?

[Hi just wanted to let you know if you need a tire rack I have one I will sell Reasonable] What year is it from and how much would you want for it? I have an 88 but it was rear ended at one point and the carrier is badly torqued out of shape.

Got It! Thanks Much.